k20 swap into an ek


This what you need for the conversion....

Engine mounts
DC Headers
Shift Linkage
Axles
Wiring
All these parts you can get with Hasport.com

ECU
Air Intake

Regards
 
its an expensive buisness theres a guy called jon on southwestcivics hes got a k20 in his eg coupe done by hond-r cost £7.5 k i think!!
 
olly ek9 said:
yep we have done one into an integra dc2, just waiting on the hondata kpro to turn up so we can tune it,,

not too bad of a conversion but its hard to beleive how much money it costs once all teh parts start mounting up, £££££££££££££££££££££££££££££

think so far we are 7.5k on parts including buying teh engine and box,,

cheaper to buy a DC5 in the long run
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Theres a DC 5 on carzone.ie for €7,000 tidy lookin aswel
 
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matt o said:
its an expensive buisness theres a guy called jon on southwestcivics hes got a k20 in his eg coupe done by hond-r cost £7.5 k i think!!
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I dont see why people do this, they could have bought a nice EP3 for that price.

I would love a K20 EG, who wouldnt lol.....But its too pricey, 5k + for a conversion? Ide rather go and buy a DC2, EK9 or an older EP3.


G
 
I think an EK9 with K20 would crush an EP3 ;) Nevertheless I also find it too pricey for what you get. Few hp more than a B18c (can be 20 more, but a JDM K20 is even more expensive) and an extra gear but no LSD (again, unless it's JDM). How much power can you get out of a B18 for that kinda money? I'm not saying it's a bad swap but it's certainly not cost efficient for what you get, there are cheaper ways to get that power.

Edit: oh shite, didn't see I was kicking, sorry :p
 
_JT said:
I think an EK9 with K20 would crush an EP3 ;) Nevertheless I also find it too pricey for what you get. Few hp more than a B18c (can be 20 more, but a JDM K20 is even more expensive) and an extra gear but no LSD (again, unless it's JDM). How much power can you get out of a B18 for that kinda money? I'm not saying it's a bad swap but it's certainly not cost efficient for what you get, there are cheaper ways to get that power.

Edit: oh shite, didn't see I was kicking, sorry :p
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if it`s eudm then it`s the same power as b18c. and for that money you get a great ride. quicker and can spend money on handling as well.
 
RagingAngel said:
well that's nice and concise....

In order to avoid snapping axles every other week, you need to get the Hasport EKK2 engine mount set. This does involve removing the entire front cross member and replacing it with one from an EG6/DC2. You will also need the steering rack.

The cost gets high because you need to get a proper header which starts around $700-1000 usd and will likely end up being $1000-1200usd by the time it reaches Scotland with all the shipping/taxes.

Hondata K-pro is not necessary but is desirable. After all the money spent, I'd think you'd wish for as much power as possible.

K20s have shown good power with the use of an exhaust up to 3.0in in diameter. That is another cost to consider.

With a motor where you're basically taking the word of the salvage yard for an approximation in mileage, some opt to replace things like the clutch/flywheel to start and perform other maintenance related fixes.

You also need a new clutch line, a hybrid harness and custom axles. A new radiator is a good idea too if you intend to hit the track as is a baffled oil pan. When it's all said and done and running well and had the ECU remapped. Count on spending $10k usd at the end of the day.
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Any reason besides weight distribution on reccomending the EKK2 mounts? I dont know if every EK9 owner would swap out their sub frame for an EG/DC2.

Using the EKK1 mounts, you can retain the subframe and rack. Whats your opinion?
 
I'll be doing a K20 swap myself soon this year. I'll take many pics and see if I can do a write up for ek9.org since most of us have the same car.

For those who havent experienced K20a EK/EG. Think of a really fast young n healthy jdm B18C in a stripped EG with Mugen breathing mods and tune..... well, its still much faster, huge pulling torque in any RPM!

Someone asked why its so expensive?

Think about it... try putting a Toyota engine into your honda and see how much work it takes to make it fit. Swapping a Bseries over a Bseries is just pretty damn obvious
 
Gerry at performanceTek can do you a K20 swap into an EK without issues, but it is expensive
 
RagingAngel said:
well that's nice and concise....

In order to avoid snapping axles every other week, you need to get the Hasport EKK2 engine mount set. This does involve removing the entire front cross member and replacing it with one from an EG6/DC2. You will also need the steering rack.

The cost gets high because you need to get a proper header which starts around $700-1000 usd and will likely end up being $1000-1200usd by the time it reaches Scotland with all the shipping/taxes.

Hondata K-pro is not necessary but is desirable. After all the money spent, I'd think you'd wish for as much power as possible.

K20s have shown good power with the use of an exhaust up to 3.0in in diameter. That is another cost to consider.

With a motor where you're basically taking the word of the salvage yard for an approximation in mileage, some opt to replace things like the clutch/flywheel to start and perform other maintenance related fixes.

You also need a new clutch line, a hybrid harness and custom axles. A new radiator is a good idea too if you intend to hit the track as is a baffled oil pan. When it's all said and done and running well and had the ECU remapped. Count on spending $10k usd at the end of the day.
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^best explanation in thread. if your gonna do one of theses swaps its not a good idea to try to do it cheap as possible. k-pro in my opinion is a must cause the jdm ecus have a speed limter and a neutral rev limiter plus k pro is where your making all your power. i tried using hasport k swap axles cause they were fairly priced those were the biggest pieces of garbage. i had to get a set of oem dc5 and a set of ek9 size axles and mix the 2 together. add a fuel rail, universal fuel pressure regulator, custom fuel line in the engine bay to the list cause u def need those and a walbro pump isnt a bad idea. new clutch is a must if your running a good bolt on combo. i have tried using stock and its a no go.
edit- also if u want your shifter box to fit under your stock center console your gonna need the karcepts shifter kit.
 
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jugbugz said:
Any reason besides weight distribution on reccomending the EKK2 mounts? I dont know if every EK9 owner would swap out their sub frame for an EG/DC2.

Using the EKK1 mounts, you can retain the subframe and rack. Whats your opinion?
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Because the EKK1 places the motor too low and too far forward, you will experience axles binding and maybe snapping depending on how low you dump the car.

This is not a well engineered option, but the EKK2 is better in that regard because it enables you to put the motor in a better position and also slightly higher so it helps those who intend to drive it on the street.

Full out race teams will opt for dry sump enabling them to put the motor almost exactly to the point where the axles are straight and true.
 
jugbugz said:
I'll be doing a K20 swap myself soon this year. I'll take many pics and see if I can do a write up for ek9.org since most of us have the same car.

For those who havent experienced K20a EK/EG. Think of a really fast young n healthy jdm B18C in a stripped EG with Mugen breathing mods and tune..... well, its still much faster, huge pulling torque in any RPM!

Someone asked why its so expensive?

Think about it... try putting a Toyota engine into your honda and see how much work it takes to make it fit. Swapping a Bseries over a Bseries is just pretty damn obvious
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If you did a write up would be excellent!!!! In my country such swaps are still "young" and many still experiment with it. But to be honest i find the K series "wimps" next to B series and weaker. I think because they`re more quiet and civilized, but have large potential i admit.
 
I think that k20 swaps are superior in any way. First of all you get ivtec engines, newest honda technology and lower mileage engines. Then 200cc more are very important as you almost have 20kg of torque combined with a dream transmission. 5 gears can't beat 6 which are nicely put in terms of distance. Ep3 gears are nicely matched getting you to the powerband all the time. The most important is that the b18 cannot be compared with the k20 engine when it comes to simple bolt ons. k20 with quality intake, exhaust, hondata ecu etc can reach 240+hps easily. A b18c with the same mods cannot go more than 210-5. If you add a street cam to a k20 and a higher compression (no more than 12) then you get 240+ whp..To reach 250whp with a b18c is a very hard task in terms of money, everyday reliability and driveability.. On the contrary you don't lose these things on a 250whp k20 engine.
Furthermore, when you do a k20 swap to an ek/eg/ef chassis you need specific parts that will give you more power than stock. You need a specifically designed header, new exhaust, you'll use a hondata and an intake (it delivers more power to an ek/eg engine bay). All these give you 30-35 more hps easily.

There are drawbacks as well. It's expensive, in many countries this swap is illegal and cannot be declared to the state in any way, you need very careful suspension, and braking mods in order to be safe and capable handling wise.
 
divinu said:
take a look at this. maybe it will give an indication of what ur outcome could be.

YouTube - EK9 K20 standing start Icetronix
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Im not trying to be funny here but have a look at this K20 EK video compared to a recent one i made and posted up on here.

Is it me or does B18c EK accelerate faster then this K20 EK?
Time the acceleration. 100MPH my clock, 160KPH his clock Both cars hit 60MPH-100MPH in around 6 seconds.

Im sure mine appears faster, and if not, that certainly isnt justifying 250-300BHP as i only made 176WHP(say around 210bhp fly)

For the expense of this conversion i would like to see more improvement. Give us your opinions.

Im not saying they are not better, this has just puzzled me a bit.

This is mine:
 
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saxophonias said:
is this a stock speedo? To tell you the truth you cannot tell just by looking to different videos. Weight matters, driving ability bla bla bla...
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when you say stock what do you mean?

My speedo is of my B18CR running 176WHP with just header/exhaust/flyweel. Pretty much stock engine.

I know what you mean but the power through the gear doesnt look any faster. And with that much more power stated and on a much superior engine you would see the major difference.
 
EK9dan said:
when you say stock what do you mean?

My speedo is of my B18CR running 176WHP with just header/exhaust/flyweel. Pretty much stock engine.

I know what you mean but the power through the gear doesnt look any faster. And with that much more power stated and on a much superior engine you would see the major difference.
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why are u comparing how fast your speedo and rpm needles climb who cares. its who gets from 1 point to another faster.
 
sek2dts@aol.com said:
why are u comparing how fast your speedo and rpm needles climb who cares. its who gets from 1 point to another faster.
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But how fast your getting to a particular speed normally determines how quickly you will travel a certain distance.
 
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