What N/A set up are you running?


martin251184 said:
Someone shoot me down if i am wrong but to me it would make sense to pay a bit extra for a b18 for the long term reliability factor? How reliable would the b16 be long term with all these mods assuming it is mapped correctly? Surely a b18 will give you the better daily driving performance due to extra torque outside of the v-tec. Would the v-tec pull of a cammed b16 be superior to that of a standard b18 engine?

Personally i would go with the b18, but i would say that! :p
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Just keep the B18C Redline under 9000rpm and it will be fine. B16B runs cooler than a B18C, thats about it.

cammed B16B will never pull harder than a B18C unless it is making more torque, providing eveything else like gears, exhuast etc is equal. B18C revs harder and faster than a B16B in every RPM.

Sorry but thats the reality.. :)
 
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i quit like the B16B engine in standard form......

i mean i'm running trust panel filter/spoon intake elbow, fujitsubo header/spoon b-pipe/spoon N1 so it's breathing a bit better and i had it RR at 192bhp

i just like the reliability of having the engine itself in standard form since as long as it's kept well serviced it will take a hell of alot of abuse without going bang!

so far my money has gone into brake upgrades and now i've started spending money on the suspension and it's an absolute hoot to drive, the more i drive it the more i learn to drive it smoother/quicker and be able to work the gears a bit better and hold it in vtec

just think that unless you are taking it on track you would be best spending your money on chassis/brake bits etc as from my experience it means that you can take it to higher speeds safer and push the car further :)
 
wouldnt swaping your b16 block for a b18c6 block be just as good and cheaper? how much for a b18 block? that should give you alot more torque! also ive hearb b16 heads flow better than b18 heads this rite?

then you could put cams in your b16 head etc!

itl be rapid! im in same situation as you! not sure if i should tune my b16 or go for a b18c6 conversion which cost alot of dolla!
so now im thinkin of fitting b18 block and adding cams!

any advice on this appreciated!
 
B18C/16B has the same head as the B16A head.

If anything the R variants will flow best because of their mild port work.

The P72 head from the GS-R is no slouch either - with its "square" combustion chamber and straight shot port into the intake side.... it just depends on your combination of parts in the end....the answer is not really that clear cut.
 
Just like to cler up i'm going from a EK4 B16A2 not B16B so i'd expect a massive diff in torque from a B18C:drive:
 
ijwhiteman said:
Just like to cler up i'm going from a EK4 B16A2 not B16B so i'd expect a massive diff in torque from a B18C:drive:
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nah, B16A and B16A torque is only 3Nm peak difference. B16B has more hp and redline advantage over the B16A. thats it.

A 180hp 1.8 B18 will naturally pull harder than a B16A becoz of torque.

You really need some good combinations with the B16 to make up for the lack of torque compared to higher capacity, wrong choice of parts and combination will see it running no good. Sometimes gaining 5 peak hp mods will see it loosing 5hp somewhere else within a broad rpm(just for example).

This is just something you have to plan. Easiest way to ensure a wide and broad increase of power and torque is to increase cc, and ofcourse... Forced Induction.
 
would changing my b16a block for a b18c6 block be just as good as the actual itr engine! offcourse with ctr pistons n cams etc! wouldnt this be cheaper aswell? anyone got any idea on how much an b18c6 block would cost?
cheers
 
jugbugz said:
nah, B16A and B16A torque is only 3Nm peak difference. B16B has more hp and redline advantage over the B16A. thats it.

A 180hp 1.8 B18 will naturally pull harder than a B16A becoz of torque.

You really need some good combinations with the B16 to make up for the lack of torque compared to higher capacity, wrong choice of parts and combination will see it running no good. Sometimes gaining 5 peak hp mods will see it loosing 5hp somewhere else within a broad rpm(just for example).

This is just something you have to plan. Easiest way to ensure a wide and broad increase of power and torque is to increase cc, and ofcourse... Forced Induction.
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I understand completely! :nice:
 
DarkEk4 said:
would changing my b16a block for a b18c6 block be just as good as the actual itr engine! offcourse with ctr pistons n cams etc! wouldnt this be cheaper aswell?
cheers
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That would be effective.

I would keep the ITR pistons unless you have the ability and the gas to tune for such a high compression.
 
yeh i live down the road from hyeline performance who have the ability to tune! what you mean by have the gas to tune for such a high compression?

we have 99 octane here if thats what you mean!

im tuning my b16a2 with skunk2 pro 2 cams, springs and retainers! and putting in some ek9 ctr pistons and mugen HG to up the compression for the pro2's! and then whilst ive had my fun with dat setup ill swap blocks for a b18c6 block for more power! will that be a good set up!!!?:)

cheers
 
It's inadvisable to fit used pistons to another block. So be sure to take that into account if you decide to use PCT pistons again in an 18C.

Pro2 cams are big.... just make sure whoever is assembling it checks for piston to valve contact.
 
Dixcelbrake said:
Yeah is abit expensive, we normally sell them for £330, S300 is not that reliable as well, I had wiring issue with them, which cause me an engine blew up at Rockingham. What not go for Power FC? If you need help, we have professional mapper who map our race cars and we can supply the Power FC for alot cheaper.
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What a load of tripe! What wiring is there to go wrong with a Hondata!?? ...NONE...
:mad:

Hondata is 100% reliable! :nice:
 
perhaps bad OBD2 to OBD1 conversion harness? (Not Hondata's fault)

Or whoever installed the S300 board didn't know what they were doing when soldering to the P28/P30/P72 etc OBD1 brain? (Not Hondata's fault)

I'd like to know what was the cause of the faulty wiring too though... :)
 
Yes that is the most likely scenarios, If you use hondata harnesses or ecu with a built in OBD1 connector you NEVER get these problems.!

...blaming Hondata for this is naieve and unproffesional. Ive seen you slate a lot of different companies products witout any substantiation. If your going to give your opinions of XYZ products then please be fair to the companies and give your facts / reasoning with your claim.
 
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DarkEk4 said:
yeh i live down the road from hyeline performance who have the ability to tune! what you mean by have the gas to tune for such a high compression?

we have 99 octane here if thats what you mean!

im tuning my b16a2 with skunk2 pro 2 cams, springs and retainers! and putting in some ek9 ctr pistons and mugen HG to up the compression for the pro2's! and then whilst ive had my fun with dat setup ill swap blocks for a b18c6 block for more power! will that be a good set up!!!?:)

cheers
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You'll need minimum 12.5CR and a very good tuner to run those cams good. Otherwise, dont expect much with drivability.:nice:
 
I will witness it...3 mates have volunteered their help, & one is a mechanic! Get that 1.8 in there yourself, Im sure you will think of a favour for Mark! Good to meet you yesterday, if you are in one peice after the ring...save some money for Combe! :D
 
haitch said:
I will witness it...3 mates have volunteered their help, & one is a mechanic! Get that 1.8 in there yourself, Im sure you will think of a favour for Mark! Good to meet you yesterday, if you are in one peice after the ring...save some money for Combe! :D
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You mean Iain not mark!!! lol Was good to meet you also. And yes i will see what money i have available. I may not have a complete car after the ring!!! lol
 
Here is my EG6 setup:

- Ported and polish head;
- Intake manifold port matched;
- Spoon Sports valve springs;
- Spoon Sports head gasket;
- Hondata intake manifold gasket;
- 64mm polished throttle body;
- Spoon Sports 4-2-1 manifold;
- Racing de-cat pipe;
- Integra R b-pipe;
- OEM Futaba Silencer;
- Spoon Sports drop in air filter;
- Spoon Sports spark plugs leads;
- NGK platinum PFR7G-11 spark plugs;
- Spoon Sports Flywheel;
- Spoon Sports clutch cover;
- Spoon Sports clutch disk (organic);
- Rev limit at 8600rpm;

169hp @ 7600rpm
158nm @ 7080rpm

I have done the complete setup I wanted to get the cams for the bump of performance.
I happy with the performance after all is not only the peak numbers it counts its where they are and how long they stay.
 
Tsuchinoko said:
169hp @ 7600rpm
158nm @ 7080rpm

I have done the complete setup I wanted to get the cams for the bump of performance.
I happy with the performance after all is not only the peak numbers it counts its where they are and how long they stay.
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Do you have a dyno graph with AFR reading too?
 
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