Fault Code Help


H

Harpal

New Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
6
Hello,

I have a Honda Civic EK4 VTI Xreg (2000) The face lift models. I tried to obtain fault codes by bridgeing the two pin connector located just behind the centre console.
The ABS Light flashes. I was wondering is it only the ABS Light that gives out the fault codes?

Can someone please help
:please:
 
Harpal said:
Hello,

I have a Honda Civic EK4 VTI Xreg (2000) The face lift models. I tried to obtain fault codes by bridgeing the two pin connector located just behind the centre console.
The ABS Light flashes. I was wondering is it only the ABS Light that gives out the fault codes?

Can someone please help
:please:
Click to expand...


Not sure what connector you bridgeing there mate (as i have only done this on a EK9) but the ABS system has it's own fault code systems!

Have you tried using this method???
Checking the CEL Codes - Honda, Acura Tech Website, tutorials, tuning and HOW-TO's. Drag racing, street racing, road racing - C-speedracing.com
 
hi

Yeah that was the same connector i bridged. The CEL Light stays on however the ABS light Flashes with the Fault codes. The codes i got out of the ABS light was 54 16 61.
Would these codes relate to the ABS system and not the CEL.

Thank you for your swift reply.
 
ive got the exact same problem harpal, but i dunno how to fix it?
 
harpal, jimbobs rite, the abs does have its own fault code system. That means u cud have a fault in ur abs system or it cud be an old fault that was fixed but not erased, wat u need 2 do is:
Bridge the 2 pin connector
Press the brake padal and hold it
Switch on the ignition
When the abs light goes off - release the pedal
When it comes back on - press the pedal
When it goes out - release the pedal
Wait 5 second and the abs light should flash twice
Switch off the ignition and remove the bridge from the connector

Now bridge the connector again and switch on the ignition, if there are any engine faults, the CEL should flash
 
I've just seen this and I have exactly the same problem, it appears my engine fault codes are hiding behind the ABS ones :(

And every time I follow the instructions to clear the ABS ones, it just comes straight back.

But I definitely know something is wrong with the car engine wise, as its running awful and smoking and stinks of burning :(

Just thought I'd add to the thread as my issue is similiar.

Dan
 
flamby has ur car had any probs with the abs system now or previously? using that method id posted above got rid of my abs fault code. Seeing as the abs codes keep coming back maybe u have a fault with the abs? Also in wat way is the car running awful?
 
Hey ej88, thanks for replying!

Well I hadn't had a problem before now with the ABS, my thread with my issues with the car can be found here:

http://www.ek9.org/forum/honda-integra-type-r/18494-very-low-mpg-constant-smoking-idle-running.html

In short, the ABS light came on almost immediately after coming off my drive a few weeks back, turned off the car and on again, and it went away.

Then I was driving back home last week and the CEL light came on, I pulled over immediately and turned the car off, had a quick inspection, and turned it back on and the CEL light was gone.

So got home, did a diagnostics check, the CEL stayed on constantly, however the ABS light gave me these errors:

54 Fail-safe Relay
and
81 CPU

I have searched on the ITR-DC2 forum and noone has an answer to these two errors.
So I would say that yes, I still do have a fault with the ABS, but no real idea how to fix it at all :(

As for the car running awful, well today I was driving home and the CEL came on, pulled over immediately and turned her off and on again, but this time its stayed on.

Got home, tested to see if the CEL light would give me a code, but it was the same as before (CEL light on constant, ABS light giving me a code). So I reset the ecu, and then the CEL just came straight back on.

Car smells of burning metal, thats the best way to describe it, and has no power and is hesitant and jerky... wish it would just tell me whats wrong with it :(

That's everything I can think of, cheers for replying buddy!

Dan
 
Was reading ur other thread there, did u change ur o2 sensor in the end?

As is usually the way with these cars it cud be the distributor, im sure u,ve been told this a few times now by different people, a friend of mine had a vti civic with similar problems i.e hesitation and no power at low revs but it still vtec'd fine like urs, but it wasnt smokey as far as i remember.

When he changed his distributor, not sure if it was the distributor cap n rotor or the whole thing, but she ran fine then. if u do change urs, the dizzys got adjustment on it to change ur ignition timing, so mark where the old 1 came off or else the car will still run rough n use fuel .

As for the abs problem, is it workin fine? Id say replace the fail safe relay but i dunno how much it wud cost or even if it wud fix it or not, apparently the integra abs pump is known for leaking in them, the abs system cud be low in oil. Other than that i cudnt be sure. Theres plenty informantion on the net about it but nothin really pinpoints ur problem.

Im no expert, im just goin on stuff iv'e expierenced or can dig up from the net, so if in doubt u may as well try a mechanic
B.t.w wenever u bridge the connector wen ur doin diagnostics, the cel light will always stay on i found unless theres a problem
 
Last edited:
Hey mate, thanks for replying again!

I appreciate you taking the time to give some input to my issue.

I didn't want to reply until I had changed the o2 sensor, which I have just been busy doing this morning.

So here is a copy and paste from my thread on the issue, just to share with you what happened once it changed.

-------------------------------------

The o2 sensor has now been changed!

I know I know... I should of done it by now :roll: to be honest I should of done it after the first post telling me to do so :lol:

Right so the outcome is the engine light, has now gone off!

But...

I want to go over what happened the first time I turned it on after changing the o2 sensor:

- put new o2 sensor in
- reset ecu
- turned car on - engine light came on straight away constantly
- I then went to the exhaust for a listen, sounded odd, didn't have that 4 pot beat, almost sounded like it was pffft'ing ?

- So I let it warm up fully, then turned off.

- Reset ecu again
- Went to turn on, turned the key and it tried to start but wouldn't, did this 3 times, and on the 4th time it fired up, and engine light didn't come on.

- Left it like this for 10mns just idling away, happy to see no engine light.

- Then turned it off after 10mns.
- Turned it back on, absolutely fine this time, still no engine light.

- Then revved it, got an almost pop from the exhaust on each heavy rev (up to 5k and down again), sounded like the noise an induction kit makes under heavy acceleration, like a gasp for air, but more of a puff... sorry thats as clear as I can be.

- Still no engine light, so I turned it off.

So it appears the engine light has gone? But I am still slightly confused, I mean does it take a while for an o2 sensor to stabilise?

Cheers,

Dan
 
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