k20a in ek9


egshane

egshane

B18C ek9
Joined
Jun 7, 2009
Messages
2,248
hi guys and gals

im really looking into getting a k20a for my ek9, but cant seem to get the information i really want

first of all i want to no (if any one can tell from experience)

the price?
source of parts?
all ill need?
and also which b-pipe would i need to get a ek9 or ep3 or maybe something else or even custom?

if somebody could try and clear these things up for me would be so thankfull :)
 
On my iPhone so aplogoes if this reads bad

you would use you ek9 bipipe mate to flexi then kswap mani

cost, if you want budget maybe 4.5k but for good worthwhile one you talking 6
k easy if your not doing the work

performce would be excellent though circa 240bhp with bolt pms and map
 
thanks championship white very helpful

is it true that powersteering cannot be run with the k20 ?
 
It can be run, just a case of fitting it in I believe. There is a kit for it from Hybrid Racing as well as a few other options like an electric pump from an MR2.
 
You can use any exhaust system, cut down/flexi pipe. You can use a DC5 power steering pump, or plenty of other options.

Many threads on ek9.org about this now, hit that search. Drmikey of Rmotion (member here) can supply you all you need and will also install everything.

K20A2 engine/box 2k or K20A engine/box/ecu 3k estimate. (depending on history/mileage/condition)
DC2 rack/subframe/forks/LCA + DC2 BOLTS.
EKK2 mounts or other make.
Hasport axles (choice)
K20 swap manifold - (choice) some of these make things easier than others.
Conversion harness.
Fuel line kit/fuel rail/FPR.
Shifter cables/shifter (mountkit - optional).

Parts above 2.k estimate.

+ fitting unless you do it yourself.

Other parts that 'maybe' needed - new clutch, gearbox bearings etc, baffled sump, ABS re-routing, various consumables.

There are so many options & add ons that can vary the price, manifold choice, engine etc.

Total budget - 4.5 - 8k estimate.
 
If you have patience, you can find a nice K20 for way less than 3k. Also, lots of parts can be fixed by yourself instead of buying the off-the-shelf options, which will be most of the times the most expensive option. I've looked into it and for a decent, budget but quality swap, take at least 5,5k into account.
 
This is why I have placed 'history/mileage/condition' in brackets, when I was looking I saw a K20A engine/box/ecu for £1200, of course they are out there, you pay your money and take your chance.

Again all prices are estimates, due to where/how you get/make parts/route taken etc. Looking into it and doing it are very different, much depends on what you want from the swap & how YOU want it done, the cost can escalate easily.
 
Yeah, but a grand can be saved by having patience and just waiting for that one engine that meets your demands but costs a lot less :) Just saying for the topic starter.
 
JT, your just stating what I have already posted, an estimate is an estimate.

CW - the wiring is being done today apparently, may know more tomorrow, had some major delays with the manifold situation, this is now sorted and I will explain in my thread I had up a while back.
 
By doing the swap do you lose ur AC as n does the car vibrates too much cause of the mounts n the wipers sometimes go off without you turning them on anyone knows if there's any way around these issues?
 
You dont have to lose your AC, its just more work/hassle to keep it. There is a huge amount of vibration with the mounts - but this does not affect the wipers.
 
An idea would be to get the ek k20 for sale on here and swap it over to your ek9 shell and sell your b-series parts on.
 
The Ac is it kit that's like 800 anyone knows the name n is it recommended for a daily drive car or is the vibration intolerable
 
haitch said:
You dont have to lose your AC, its just more work/hassle to keep it. There is a huge amount of vibration with the mounts - but this does not affect the wipers.
Click to expand...

Which rating of Inserts did you go for Haitch?
 
I think the street version U62A, the dash leaps up and down, the doors rattle, with buzzing noises and on the move the rearview is unreadable.

Platanocivic - not sure what you mean about the AC 'kit'? I ran Spoon mounts previously, these Hasport ones have much more vibration but its part of the swap and I can live with it.
 
haitch said:
I think the street version U62A, the dash leaps up and down, the doors rattle, with buzzing noises and on the move the rearview is unreadable.
Click to expand...

Wow I didn't think it would be that bad with the street inserts! I've got the 88A's Race inserts installed! Knew the 88A's would be pretty bad for vibration but sounds like they are going to be a complete nightmare going by what you say the streets are like. Got a set of 72A's aswell just incase.
 
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