k20 swap into an ek


EK9dan said:
But how fast your getting to a particular speed normally determines how quickly you will travel a certain distance.
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ok so just because your tach climbs faster doesnt mean that its actually happening. i dont understand what your trying to argue that your car accelerates fatser than a k swap?
 
sek2dts@aol.com said:
ok so just because your tach climbs faster doesnt mean that its actually happening. i dont understand what your trying to argue that your car accelerates fatser than a k swap?
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Argueing? :nono: Im discussing, exactly what this forum is for.

Im not claiming anything, and im not saying the tacho climbs faster, im saying the speedo climbs faster/if not very similar which is a good enough indication of how quick a car is. Its always been a good comparison amongst cars and always proved to be fairly accurate. I mean timing from 1 speed to another.

A car that is supposed to be 100BHP more on the same shell that is pathetic. If my car was running another 100BHP on a N/A set up teh speedo would shoot up alot quicker then now! Fact, as the car would be accelerating faster.

Im not impressed with that at all for what its made to be. In fact i will almost bet my months wage that is not 300BHP. I would expect that from a stock K20.
 
EK9dan said:
Argueing? :nono: Im discussing, exactly what this forum is for.

Im not claiming anything, and im not saying the tacho climbs faster, im saying the speedo climbs faster/if not very similar which is a good enough indication of how quick a car is. Its always been a good comparison amongst cars and always proved to be fairly accurate. I mean timing from 1 speed to another.

A car that is supposed to be 100BHP more on the same shell that is pathetic. If my car was running another 100BHP on a N/A set up teh speedo would shoot up alot quicker then now! Fact, as the car would be accelerating faster.

Im not impressed with that at all for what its made to be. In fact i will almost bet my months wage that is not 300BHP. I would expect that from a stock K20.
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sorry i use the word argue but i really do mean discuss didnt mean any offense. the way your trying to compare is stupid. go look up some time slips people have for 1/4 mile racing. compare a 200whp b18c in a ek and a k20a in a ek's time slips. the k is gonna reach the 1/8 mile faster with a higher trap speed. i know for fact cause i have owned both! my k swap use to eat any b swap unless we were close in power range. your probably not impressed by them cause u never been in one. after u drive one you"ll change your mind real fast. dont compare how fast your speedo climbs in your car to someone elses that just silly.
 
from experience i can tell the following. An eg b18 seriously tuned vs an eg k20 with exhaust and hondata. The b18 was in front just a little but it was mounted with cams, high compression, revving almost 10.000rpms, special tranny hitting top speed at 800m sticky tyres and many others (stripped interior etc.) This b18c was the winner but the k20 was almost stock and with stock transmission. The race was only for 800m or something like that. What i mean is that it would have to be a seriously tuned b18c combined with a lightweight chassis and transmission mods in order to be a little faster than a light tuned k20 swap.
 
sek2dts@aol.com said:
sorry i use the word argue but i really do mean discuss didnt mean any offense. the way your trying to compare is stupid. go look up some time slips people have for 1/4 mile racing. compare a 200whp b18c in a ek and a k20a in a ek's time slips. the k is gonna reach the 1/8 mile faster with a higher trap speed. i know for fact cause i have owned both! my k swap use to eat any b swap unless we were close in power range. your probably not impressed by them cause u never been in one. after u drive one you"ll change your mind real fast. dont compare how fast your speedo climbs in your car to someone elses that just silly.
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Fair dooz man, i mean youve owned the both so you will know more about it then i do.
 
RagingAngel said:
Because the EKK1 places the motor too low and too far forward, you will experience axles binding and maybe snapping depending on how low you dump the car.

This is not a well engineered option, but the EKK2 is better in that regard because it enables you to put the motor in a better position and also slightly higher so it helps those who intend to drive it on the street.

Full out race teams will opt for dry sump enabling them to put the motor almost exactly to the point where the axles are straight and true.
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I dont plan to dump the car, maybe an inch or less off the gaurds from tyre. Do you think alignment will go well with hasport axles?
 
sek2dts@aol.com said:
i tried using hasport k swap axles cause they were fairly priced those were the biggest pieces of garbage. i had to get a set of oem dc5 and a set of ek9 size axles and mix the 2 together.

edit- also if u want your shifter box to fit under your stock center console your gonna need the karcepts shifter kit.
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Great points! I'm gonna keep this in mind incase I run into them. What exactly happended with the hasport axles?

Ek9dan: I think your back to where you were with the B16B vs B18C. That k20 video was pretty bad compared to what Ive been in. The difference between jdm k20a vs B18C is exactly like B16B vs B18C in your experience.
 
jugbugz said:
Great points! I'm gonna keep this in mind incase I run into them. What exactly happended with the hasport axles?

Ek9dan: I think your back to where you were with the B16B vs B18C. That k20 video was pretty bad compared to what Ive been in. The difference between jdm k20a vs B18C is exactly like B16B vs B18C in your experience.
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As said buddy, fair dooz, I'll stay quiet until hopefully I get to experience one or race one. You do have points,I'm just not impressed with that paticular one. As you say that looks poor compared to the one you went in.
 
EK9dan said:
when you say stock what do you mean?

My speedo is of my B18CR running 176WHP with just header/exhaust/flyweel. Pretty much stock engine.

I know what you mean but the power through the gear doesnt look any faster. And with that much more power stated and on a much superior engine you would see the major difference.
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you need to see it and experience it to beleive it,, K Swap Ek would eat tuned B18C EK for breakfast we have done a K20 DC2 and teh performance is phenominal :drive:

a video is no comparison.............
 
Nice project olly! I really wana experience it now. Currently i completely eat the UK spec EP3 with the K20 200BHP. Leave them behind. So im inclined to see how The K20a will perform in a EP3 more so in an EK9 shell which weighs even less.

what quarter mile can you expect from a stock K20a engine in an EK9 shell with oviously bolt on mods and KPro as i believe you need to use this?
 
Depends on the K20 as well. The JDM EP3 K20 has 215PS compared to UK EP3 200PS. And jdm DC5R has 220PS. Gear ratios varys on the engine as well, but most of them running 4.7FD, the FD2R has 5.08FD and slightly more serious gear ratios for acceleration. Since the K20 has an extra gear, the ratios are quite close.

Huge difference between the lot in a light car.

EK9 JDM dc5 K20a 1/4 mile is 12.8sec. Thats with appropriate height, damper, tyre pressure and zero camber settings. K-pro, headers, exhuast, and intake are necessity items to get one in your EK.
 
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jugbugz said:
Great points! I'm gonna keep this in mind incase I run into them. What exactly happended with the hasport axles?
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both the cv joints on each axle where just so loose it felt like they were constructed of rubber inside. there wasnt any loose parts or anything thing it was just incredibly weak. the spindle part of the axle that goes threw the hub snapped of the first time i went to the track on my second run. when i ran the hybrid oem axles i never had any problems and i was pretty rough on them. if u plan to drag race alot i would look into switching transmissions or replacing some of the guts. the k20a 4th gear is so short u have to shift to 5th in the 1/4 if your on 15's every time.
 
ok i have an EK civic and i'm really wanting to do a K20 swap any advice from anyone?
 
I've owned a k20 in a ek. The swap isn't hard at all. But like everyone else has said u do need mods for everything to work. Ie header jumper, harness, ecu, mounts(obviously). I ran with a Rcrew setup. And used hasport mount kit. R crew jumper harness, r crew I'M, Rcrew header and hondata k pro. I soon later went with AEM ecu for more in depth programming. But no matterr what anyone says k series is the future and makes big numbers. As for axles being junk. Just buy quality axles. I had hasport axles and they have never had a problem. The only downfall to the kswap is money. It does get expensive! Back breaking! But k series is a hole different type of power. I'm sure fellow k owners can agree that b seeries is just so different. Once u have a k in a EG or EK its endless. Especially for NA. For 5 to 6k you could be in the 280-340 whp NA mark. Which is remarkable.

If you have money then go for it. If ur tight on ur budget, stick to bseries.

And if anyone is interested in going K, I have a hook up down at Rcrew on k20a's mounts, IM's, headers everything u need for K. Let me know.


Cheers
 
I've owned a k20 in a ek. The swap isn't hard at all. But like everyone else has said u do need mods for everything to work. Ie header jumper, harness, ecu, mounts(obviously). I ran with a Rcrew setup. And used hasport mount kit. R crew jumper harness, r crew I'M, Rcrew header and hondata k pro. I soon later went with AEM ecu for more in depth programming. But no matterr what anyone says k series is the future and makes big numbers. As for axles being junk. Just buy quality axles. I had hasport axles and they have never had a problem. The only downfall to the kswap is money. It does get expensive! Back breaking! But k series is a hole different type of power. I'm sure fellow k owners can agree that b seeries is just so different. Once u have a k in a EG or EK its endless. Especially for NA. For 5 to 6k you could be in the 280-340 whp NA mark. Which is remarkable.

If you have money then go for it. If ur tight on ur budget, stick to bseries.

And if anyone is interested in going K, I have a hook up down at Rcrew on k20a's mounts, IM's, headers everything u need for K. Let me know.


Cheers
 
This is good info I own an ek9
and I'm considering doing Kswap
grateful of u all sharing your
knowledge about this
 
Hi can anyone tell what i would need to do to put a k20 into my ek9 ? wat needs changing ?? ? ?
 
Re: k20 swap into an ek
Hi can anyone tell what i would need to do to put a k20 into my ek9 ? wat needs changing ?? ? ?


Hi, Ok you will have to change a lot of things man.
I have done my K swap 1 month ago (K20a JDM into EK) so I can tell you what you really need.

_ EG or DC2 subframe, fork for the suspension...

_Hasport EKK2 engine Mount + Axles

_Hasport or Hybrid racing Harness

_Clutch Line

_Complete New fuel line system with Fuel regulator+Fuel pressure gauge + Fuel Rail

_New Intake system (home made with K&N filter or AEM CAI..... whatever depend on what you want)

_If this is en EP3 K20 JDM you will need new Shift cables from RSX, OEM Honda Linkage Pin for RSX-S Shifter Cables and Rsx Shifter or aftermarket. If this is a DC5 K20a don't worry about it.

_If you want a nice look for shifter (put back all your plastik ect...) you will need a Karcepts Shifter Mounting Kit
Or if you don't want to cut your beautiful chassis go to Hybrid Racing K Swap Bolt-In Short Shifter. No need to cut and direct bolt on (a little bit expensive but if you have an EP3 engine go for it)

_OEM Honda Thermo Unit

_OEM Honda Coolant Switch

_Radiator Hose insert

_If you want PS and A/C go to hybridracing.com they are very good, and nice products

_Header (whatever you want depend on your budget Profab, Hytech, Skunk2. Mine is a RCREW many people have it)

_Exhaust modification coz the header is behind you will need to cut.
If you want more power and don't care about the noise go 3" exhaust. I put mine yesterday and I see a lot of gain TQ and HP (I was in 2,75").

_Kpro if you want more power.If you want to stay stock and if this is a K20a2 from US becareful with the immo system you will need to bypass it, if it is a JDM no need it. Jdm Ecu is good for starting but many people who do K swap want more Hp so go KPRO or AEM EMS.

_Some small details as the Radiator mount and reserve tank relocation

I think I have forget something....mmmhh.. Oh yes some mecanics weekends that is a lot of job if you do it alone. I made it in maybe 2 weekends, slowly but carefully.

Go K man you will don't regret.
 
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