K20 running problems HELP


ijwhiteman said:
£1000 to repay so far.
If its only the gasket and not a cracked head
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A grand for replacing head gasket???? Is it not going to be cheaper to get a new engine and sell this one for spares?
 
It engine out job from what i hear. And we just don't have the time or ability (Tools) to do it engine out.
 
oifovo said:
A grand for replacing head gasket???? Is it not going to be cheaper to get a new engine and sell this one for spares?
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I have bought engine before and this did me no favours either. I would rather repair this as it is 71,000 miles. It was running lovely.

My real concern is why? What if it happens again?
 
Sorry to hear Ian, not having much luck with the new purchase. I highly doubt the engine would need to come out to do the headgasket/change head. If you remove intake manifold you'll have plenty of room to pull the engine forward when you remove a couple of mounts. It's not that bad of a job to do, we could help you here on the forum to get it done yourself...
 
Repairing it is the right thing to do. If the engines coming out i'd have all the bores checked out for roundness and tapper. It maybe a good idea to overbore. I'm just thinking if its overheated in the past...
 
Vtec6000 said:
Sorry to hear Ian, not having much luck with the new purchase. I highly doubt the engine would need to come out to do the headgasket/change head. If you remove intake manifold you'll have plenty of room to pull the engine forward when you remove a couple of mounts. It's not that bad of a job to do, we could help you here on the forum to get it done yourself...
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Terrible time of it at the moment. In the last 3 weeks we have put £2500 on the credit car. Not good times.

I genuinly don't think i have the time or tooling to do this job right now. The more i hear the more it sounds like an arse on these to do. If it was my B18 i wouldn't hesitate. £560 i have been quoted for labour and collection of the car....

Rich777 said:
Repairing it is the right thing to do. If the engines coming out i'd have all the bores checked out for roundness and tapper. It maybe a good idea to overbore. I'm just thinking if its overheated in the past...
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I doubt it though because the compression has is very good. Tom at TGM has been helping me out today and he said it is absolutely fine. I definitely can not afford both time and money for machine work to be carried out.
 
Whiteminge!! Mate I have done a k20 head job before, it's not an engine out job. It's actually quite straight forward. You don't need any special tools just some patience! I'll do it for ya, all I will say is replace the chain tensioner at the same time. They give troubles :)

ijwhiteman said:
Terrible time of it at the moment. In the last 3 weeks we have put £2500 on the credit car. Not good times.

I genuinly don't think i have the time or tooling to do this job right now. The more i hear the more it sounds like an arse on these to do. If it was my B18 i wouldn't hesitate. £560 i have been quoted for labour and collection of the car....



I doubt it though because the compression has is very good. Tom at TGM has been helping me out today and he said it is absolutely fine. I definitely can not afford both time and money for machine work to be carried out.
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OK...

Opinions on this please...

Checked loads today and thought screw it, it has oil, it has coolant lets chuck £15 fuel in and see what happens. Cleaned oil cap off and went for a spin. Drove approx 50 miles in daylight gave it plentyly of beans and limiter. No smoke, heaters where always hot, temp gauge stayed consistent... Still a little snatchy off to on throttle at times. Not had any miss fire since the very wet night the problem started. Also found VTEC6000 is absolutely right won't rev past 5500 at a stand still but revs fine rolling out of gear all the way to 8+.

So got back and checked my oil looks fine level is ok and not used any water. (only what the neck of the bottle would top the rad back up).

So mega confused... May seriously owe the guy I bought t from an apology. Think the mayo on the cap was prely from all the cold starting. Fairly sure the "lost oil" is just where (stupid me) compared cold to hot level...

What's your thoughts? Other than me being a twat!

Any serious head problem would have shown up surely?

The slight snatch throttle has been explained as OEM ECU running cold air AEM and cat back...

Going to fill her up, top oil up and go for a proper drive tomorrow.
 
If the head / gasket was gone , mayo would have appeared on the cap after a hard drive instead of condensation being burnt off ;)
 
No way there would be no water loss after 50 mile drive if the HG was gone I think, loosing water along with heaters not working is a sure sign of a HG failure. Another test you can do is start up the car when its cold and check the hose that leads to the radiator, if it becomes rock hard quickly it would suggest HG is gone (because you would get engine pressurizing up the whole cooling system), if it only goes hard after what the engine has fully warmed up it should be OK (now its hard because the hot water expands and that increases pressure). I would still check the TPS, I had the exact symptoms on my old Rover 25, the car was jerky to drive, it would be worst at certain revs than others. My friend who's a mechanic suggested it looked like a sensor fault of some kind - so I started disconnecting one sensor a time - the ECU then uses a preset average value if there's no feed from the particular sensor - until it stopped - it was the TPS, or so it seemed. Got a new one - and it did not help! It turned out one of the cables in the loom broke and as the engine vibrated the sensor was working intermittently. I just reconnected the cable and that was it!
 
ijwhiteman said:
OK...

Opinions on this please...

Checked loads today and thought screw it, it has oil, it has coolant lets chuck £15 fuel in and see what happens. Cleaned oil cap off and went for a spin. Drove approx 50 miles in daylight gave it plentyly of beans and limiter. No smoke, heaters where always hot, temp gauge stayed consistent... Still a little snatchy off to on throttle at times. Not had any miss fire since the very wet night the problem started. Also found VTEC6000 is absolutely right won't rev past 5500 at a stand still but revs fine rolling out of gear all the way to 8+.

So got back and checked my oil looks fine level is ok and not used any water. (only what the neck of the bottle would top the rad back up).

So mega confused... May seriously owe the guy I bought t from an apology. Think the mayo on the cap was prely from all the cold starting. Fairly sure the "lost oil" is just where (stupid me) compared cold to hot level...

What's your thoughts? Other than me being a twat!

Any serious head problem would have shown up surely?

The slight snatch throttle has been explained as OEM ECU running cold air AEM and cat back...

Going to fill her up, top oil up and go for a proper drive tomorrow.
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Good news potentiaaly then mate! On your drive out tomorrow feel free to pop over. Will be in all day.
 
Standard k20s my mates have all ran have never gone past 5500rpm standin so I wouldn't worry about that mate in sure its an ecu pre programmed safety feature
 
Check TPS, its a common fail - either check the voltage across the wiper (if connected to the loom and ignition on) or just check resistance (if not connected).

The coils have a habit of corroding and the signal dropping out.

Also check your IACV is bolted on tight (they can come lose and rattle and let in unwanted air.
 
Check your battery earth lead is on and properly tight, I had similar issues with a poor earth on to the battery earth terminal, it was ****ing horrible to drive and felt like a lot more serious of a problem
 
Its starting to sound a bit different now Ian. I agree with drmikey.
 
Thanks for everyone's in put.

drmikey said:
Check TPS, its a common fail - either check the voltage across the wiper (if connected to the loom and ignition on) or just check resistance (if not connected).

The coils have a habit of corroding and the signal dropping out.

Also check your IACV is bolted on tight (they can come lose and rattle and let in unwanted air.
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I'm not sure what you mean by checking the voltage across the wiper? I tried to measure the voltage on the TPS yesterday but could not get in there properly so gave up.

Which one is the IACV...
 
ijwhiteman said:
Thanks for everyone's in put.



I'm not sure what you mean by checking the voltage across the wiper? I tried to measure the voltage on the TPS yesterday but could not get in there properly so gave up.

Which one is the IACV...
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In lay mans terms he means the signal wire back to the ecu , use the battery earth pole for the earth lead.

You will need to backprobe the connector , use a fine sowing needle and slide it into the connector by where the wire enters untill you pick up a voltage.
When you are finished put a dab of superglue on the hole the needle left :nice:
 
Throttle response seems to be a common problem!

car feels jumpy/jerky at low speed???

Just want to understand why the missfire the other night.

I assume very wet damp cold conditions and very low fuel.... Maybe dragged a bit of rubbish from the tank...
 
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