throttle bodie question


EK9dan

EK9dan

B18C-R EK9
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Sep 23, 2008
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Hoi people, have a quick question,

Just received my 68mm ERICK'S Racing Throttle bodie today and had a breif nosey of the fittment.....

There is just one thing im not 100% sure of so i ask........

In this picture you will see the hose above the stock T/B(marked red arrow) .............
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New T/B does not have a connection for this hose.... Obviously it is an air hose but not sure what for, if its needed, or where i put it once i fit the new throttle bodie?
0022.jpg



PS...... this hose leads to some kind of cylinder, once again not sure what it is. :confused:
 
That's a vac line to your charcoal canister, there should also be a small vac tube coming from the canister to your purge solenoid and then to the IM. Im not certain on the total effects of removing these pipes but I believe your emissions will be effected, the charcoal canister is used to trap and store evaporative emissions from the gas tank and IM. If you do decide not to reconnect the pipes it should not effect how your engine run's. I ran in to this problem when doing a ITR engine swap in to a eg civic, the ITR TB didnt have the vac nipple on the TB so I left it off and just blocked up the pipes.
 
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Thanks for that!

Well explained.... I will do the same as you did in that case, fir the T/B and block off the pipes, possibly with a screw or something....

Thanka agin for the info :nice:
 
is it just me or does the new t/b not have holes for the map sensor:secret:
 
b16 mini said:
is it just me or does the new t/b not have holes for the map sensor:secret:
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my initial thoughts too.... until i checked underneath :D

For some reason the sensor holes are under instead of up top....
 
Right i spent some time today and managed to fit the T/B, Although it seems to be revving between 1300-1500RPM? Ive adjusted throttle cable position to suit so thats fine.... ANy ideas? Sensors? Ive checked and all seems normal....

It drives fine though just ideals high........
 
have a look and see if theres a air bypass screw in the tb(controls amount of air that bypasses the butterfly), if there is wind it in to shut it a bit.
 
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b16 mini said:
have a look and see if theres a air bypass screw in the tb(controls amount of air that bypasses the butterfly), if there is wind it in to shut it a bit.
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Yeah i had a proper look before fitment and there was no such thing
:confused:

Werd thing is also, at first it was really bad, going down revs really slow then ideling at around 2000-2500RPM.... I then reset the ECU by takin fuse out for 2 minutes the idel for 10 mins and seemed to idel at normal 900RPM... Took it for a little blast and now idles around 1300RPM??
 
Might not be the cause, but did you do a ohm's reading on the TP sensor before you removed it off the old TB? as you would want the same ohm's reading from the TPS when the butterfly is closed on the new TB as what it read on the old TB.
 
vtech6000 said:
Might not be the cause, but did you do a ohm's reading on the TP sensor before you removed it off the old TB? as you would want the same ohm's reading from the TPS when the butterfly is closed on the new TB as what it read on the old TB.
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Unfortunatley i didnt :nono:

I really should of....

But saying that the Throttle position is as far back as it goes on the new one, a slight opening rises the revs very quickly. Unless the TP sensor thinks its a stock TB and is keepin the revs up even when shut?

What confuses me is when i reset the ECU it was back to 900RPM until i took it for a fairly hard drive...

I mean this isnt a huge problem as its not effecting drive, but i do like things to be normal if you know what i mean....
 
A guy told me before a way to test the tps is to have the car running and disconnect the TPS plug and see if it idles properly then, if it does the problem most likely lies there.(P.S the CEL light will most likely come on.) Its been awhile since I checked one using a volt meter, but if im not wrong you set your volts on the meter at like 10v and by putting the black test lead to negative side of battery and the red test lead to the yellow wire of your TPS sensor while its connected and turn the ignition on to red lights you should get a reading of 0.4-0.5volts when the throttle is fully closed and then when you WOT you should read 4.0-5.0volts
 
with a bigger TB, you have to finely adjust the TPS settings. I had problems with this when I tried out a 65mm TB. Its in the bin now... :)
 
jugbugz said:
with a bigger TB, you have to finely adjust the TPS settings. I had problems with this when I tried out a 65mm TB. Its in the bin now... :)
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How do you adjust the TPS settings?

I definietly wont be throwing it away lol..... I can feel an improvement, just occasionly ideals around 1300-1500RPM which isnt too much of a bother.....
 
You'll find that alot of these billet TBs can stick ever so slightly open, this would cause the intermittant problem you describe. Maybe worth checking its fully closed next time it does it.
 
EK9turbo said:
You'll find that alot of these billet TBs can stick ever so slightly open, this would cause the intermittant problem you describe. Maybe worth checking its fully closed next time it does it.
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We had teh exact same problem with teh BDL throttle body we had on teh K20 DC2,
now swapped it out for a spoon throttle body and it runs awesomely again, :nice:
 
You can use certain greases like lith'grease, work some in between the shaft and the billett body, this will fix it on some, others had the TB butterfly faar too perpendicular to the TB, which is a design flaw compared to a stock or well engineerng TB.
 
@EK9turbo..... Yeah i checked for sticking but its fine after adjusting the throttle position during fitment....

It is a weird one as sometimes it will idle at 900RPM, but most of the time at around 1300RPM.... Little bit inconsistant....

This isnt a huge problem as long as its safe, Is it safe? lol

Also what is "lith'grease"? And where can i get some? And you say you rub a bit inbetween the back of the bodie to where it bolts onto the plenum right? Its worth a try if its not too pricey...
 
Lithium grease, its used in wheel bearings etc. its good with High temp and very protective. You need work some of it into it, then wipe the excess, if you go to a local garage theyll sell somthing like castrol lith (they label castrol LM) for a fiver. dont buy Castrol CL, its highly waster-resistant and calcium based (black in colour, heavy grease). Great for iside driveshaft boots AND generally any mechanism that will get exposed to LOTS of water/moisture potentially. Lith grease is what you want.

I didnt say rub between the TB and intake manifold!... D'oh! lol... you want it between the round shaft (that the throttle-body butterfly mounts on) nd the throttle body itself!
 
hahaha, my bad!

Right may try and source some over the weekend and rub rub rub! :D

Thanks for that mate :nice:
 
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