Exactly how much oil?


Bon87 said:
Do you guys drain it from HOT or COLD?
Isnt it better to drain it COLD. that way ALL the oil is in the sump.
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My mechanic has its shope like 1 mile away from my house, so In my case I think I change it when its cold :nono:
 
Guys, should I make this thread sticky? :nerv:
 
Change your oil when it is hot

Means that the oil is thinner and you will drain out more of the old stuff

And in answer to the question above, B18C and B16B use the same oil pan/block so the capacity should be the same
 
yep drain it hot/warm as steve said and mine takes around four litres when doing an oil change :))
 
stevenEK9 said:
Change your oil when it is hot

Means that the oil is thinner and you will drain out more of the old stuff

And in answer to the question above, B18C and B16B use the same oil pan/block so the capacity should be the same
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Ah yes but dip stick reading is at its highest when measuring cold oil. Meaning everything is already in the sump ready to drain.
When oil is hot after driving (obviously) the oil is everywhere and takes time to reach the sump...?
 
Bon87 said:
Ah yes but dip stick reading is at its highest when measuring cold oil. Meaning everything is already in the sump ready to drain.
When oil is hot after driving (obviously) the oil is everywhere and takes time to reach the sump...?
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But the oil flows better when hot..Once draing you can leave it for 10 mins for it all to drain out
 
jdm 3383 said:
But the oil flows better when hot..Once draing you can leave it for 10 mins for it all to drain out
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10 mintues and the majority will come out, but my car is off the road for winter in my recently emptied garage so its been left to drain now for a full 48hrs to get every last drop of the old stuff out! :))

Also im going to be putting 10W40 Fully Synthetic in this time so I wanted to make sure as much of the old oil was flushed!

Just another quick couple of questions because its relevant;

1). I have always tightened the new oil filter by hand. Opinions?
2). What is the torque rating, if any, for the sump plug(s)?

Cheers,
Josh..
 
Ok after some google search most people say HOT,
See this for example;

when the oil is hot most of the contaminants are in suspension and will flow out with the old oil which will flow easily if it's hot. Draining when oil is cold is more like to leave pockets of the old oil higher in the engine - cambox etc..
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Based on what I have read, Tom and Ray (Click and Clack) seem to agree with your father. I also change my oil when it is hot. The idea that it is thinner when it is hot is actually not the reason.

The way multi-viscosity oils work, they are actually thicker when they are hot. A 10W-30 oil is 10 weight oil when it is cold, and 30 weight oil when it is hot. The real reason for changing the oil when it is hot is that any suspended particles or contaminants might settle at the top or bottom of the oil in the pan, and circulating hot oil will ensure you get the most of those contaminants out.
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Thats all I needed to know :)
 
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JoSh said:
1). I have always tightened the new oil filter by hand. Opinions?
2). What is the torque rating, if any, for the sump plug(s)?

Cheers,
Josh..
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1) Hand tightening is fine. Just ensure that you top up the oil filter before you install it, so the engine doesn't experience a sudden dry start. I quickly pour the oil to the top of the oil filter and then swirl it around till it gets absorbed by the media. You DO NOT want it full as you will never get the filter on without making a huge mess on your hand, arm, face, clothes, floor. Don't forget to wet the seal either. IIRC, the oil filter torque should you have the cap/remover, is 16ft/lbs.

2) Honda recommends 29 ft/lbs of torque on the drain plug to seal the washer. But I have also seen it vary and I believe it is actually 30-33 for Honda B/H-series. OEM copper crush washers or the metal (silver in color) washers are the ones I prefer. I have seen some dealers supply cork/foam/plastic type washers which I am a bit leery of. If you do NOT have a torque wrench with a rating this low, insist on the copper crush washer and STOP turning once the washer has been flattened.
 
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RagingAngel said:
1) Hand tightening is fine. Just ensure that you top up the oil filter before you install it, so the engine doesn't experience a sudden dry start. I quickly pour the oil to the top of the oil filter and then swirl it around till it gets absorbed by the media. You DO NOT want it full as you will never get the filter on without making a huge mess on your hand, arm, face, clothes, floor. Don't forget to wet the seal either. IIRC, the oil filter torque should you have the cap/remover, is 16ft/lbs.

2) Honda recommends 29 ft/lbs of torque on the drain plug to seal the washer. But I have also seen it vary and I believe it is actually 30-33 for Honda B/H-series. OEM copper crush washers or the metal (silver in color) washers are the ones I prefer. I have seen some dealers supply cork/foam/plastic type washers which I am a bit leery of. If you do NOT have a torque wrench with a rating this low, insist on the copper crush washer and STOP turning once the washer has been flattened.
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Good info, thanks.
 
britishracer said:
Steven is right. If you change the oil when hot, then all the old oil should come out. According to the service manual for the B engine, it should be exactly 4 litres with a Honda Oil Filter.

I have scanned a photo of the Mugen REV-R catalog where it lists all the oil capacity for Honda Sports models. The column on the left is without oil filter change, on the right is with a Honda oil filter.

10624_154281291201_789371201_3421545_7949360_n.jpg
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I'm confused, I just did an oil and filter change.
I put in 3.7L into the engine, none into the filter.
and the dip stick measurement says I'm over by half.

Anyway,I let it run for 5 mins, then gently drove 10 miles home.
I will have to double check this in a few hours time. But the same thing happeend last time, I just drained some oil out. about 0.5L

I changed the oil HOT
 
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Ok so after a few hours, its over the max mark by 1/4 (4mm)
Do I drain a little bit out or leave it?
I'm going straight to Santa Pod in the morning and running the strip.
So what do you reckon?
 
Bon87 said:
Ok so after a few hours, its over the max mark by 1/4 (4mm)
Do I drain a little bit out or leave it?
I'm going straight to Santa Pod in the morning and running the strip.
So what do you reckon?
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hard to know

you will deffo burn that out if your spending the day drag racing

but over filling your oil is bad for the engine

also running the car with more oil than necessary stains the oil black within a few days

and will continue to stain your next change of oil
 
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