TODA Vtec Killer


doh

doh

HONDA PINOY
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
139
Hi everyone,

I have a B18b. I am about to put a B16a Vtec head on. Now, I am really intrigued by TODA Vtec Killer, will there still be a need to put the B16 head or can I just install the the TODA Camshafts instead of the whole B16 head on?

Or do I need some B16a internal head parts for the TODA camshafts?

Also, what other internal parts do I need to support TODA camshafts? Forged valves, springs,retainers, cam gears, pistons, rods, chipped ecu,hondata, stand alone, how about the bottom end?

Or is skunk2 pro cam stage 3 better? I think skunk2 needs vtec head.

also i noticed that TODA is more aggressive sounding than skunk2s.

planning on ITBs too in the future. besides, TODA, OBX who else ITBs, borla?

this is just a weekend car, occasional normal driving.

Thanks in advance!
 
you need springs + caps, plugs for the vtec pistons, blanks for the middle rockers, cams obviously, adjustable pulleys

if its for a road car i wouldnt bother, my engine which has the above as well as pistons/rods/ported head/itbs/omex ecu/custom exhaust/cold feed airbox, is pretty flat below 5000rpm, starts to wake up and then goes mad at 7500-8500

would be hard work on the road !
 
Based on you knowledge you shouldn't even be considering this cam! I think someone has been watching too many youtube videos...
 
I had a std clio 172 and went up against a MK1 on good cams, nothing in it below 100 mph. wasn't impressed.

Call a tuner mate.
 
ijwhiteman said:
Based on you knowledge you shouldn't even be considering this cam! I think someone has been watching too many youtube videos...
Click to expand...

his car at the end of the day, but what I do suggest is go to someone who knows his ****. this isn't a good trial and error process, especially when your valves are open constantly something will eventually go wrong. but what car doesn't would be nice to hear, all the ones I heard sound like motorbike engines lol
 
Well for a starters do a search on google mate.

And yes you will need uprated valve springs, retainers stem seals and such. Go for a high comp. 3 angle valve job and such, ported and polished head as well to get the best from them. There's a ton of supporting mods as well needed to be done to optimize the cams.

Lots of work, not just a case of "oh we'll chuck these in here, and chuck this in there".
Alot of thought and preperation.


But as said by a guy above, you want useable power.
 
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civic360 said:
his car at the end of the day, but what I do suggest is go to someone who knows his ****. this isn't a good trial and error process, especially when your valves are open constantly something will eventually go wrong. but what car doesn't would be nice to hear, all the ones I heard sound like motorbike engines lol
Click to expand...

How can your valves be open constantly ? Where have you heard this lol ?
 
thanks for the replies everyone.

I have started to work on my b18b block. whole head and block apart. these are some steps that i am doing/going/planning to do; any comments/advice are welcome

1) purchase p30 pistons (deciding if going .25 or .50 over) or just go for CTR? worried about piston-valve clearance on high RPMs

2) balance crank
3) bore and hone block ; re-deck (deciding if going .25 or .50 over)
4) shotpeen rods (arp rod bolts to be used)
5) acl or oem honda main/rod bearings
6) hastings or oem honda rings

7) 2 ply head gasket (im not sure on this one, I think i have to used non vtec gasket?)

8) port and polish p3 head
9) skunk2 hi comp pistons (intake and exhaust)
10) skunk2 retainers and springs
11) oem keepers, seals, seats

12) so, still researching on rs machine vtec eliminator camshafts or skunk2 camshafts (which one, again still researching)
13) skunk2 adjustable cam gears (if needed, i assume i will)

14) arp head bolts
15) golden eagle lsvtec conversion kit

16) still researching on ITBs or skunk2 IMs. (tuning ITBs, HOW?)

17) chipped p28 (pondering if hondata is needed, most probably)

18) hondata intake manifold gasket
19) oem exhaust manifold gasket
20) oem oil pump, water pump
21) TODA timing belt
22) NGK V-power BKR7E spark plugs
23) 310cc injectors
24) 4-1 ITR headers

25) still researching if aftermarket fuel rail, fuel pump (most probably) and adjustable fuel pressure regulator are needed

i am starting from scratch.. a little back story on why..

the car on my avatar, got stolen last april 16, 2010. in our underground gated parking.

here's what I had. (keyword...HAD.. :(( )

Footwork:
Wheels and Tires - Authentic Spoon Sw388 16x7 wrapped with 205/45/16 Nittos
Coilovers - Tein Mono Flex
Upper Mount - Tein Pillowball
Spoon Lug Nuts
Suspension Assembly - JDM 98-Spec Integra Type-R (DC2), 5x114.3
Hard Rubber Bushing Kit - HardRace
Rear Lower Control Arms - Skunk2 Pro-Series
Roll Centre Adjusters - Spoon Zero Bump Steer Kit
Swift swaybar and endlinks
ASR subframe brace
CTR Front LCAs
Skunk2 Rear LCAs
Skunk2 front and rear camber kit

Motor - JDM B16B Civic Type-R (Built by Spoon Sports Japan, Stroked to 1.8L)
Compression Ratio - 11.4:1
Balance and Blueprint - Spoon Sports Japan
Port & Polished Head - Spoon Sports Japan
Stroker Kit - Spoon B16B 1800cc
Pistons - Spoon
Connecting Rods - Spoon
Crank Shaft - Spoon
Oil Pump - Spoon
Oil Pan - Spoon
Headgasket - Mugen
Head Bolts - Spoon
Camshafts - 00-Spec JDM B18C Type-R
Cam Gears - Spoon
Spark Plugs - NGK Iriway 8
Timing Belt - Toda Racing
Intake - AEM Hybrid Cold Air Intake
Intake Manifold Gasket - Hondata
Throttle Body - Spoon (70mm)
Power Steering Pump - JDM Civic Type-R
Fuel Pump - Walbro 190LPH
ECU - P28, Chipped, JUN Program
Motor Mounts - Hasport (Sport)
Header - Toda
Test Pipe - Blox (2.5inch O.D., Adjustable Design)
Exhaust - JDM Civic Type-R (EK9)
Oil Catch Can - Carbing
Magnetic Drain Bolt - Spoon
Motor Oil (Street) - Motul 8100 (5W40)
T1R Voltage Stabilizer

Drivetrain:
Transmission - 96-Spec JDM B18C Type-R with LSD
Clutch - JDM B18C Type-R
Flywheel - JDM B18C Type-R
Shift Linkage Bushings - Mugen
Magnetic Drain Bolt - Spoon
Transmission Fluid - Motul Motyl Gear Oil (10W40 Technosynthese)

Brakes:
Master Cylinder - Integra Type-R (DC2)
Brake Booster - Integra Type-R (DC2)
Proportioning Valve - JDM Civic Type-R (EK9)
Brake Lines - Russell Stainless Steel
Front Brake Calipers - Spoon calipers
Rear Brake Calipers - JDM 98-Spec Integra Type-R (DC2)
Brake Rotors (Front) - Spoon
Brake Rotors (Front) - Honda
Brake Pads (Front) - Project Mu Type-HC+
Brake Pads (Rear) - Project Mu Level Max500
Brake Fluid - Motul DOT 5.1

Cooling:
Radiator - Koyo, Aluminum, Dual Core, Half-Length
Radiator Cap - Mugen
Radiator Hoses - Samco
Radiator Stay - Blox
Thermostat - Mugen
Thermoswitch - Mugen

Exterior:
Exterior Colour (Body) - Audi Lava Grey Pearl
Exterior Colour(Roof) - Audi Black (No Pearl)
Engine Bay Colour - Custom Beige
CF Hood
JDM CTR Wind Visors
Front Lip - JDM Honda Access (SiR EK4)
Rear Lip - JDM Civic Type-R (EK9)
Front Grill - JDM Civic Type-R
Side Moldings - JDM Civic Type-R
Door Handles - OEM Honda Civic Sedan Rear Door (EK)
Sidemarkers - JDM Civic (EK)
Headlights - JDM Civic SiR (EK4)
Bosch 6000K HIDs
Spoon Side Mirror
Spoon Duckbill

Interior:
Shift Knob - Spoon (Titanium)
Shift Boot - JDM Civic Type-R (EK)
Driver’s Air Vent/Pocket - JDM Civic (EK)
Anti-Static Pad - JDM Honda Access
CTR Recaro Seat (Driver/Passenger)
CTR Cluster
CTR Carpet
CTR Panels
Momo steering wheel and HKB hub
Dome Light - Type One Racing Hyper LED
Whole rear panels/carpet/seats/stripped
Weight Reduction - Removed 90% Sound Deadening, Removed Fire Wall Mat
Compustar 2 way alarm with Auto Start

Sorry if its a long post, it is the first that I have "talked" about this...I just want to let it out and hopefully can finally move on..

I hope you guys understand where I am coming from, and this forum has always inspired me.

Cheers!
 

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egshane said:
thats a amazing spec any more pictures ?
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well, they are all gone now..

cant find the pics when I had all the spoon/type1/advan decals and CTR wheels for track use..

so im going back at it,,im going to build (hopefully) an EG hatch..

heres a pic of my first EG hatch (sir2 engine) back in the day..

sorry for the poor cellphone pics.. all in the memories..

PS I am a virgin comes to the LSVTEC conversions and Vtec killer cams/ITBs setup

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really loveing the pictures!

silly question but do you like ice hockey ?
 
i watch it on TV but thats about it. just been here in BC for a little over 3 years.
 
You dont need vtec killer. Car runs better with vtec.
 
that may be true in a daily driven sense, but in a track only car, eliminating vtec can be beneficial if you only really care about a powerband that's between 5k-9k.
 
I dont want to be the fastest honda ever on a circuit but i want something really fun to drive. Its not a dd. Its a road race car. Occassional street driven.

I think i need mid range on a road circuit?

Will these camshafts help?

Thx
 
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