A Civic


Made a quick purchase with Eurocar parts

4 litres of Petronas 10w40 to flush the engine through, chose 10w40 because it's thicker so should lift up any **** before putting the 5w40 Motul in. Probably run the 10W40 for a week before I drop it out.

Started putting the interior back together because I miss driving it, aim to have it road ready and serviced by the end of this month, just searching for quotes now with mods declared this time round.






Pain in the ass trying to get the seats back in, snapped a bolt on each side for the rail because of my serious henchness.


Anyways , few bits and bobs and the interior is done , headlining will be retrimmed in suede soon.







 
Had these Honda Access Sir mats in storage for a while that I bought off Shuthan around a year back. Quick rinse down and now they're drying in the sun.

Only down side, my jet wash was too powerful for the label and almost shredded it
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Weather has been beautiful the last two days.


BIG GAY WING




Sadly the fitment isn't the best, 3/4 holes line up but I guess the body shop can tap the holes and make them bigger and align it all properly and the guy I bought it off who claims to be a painter by trade got the paint match completely off, this looks more like championship white, I gave him the code for the frost white as well, you won't be able to tell by the picture because the uploaded reduced the quality by far, oh well. Without the lip it looks Very wrong so threw the vtiS on, might put the old duckbill back on when the cars ready for the road because I don't like the mismatching colours lol.

I also wanted to put the sticker on the dash but it just wouldn't stick to my dash, nothing does including those sticky mats for phones which is weird, so after a few attempts and not wanting to waste a sticker I threw it on the back, yes my cars dirty but it hasn't been washed in 6 months hence why I asked for help in the cleaning section.


 
that_civic said:
Finally got the camber arms on, set them to near as close as oem for now.

Drop links and toe arms were just problematic, no budge .


pics ...







yeah, meister R springs like to rot don't they.
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You have set them wrong, there is a left hand thread on one end and right hand thread on the other,
you should set it so the same amount of thread is showing on each end, then you will be able to easily adjust the arms on the car
 
b16 mini said:
You have set them wrong, there is a left hand thread on one end and right hand thread on the other,
you should set it so the same amount of thread is showing on each end, then you will be able to easily adjust the arms on the car
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I noticed this and sorted it haha
 
Functionable camber ?






now I just need to figure out how to get the hose on the fittings without damaging the hose too much, have tried it and it's pulling the nylon back
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The first start didn't go too well, dead battery
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Attempt 2 , with a jump,start, still won't start .

multimeter out, battery only reads as high as 11.8 Volts so I will assume I need a new battery, good thing I've got my odyssey but that needs some post terminals so I can actually use it.



ill try jumping it again tomorrow but I'm ordering the terminals now so I should get them hopefully Tuesday .
 
Bit the bullet and ordered brand new calipers from JSP with some brake lube since i'm goin to dismantle them to spray so will lube the sliders back up to make sure everythings all slidey.

Also purchased some VHT paint

VHT high temp exhaust manifold primer

VHT high temp exhaust manifold clear coat

VHT brake caliper gold

The only types I could find was engine and exhaust manifold, and seeing as brakes get up to around 600-900 degrees depending where its used I thought i'd go for the exhaust manifold one as that's more than capable as the engine only goes up to 400 degrees, plus the videos I watched they used the exhaust manifold one.

Should be durable enough, now to go out and buy a mini heater and make myself a little oven contraption , i'd probably get kicked out the house if my mum saw me cooking brakes in her oven
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Going to need help here

First start up and this



Won't move off there, slackened the throttle cable incase that was open and it's not.

Any suggestions ?

Update, may of sorted the issue thanks to a good suggestion by a Facebook friend Harold who suggested TPS, out I went with the multimeter and the calibrations are out, 0.59 closed throttle and something like 4.3 wot, so tomorrow I'll adjust it to the Honda specs and see if that sorts it out.


Also ordered myself a Gates thermostat and hopefully I will get the cooling system drained , flushed through with a hose of water then bled through with fresh coolant.


Even though it was annoying idling so high, how I've missed this obnoxious sound and the sounds slightly different with the new intake on.
 
Leej8 said:
Your movin along with this nicely now . Keep up the good work mate .
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Thanks lee, hope to be able to drive it in around 2 weeks now, just sorting the TPS out, closed throttle is being an ass but I know how to sort it, problem is having to do it in my own with this temperamental weather we're having recently, rain, sun and snow every hour lol.
 
This TPS is really getting on my nerves now, I can't seem to get both within tolerances, if I get WOT right the closed will be out by around 0.2 volts and that's with the stop pin fully wound out.

One more attempt , if not I'll get closed throttle sorted and leave the WOT for the mapping, always had issues with the TPS on this car.


Today was not my day. Can't get the tps calibrated , it's either out on one closed throttle and in on wide open or vice versa.

Then the wires for my multimeter came out the pins and to top it off the wires to the TPS plug snapped off.

Exposed the wire , tried to twist it back together and used my none existent soldering skills to solder it together then covered it in electrical tape ( not pictured it started raining ) .

So yeah, I've gotten nowhere with this, one more try tomorrow before I call it quits, I've also come to realise the engine loom is s piece of ****, somebody's done a right hack job and covered it in electrical tape.

Excuse to get a Rywire tucked loom or call it quits and K swap.



 
OK mate , on your butterfly file off a tiny bit of it to get it to spec, then put something on your accelerator to make sure your getting full opening,
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P's, also the dead stop bolt should be taken up the slack in the trottle cable, trottle stop should be holding butterfly,
Or you will have a sticky trottle, and your trottle cable will have to much tension on it . Should never have to move the dead stop bolt.
 
Leej8 said:
P's, also the dead stop bolt should be taken up the slack in the trottle cable, trottle stop should be holding butterfly,
Or you will have a sticky trottle, and your trottle cable will have to much tension on it . Should never have to move the dead stop bolt.
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It's way out so I doubt filing it will get it within tolerance, it's weird how it was working before the inlet swap now I can't get it anywhere near.
Going to buy a new multimeter incase this ones defective and because the needles have come off.

No idea if the engine needs to be warm and the battery fully charged to set these , I did read somewhere it needs to be warm but how true this is, I don't know because only one person on the whole of the Internet said this lol.
 
No mate you can set the tps off the car ,and heat has nothing to do with tps , just make sure there is a steady reading from ct to ot, you might want to take the tps off and check that its seated good . Should be a very easy process, providing you have a working multimeter
 
Leej8 said:
No mate you can set the tps off the car ,and heat has nothing to do with tps , just make sure there is a steady reading from ct to ot, you might want to take the tps off and check that its seated good . Should be a very easy process, providing you have a working multimeter
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Exactly what I thought, had the TPS off and cleaned inside as best as I could. I have a feeling the multimeter isn't working properly so going to buy a new one tomorrow.
 
When checking resistant, you need to take the resistance of the multimeter into account and subtract it .
 
Don't give up. These things happen its just the cars are old parts ar well n truly used and have become brittle
 
More old footage for those who care.



Wire snapped again, TPS is ****** so got a mate who might have a spare who will send it over to me, sensor, plug and some wire so it can be soldered in.

In the meantime I decided to start tucking the headlight loom and wideband wiring , this is how far I got before the rain.

Unplugged, cut the electrical tape and separated the headlight plugs from the fuse box .




Also some GoPro / Instagram pics



 
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