Repair B18C or Use parts and build a B20???


Some really good points. I just got excited and said B20 lol.

But if it was me i would probably keep it as the B18C. Either modify that engine or change piston/rings. I know first hand its a good engine.
 
I prefer the idea of a high comp B18 rarther than a b20. but I'd say rings s300 and then see how you feel if your still not happy then perhaps it is time for a rebuild in a different direction. I should think a custom mapped s300 should keep you quite happy for a while at least though. You've made reasonable numbers so it cant be to much of a dog just needs a little tlc.
 
What a load of arse, Stock B20z block Buddyclub spec 3 cams, +6 inlet and -4 exhaust with plenty of space between P and V. and thats with a 15thou skim.

ITR cams on a B20 is fine no problems here either, and the fact the 10years after people have been building and revving B20's to in excess of 8K in stock form with no issues is laughable.

Why do people feel the need to rev to 9k? most B20's wont make peak past 8k on a stock block, and torque has long since died off, with compression and good cams peak is going to be circa 8500rpm, so again no need for super high revs as you just change a gear and use the torque.

Ask any one of my Customers who have had a B20 built fitted and tuned by US wether they would go back to a B16/18 the answer is NO everytime.

We have been building B20's for bout 5 years now and have a 100% reliability on all of them, nasp/Nitrous/turbo weve done them all and there ll still running.

B20's - Build them right, build them once.


Oh and if your a trackday nut then consider this, I had a full track prepped/Time attack CRX in 2007 running a 223bhp B18, i swapped to a B20b stock block with a BC3+ head set up power wise was 226bhp yet around Abingdon (our local track) i was 5 seconds quicker per lap, why?
Torque, the ability to hold a gear higher every where.

Daz
 
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I would not strip and fit new rings unless everything is within spec. You need to hone the bores to allow the new rings to seal and the piston to wall clearance on the B18 is pretty critical. Its not a lot more to get a rebore then you know you have a good base to start from. Sure you need new pistons but they are not that expensive from the States. Its up you of course.
 
SPek9 said:
Alot of B18s seem to use quite a bit of oil, just keep feeding her:D

My old dc2 had a full Honda service history, never smoked and made 205bhp and on a usual trackday I went through a litre of oil and that was 5w40 fully synthetic.

Have you tried using 10w40 semi synthetic yet?

If the engine is healthy and it still annoys you, as mentioned above^^a set of new oem ek9 pistons and rings would make a nice improvement! Use autodynamics-honda for them at a very good price, also the cheaper piston rings he sells are apparently just as good as oem honda and supposed to be made in the same place but are 1/2 the price
Click to expand...

Just put Castrol GTX 10W 40 in.... fingers crosed...

Boyle said:
What oil are you using? It has to be 10W40 semi. Thats what Honda says and thats what I put in my B16B and it doesnt use a drop
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Using Silkoline Pro S 5W 40 fully synthetic....

Daz81 said:
What a load of arse, Stock B20z block Buddyclub spec 3 cams, +6 inlet and -4 exhaust with plenty of space between P and V. and thats with a 15thou skim.

ITR cams on a B20 is fine no problems here either, and the fact the 10years after people have been building and revving B20's to in excess of 8K in stock form with no issues is laughable.

Why do people feel the need to rev to 9k? most B20's wont make peak past 8k on a stock block, and torque has long since died off, with compression and good cams peak is going to be circa 8500rpm, so again no need for super high revs as you just change a gear and use the torque.

Ask any one of my Customers who have had a B20 built fitted and tuned by US wether they would go back to a B16/18 the answer is NO everytime.

We have been building B20's for bout 5 years now and have a 100% reliability on all of them, nasp/Nitrous/turbo weve done them all and there ll still running.

B20's - Build them right, build them once.


Oh and if your a trackday nut then consider this, I had a full track prepped/Time attack CRX in 2007 running a 223bhp B18, i swapped to a B20b stock block with a BC3+ head set up power wise was 226bhp yet around Abingdon (our local track) i was 5 seconds quicker per lap, why?
Torque, the ability to hold a gear higher every where.

Daz
Click to expand...

How much we looking at for you to supply and map a B20Z with my B18C parts? :nerv:

Dunsy said:
F*CK a B...go K
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I fecking hate K series engines! :angry2:
 
I would say repair the b18c rather than B20 opnion. I had a b18c in my civic and it would beat my friends b20 hatch by a good 2 to 3 car lengths and that was stock
 
ijwhiteman said:
Just put Castrol GTX 10W 40 in.... fingers crosed...



Using Silkoline Pro S 5W 40 fully synthetic....



How much we looking at for you to supply and map a B20Z with my B18C parts? :nerv:



I fecking hate K series engines! :angry2:
Click to expand...


is it because my k20a is too fast for you!lol:blabla:
 
The idea of building the B20 bottom crossed your mind? Forged rods and pistons and you get a teenager engine. And no reliability issues with stock internals if that`s something that is holding you back. Huge torque from an engine that has no equal with a similar built from a B18C. Have a look at this store. Great prices and seller too. Many many recommendations from friends and myself. Build Your Block : Real Street Performance Engine Parts, Pistons Rods Cams Valvetrain and More
 
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