Vibration coming from front end while accelerating and braking.


A

alex4twenty

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Oct 23, 2013
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So while driving home the other day something broke causing a lot of vibration and shuddering, I thought id had a massive blow out so pulled over and all the tyres were fine and nuts tight, got back in and as I started accelerating it came back and it gets even worse the faster I go, and while braking, my first thought was drive shaft so put it in the garage and they say both sides look fine, along with the bearings, bushes etc, so what could it be?? guessing it was to be something in the box now??

Its an s4c box on a dc2 stroked b16b engine.

any help much appreciated Alex.
 
Have you had a look at your brakes? Id be looking at them next if you havnt already. Seen as it happens when you brake.
 
nope will get them checked over, its far worse while accelerating but as soon as I drop the power it goes away, the garage have suggested it could be the diff, problem is its just a random garage that haven't had a lot of experience with my car.
 
I have a similar issue. Swopped shafts and the issue us still there. I can only thing that it's the spline inside the diff.
 
I feel your pain then!! is it easier replacing the diff or just switching the whole box out?
 
alex4twenty said:
I feel your pain then!! is it easier replacing the diff or just switching the whole box out?
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Easier? Just switching the box, as it will need to come out either way. I have a spare box you could borrow to see if that's what the problem is but I won't be home for the next week or so... But swapping the diff is not too difficult either, but you obviously need to open the box.
 
Engine mounts worn, wheels needing balance, brakes issue (sticking/warped)
 
oifovo said:
Easier? Just switching the box, as it will need to come out either way. I have a spare box you could borrow to see if that's what the problem is but I won't be home for the next week or so... But swapping the diff is not too difficult either, but you obviously need to open the box.
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I probably meant faster (and cheaper haha) as this is my daily car, but Iv'e now sorted something else to get to work for the next while so going to do this properly assuming it is the diff. thats a spot on offer mate but homes about 200 miles n/w of Glasgow ha.

elchunk said:
Engine mounts worn, wheels needing balance, brakes issue (sticking/warped)
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Its definitely not the latter two, could be worn engine mounts but having looked through my cars history they were done less than a year ago.. suppose its worth a look though
 
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Id say drive shafts/cv. Never heard of the oem LSD's breaking
 
Inner plunge joints can knock like hell if they fail. Jack the car up and run it of the ground, try pin point the sound. Pull the inner spider joint out the shaft so the the gearbox can spin without a shaft in it. If the noise goes you know its the shaft straight away.

Did this on a ka the other day and it was the inner joint.
Cut the ties/ clips, pull spider outer, clean grease and put a glove over the cup so grease doesnt fly everywhere when it spins.

I know its timw consuming but easier than pulling a diff
 
Im interested to see whats causing this. Let us know when youve solved it pal
 
Bearings are also good,

Dannyboy205 said:
Inner plunge joints can knock like hell if they fail. Jack the car up and run it of the ground, try pin point the sound. Pull the inner spider joint out the shaft so the the gearbox can spin without a shaft in it. If the noise goes you know its the shaft straight away.

Did this on a ka the other day and it was the inner joint.
Cut the ties/ clips, pull spider outer, clean grease and put a glove over the cup so grease doesnt fly everywhere when it spins.

I know its timw consuming but easier than pulling a diff
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The garage have had it on the ramp and said they couldn't replicate the problem, but obviously its a lot easier to spin a wheel with no resistance so if its a cv joint thats failed its not being pushed to failure again so nothing shows up?? and same for the diff?? if either of those are the problem I guess they need to be loaded for the problem to show. I'll give what you suggested a go tomorrow and see how I get on.

cheers for all the responses guys!
 
Haha about the corsa. Is it just a vibration and not an audible knocking. Id still put it down t driveshafts over the diff.

So check
Wheel balancing, look for misisng weights
Wheel bearings
Buckled or damage to the wheel.

Then best to swap the driveshafts out of you can borrow some replacement ones. But only do 1 at a time to its easy to narrow down the faulty shaft. You can also check the rod ends, i would of Thought they would need to be totally nakered to cause vibration like that
 
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It's like shuddering and a bit of knocking at the same time, I've also got some creek noise just before full lock which wasn't there before this.. the garage rebalanced the wheels just incase and I think I'd be hearing it if it was a bearing?
I'm not convinced it's the diff either It seem fine and no noise when I pushed it round a roundabout,
I've found a set of driveshafts so hopefully getting them on Saturday, and I'll see what difference they make,
 
check your anti roll bar links and the D rubber/brackets. mine caused a squeak when going to full lock before i replaced them
 
elchunk said:
check your anti roll bar links and the D rubber/brackets. mine caused a squeak when going to full lock before i replaced them
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Thanks will check them out too. Had a feeling some other stuff would crop up due to the original problem!
 
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