Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


Checked engine bay over and no leaks that I could see.
Removed over 1metre of unessacary oil pressure tubing for the gauge, hoping that might help response time on the gauge.
Had to cut some clearance into the diffuser, since I re welded the exhausts(bigger centre silencer for noise limits) I've managed to weld it at a very slight kink and it was knocking against the diffuser making a racket.
Car had a quick clean(will do a full clean later this week) also removed most of the stickers on the car, was in danger of becoming "scene" I had soo many on there!
Looks much cleaner now. Got my work cut out to bring my OEM wheels back to life, the RC6 have done a proper job on them!
Enjoying working on other parts of the car for a change, these jobs are easy to notice what you've done and you get more sense of achievement that putting in engines that keep failing lol

Full alignment will be soon aswell, was going to corner weight the car but I'm not too sure what kind of ground clearance I'll have at the ring. So don't want it all set up for me to then need to raise it while I'm there!
 
Good to see things might be going right for a change bud :)

I've just had some RC6 land today..I'm expecting good things from them
 
I do love your no nonsense approach Jesse. Getting on with it and getting the new lump in straight away.

Fingers crossed its all good from now on :)
 
Romain is fully book all May, the mans gold dust this month lol
Says he'll try and squeeze me in if he can as its really just a check up, everything is the same as it was with the other build in terms of the numbers that matter, the engine is identical but made with weaker parts.
The only part to have been modified is the wastegate is now plumbed back into the downpipe.

Paul, I really like them on the track. I used to be weak on the pedal and suffered if the pedal feel changed at all.
Got these pads and never looked back.

I'll be honest, I got to hand it too my parents for loaning me the cash to get the b18c4. It's soul destroying work putting in engine after engine to keep having them fail.....
Even worse seeing the car degrade before your eyes while your stuck with no cash or time to keep on top of the smaller things. Can finally get it back into shape now, she's never been a looker(well maybe 4-5years ago). But at her worst afew weeks back.
 
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Yeah your right. A lot of people don't see it like that.
Going to do a compression test on the engine abit later, doesn't feel as punchy as the forged block on low boost. Will see what the numbers say. Going to run it anyway for now as it gathered speed well enough....
 
Took the 9 for a much needed alignment today. I've had the rack in parts since the last one and I wanted to pull the camber back from the sheet I got from previous owner.
Went to elite direct in rainham, decent service from them and the car was set up on the brand new hunter machine they've got(latest version)


I set the tracking at the front myself with a track ace home alignment kit, was surprised to see I was just 1/8th of a mm(yes 1/8th) off of perfect so the home kit certainly works!

The car didn't have as much camber as I thought on the front but more than I was expecting on the rear


The new settings are 2.5degrees front and 2 rear(just like the b18 ek9)
After a chat with the tech I decided to give toe out on the front a go. So went for alittle -.05 each side, according to the internet I should see better turn in but a lose of stability on the straights. We'll see how this effects the car over the bumps at the ring. Should be ok.
Rear toe I had set to 0. I had toe out before and it was ok but I've started braking to apex alot more than before so hopefully this is just right for keeping the back from steeping out under harsh braking but sill loose enough to get the car turned.


One of the jobs that I've left for ages finally done!
 
I'd like to hear how you like the front toe out, it's something I've been thinking about as well.
 
From theory and past experience I felt like front toe out made the car want to push on, whereas rear toe out helped the car turn in. Interested in where you saw that front toe out helps with turn in?
 
Pretty much everywhere rippu.
F1technical
10-tenths
Some pretty technical forums where people know their ****.
I did abit of a geek Google session on the toe setting on FWD racecars, although this isn't a race car the same theory applies.
I've experimented with rear toe out before, worked as planned if you use enough of it but I want the rear under control whilst I gain confidence trail braking, I've only just started to use that technique so adding too much toe out at the rear could make it difficult for me to master.
I'll know straight away if these changes have worked, I was getting exit understeer out of clearways(final long sweeper at brands) the track dips away so you can really feel the grip you haven't got lol

I've also noticed smoke from the engine bay, not a lot of it as I thought it was just grease burning off the exhaust and manifold at first but 30-40miles in and it's still smoking away.
I'll give the car so abuse tomorrow and see if I can spot what's happening. May be a leak somewhere.
 
Nice break down of toe out on the front of FWD and AWD cars.
Too much seems to have opposite effect so hopefully I've hit it on the head first time off.
http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArtic...and-Handling-Part-Seven--Tuning-your-Toe.aspx

As we know, with our FWD cars getting the car turned well initially really helps later in the corner when we want to be on the power. This is my thoughts with clearways, hoping I can throw it in harder and be pointing in a better direction come power on time. Means I might be able to get the wheel straighter and thus put my power down....

If it sucks then it's just a toe change at the front so no biggie.
 
Front toe out certainly helps with turn in :nice:

I'm going to get some more camber going on soon and going to try a bit or rear toe out as well after another track day or 2.
 
How much do you have Logan? Good to hear you like it.
I've had alittle rear toe out(was running it on my 8:31 ring lap) does seem to help but as I said, I'm getting adventurous on the brakes and want to try and keep the rear half in check whilst I'm learning how far is too far lol
 
Ah fair enough, when I was running toe out on the front I felt like the car was just prone to understeer (with 0 at the back). Swapping that round made the car less likely to follow the road surfaces and the rear of the car just rotates so much better.

Interested to see how you get on with it, just highlights how different peoples driving styles prefer different geo!
 
I've never tried it as I said but I'll try anything to experience it. I've always ran 0 at the front so feel like I could learn something from this if anything.
I did have toe out before but it was an accident and was like 0.45degrees lol was horrid.
How much did you have set?

Driving style/track/ weather/ spring rate/ tyres all play their part don't they. That's why there's no real wrong or right too it I suppose.
Trial and error is the best way I think.
I'm happy enough to let the back move on the slower stuff(under around 90mph) after than I want some stability Lol
I'm aiming the set up at the ring really, I want to maximise speed around the faster corners and really get the power working for me.
 
I run 2mm toe out on the front of civic rally cars, gives a nice bit more sharpness to the steering.

One thing I noticed on your print out is your castor is very diffenent, it's something I think you should look into! Could be worn wishbone bushings, bent wish bone, worn/bent bottom ball joint or could be the top wishbone.

If you truly want better turn in, the secret is more castor, I run 4.5 -5 degrees castor in the rally cars and it makes a massive difference.
 
jesse888 said:
How much do you have Logan? Good to hear you like it.
I've had alittle rear toe out(was running it on my 8:31 ring lap) does seem to help but as I said, I'm getting adventurous on the brakes and want to try and keep the rear half in check whilst I'm learning how far is too far lol
Click to expand...

Can't mind how much I have just now need to look out my geo sheet.

I've got some of the geo details from a touring car civic and it's running half a degree toe out at the front and quarter of a degree toe out at the rear!
 
Yeah I was thinking a out the adjustable arms you were selling awhile ago?
Ok not have pas so wondering how much the extra caster is going to effect steering weight? I can handle abit more as its quite light ATM but too much and I won't like it I don't think....


Eoghain said:
I run 2mm toe out on the front of civic rally cars, gives a nice bit more sharpness to the steering.

One thing I noticed on your print out is your castor is very diffenent, it's something I think you should look into! Could be worn wishbone bushings, bent wish bone, worn/bent bottom ball joint or could be the top wishbone.

If you truly want better turn in, the secret is more castor, I run 4.5 -5 degrees castor in the rally cars and it makes a massive difference.
Click to expand...
 
Castor probably ads 50% to steering effort! Un drivable with a diff and no power steering!
 
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