My EK4 - will update pics regularly~


RagingAngel said:
What brand is this Tri-Y header...if you don't know, what does it look like? Any chance you can post a pic?

I'm guessing you skipped out on the HDi comment I made above because you may have never heard of it. But this is where EK4 goes. We should all meet up there if possible just to chitchat. Two Canadians and one British Chinese amongst the Australian Chinese tuners:p

Address: Shop 65, G/F ,Wah Leng Ind Bldg, 15-21 Wong Chuk Yeung Street, Fotan,NT HONG KONG

TEL: +852 26901355

HDI

Be sure you invest in this:
http://www.ek9.org/forum/performance/3720-b-r-breather-tank-catch-can-kits.html

B-SERIES CATCH CAN DRAIN BACK KIT

$265 SHIPPED
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Thanks for the info and i'm definitely interest to go there for a run!

This is the Hytech replica Tri-Y header than i bought: Honda-Tech.com: Performance: ~~* TRI-Y HEADER SALE * Hytech Style 4-2-1 Production Header $400 SHIPPED~~

Btw, what's that for? Same purpose as the Cusco one?
 
There's a huge thread on honda-tech regarding the usefulness of this but I'll try and sum it up briefly at the expense of some accuracy.

Basically whenever you increase the compression or take the stock motor into VTEC it generates a lot of crankcase pressure. It is forced to vent through the tiny and rather insufficient stock PCV system.

This pressure has to go somewhere so it blows past your piston rings carrying crankcase vapor/oil with it leading to excessive oil burning.

With this vent in place, it will enable the car to rev more freely and reduce the pressure in the crankcase which also leads to reduction in oil consumption and reducing the fuel's oil dilution.

The cusco one merely catches all the excessive crankcase vapor/oil so it doesn't dump everywhere or back into your intake manifold. The way that it is configured, it will not bleed any pressure unless you drill holes at the top of it.

The header ought to do for your mild 2.0L build although there is a big tube version of it. It's unfortunate that the header hangs so low, but at the price, one could afford to buy two :p
 
Sounds good. But there is one concern as there is not much space left inside the hood and seems the tank is relatively big (bigger than the battery, is it?)

Seems the shop doesn't know how much CR with the mentioned aftermarket piston.. I doubt for buying this from them.

Any suggestion?



RagingAngel said:
There's a huge thread on honda-tech regarding the usefulness of this but I'll try and sum it up briefly at the expense of some accuracy.

Basically whenever you increase the compression or take the stock motor into VTEC it generates a lot of crankcase pressure. It is forced to vent through the tiny and rather insufficient stock PCV system.

This pressure has to go somewhere so it blows past your piston rings carrying crankcase vapor/oil with it leading to excessive oil burning.

With this vent in place, it will enable the car to rev more freely and reduce the pressure in the crankcase which also leads to reduction in oil consumption and reducing the fuel's oil dilution.

The cusco one merely catches all the excessive crankcase vapor/oil so it doesn't dump everywhere or back into your intake manifold. The way that it is configured, it will not bleed any pressure unless you drill holes at the top of it.

The header ought to do for your mild 2.0L build although there is a big tube version of it. It's unfortunate that the header hangs so low, but at the price, one could afford to buy two :p
Click to expand...
 
The tank that is pictured in the $400.00 setup is the same size as the battery but the kit that is selling for $265 is designed to fit next to the battery.

However, I'm not sure if that is possible since the kit was designed for a LHD car and I have never had a chance to look extensively under the hood of a RHD Honda.

If that shop doesn't know the CR - I would run the other way - FAST.

I suggest you use the RS machines cast pistons that I suggested. They are cheap, reliable and proven to make power when properly supported.

Honda-Tech.com: All Motor: Post your All motor RS Race Spec Pistons Builds!
 
Had a really busy week and finally i can study on the build again. RA, thanks for your info of the RS piston ! You know whether this product can be buy in HK? Or any near countries other than US?

Besides, any good news from your friend EK about a dyno run at HDI? Mind to help me get the price?

Definitely interest of a little meet!
 
Sorry Spoonson, I have been away really busy.

Tell you something, TR don't go there, they are ****.

D2 are very knowledgable in the B16's and also B18/B20 conversions, about the tuning I doubt they have the know how to tune though without a dyno. If you do wanna a run, go to HDI, though they are not open on weekends plus they will be moving to CHina soon with all the equipment, I know , bad news.

I did a 157WHP on a dyna pack with basic mods and Emanage shitty blue, which is good enough for the time being. I am not going to do anything more to the B16A because I am reaching the point of diminishing returns. A B18C will be in probably early next year with a Hondata.


Anyway, a dyno run costs around 850-900 bucks, let me know and I will hook you up with my mate at HDI.


If you do go B18 or B20 be very careful, you might end up with the car confiscated and heavy fine for each item you modified. The police do know what to look for and grinding the numbers do not work!

Brian
________
How to roll blunts
 
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Hi EK4!

No doubt TR is ****. Btw, for HDI, for $850-900 dyno run, are they going to play with the commander (may be a little adjustment on the fuel map) or is it only the price for the run? Definitely i will go there to see how much i can made now.

Understand the risk that i might face after the B18 or B20 conversion, i've been caught for inspection once and luckly, i was still running on B16 at that moment.





EK4_SIR said:
Sorry Spoonson, I have been away really busy.

Tell you something, TR don't go there, they are ****.

D2 are very knowledgable in the B16's and also B18/B20 conversions, about the tuning I doubt they have the know how to tune though without a dyno. If you do wanna a run, go to HDI, though they are not open on weekends plus they will be moving to CHina soon with all the equipment, I know , bad news.

I did a 157WHP on a dyna pack with basic mods and Emanage shitty blue, which is good enough for the time being. I am not going to do anything more to the B16A because I am reaching the point of diminishing returns. A B18C will be in probably early next year with a Hondata.


Anyway, a dyno run costs around 850-900 bucks, let me know and I will hook you up with my mate at HDI.


If you do go B18 or B20 be very careful, you might end up with the car confiscated and heavy fine for each item you modified. The police do know what to look for and grinding the numbers do not work!

Brian
Click to expand...
 
Spoonson said:
Hi EK4!

No doubt TR is ****. Btw, for HDI, for $850-900 dyno run, are they going to play with the commander (may be a little adjustment on the fuel map) or is it only the price for the run? Definitely i will go there to see how much i can made now.
Click to expand...


EK4's been busy modifying his intellect :p aka pursuing a master's degree, so I'll take the liberty of replying in his place for now.

Generally, they will accept a few changes on the commander if they're minor...add a little/subtract a little fuel.

Maybe it would be best if you waited till EK4 had time to go with you as well?
 
Thanks RA for helping out here..yeah I am back to school hahaha..
They are real nice guys maybe cos i know them quite well and sometimes they give me a hand in advicing what I should do in terms of tuning. I do the tuning myself cos if they start doing the mods they are going to charge around 2000 dollars for a tune up for the PFC. Do not expect amazing power out of a ECU tune, but driveablity will surely improve. TR gave me 167 S_HP (note the graph they gave you) thats's flywheel power, dyna pack is real WHP..I got 158WHP or so..

When I did the dyno without tune at HDI I got 145WHP which TR said I made 167HP.
A price worth paying for at HDI.
________
Web shows
 
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EK4_SIR said:
Thanks RA for helping out here..yeah I am back to school hahaha..
They are real nice guys maybe cos i know them quite well and sometimes they give me a hand in advicing what I should do in terms of tuning. I do the tuning myself cos if they start doing the mods they are going to charge around 2000 dollars for a tune up for the PFC. Do not expect amazing power out of a ECU tune, but driveablity will surely improve. TR gave me 167 S_HP (note the graph they gave you) thats's flywheel power, dyna pack is real WHP..I got 158WHP or so..

When I did the dyno without tune at HDI I got 145WHP which TR said I made 167HP.
A price worth paying for at HDI.
Click to expand...


Thanks RA and EK4!

HDI open on Saturday? Any chance you can bring me to their shop? Knowing that you are busy, but if you would go there in near future, mine to hook me up so i can go for a dyno run? Hope they would get a touch on +/- the fuel if possible :clap:

Really want to know the real whp i got now!
 
Spoonson said:
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Interior1.jpg


:clap:
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this car is SWEET !!!!!!
pretty similar to mine that im building
Keep up the great work
 
The balance is not the problem. Most Honda cranks and rotating assemblies will do fine up to 8500rpm.

The problem are the rods and in this specific case, it's the rod bolts. This was mentioned in the thread above. If you want the motor to survive, spend some more money on proper (forged) rods since they are stronger and will come with the proper rod bolts.

With a crank girdle in place, it shouldn't be much of an issue, unless your intention is to run some sort of endurance race. :p
 
any "under the hood" pictures, since its so nice, i bet the engine is too, =p
 
itr hatch said:
any "under the hood" pictures, since its so nice, i bet the engine is too, =p
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Thanks. I'll take a shot during the next dyno test. Hope it won't disappoint you, because wire is not tucked, the engine bay is not clean.

Thanks EK4_SIR brought me to HDI shop (Dynapack) yesterday to tune my Apexi Power FC, the powerband is totally raised! The best run, 163whp and 12.9 lbs/ft. I'll post a picture later.

And would like to share that, the shop put on a cold air intake (AEM style) for a test run, and came up with 170whp and 13.4lbs/ft!! There is 7whp and 0.5 lbs/ft increased!!! I never thought that this cold air intake make that big differences!!

:nice:
 
Be sure to post up the before/after dyno sheet.

Glad you had fun out there. Funny how "USA technology" works in Asia too. I remember having this discussion years ago when Hong Kong tuners would **** on all matters of cold intakes.

Tuning > Branding.
 
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