pic of crack in block


shooter mcgavan

shooter mcgavan

98 ek9
Joined
Sep 12, 2008
Messages
1,150
here are the pics.from what i can see the crack was caused by impact or a torque damper as the studs on the t belt engine mount bracket are bent and this is where the crack start and spreads into the water jacket $camera 018.jpg

$camera 019.jpg

$camera 020.jpg

so reckon this can be fixed or is it fupped?
 
shooter mcgavan said:
here are the pics.from what i can see the crack was caused by impact or a torque damper as the studs on the t belt engine mount bracket are bent and this is where the crack start and spreads into the water jacketView attachment 6735

View attachment 6736

View attachment 6737

so reckon this can be fixed or is it fupped?
Click to expand...

ouch , time for a new block it doesnt look fixable. even if u resleeved it and had the outer wall on thewater jacket fixed i still wouldnt be comfortable using it.
 
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ah rats this is going to cost me loads now.my original plan was to buy a new head gasket ,valve stem oil seals and just bolt my head on to this and there i had it 1,8 power.
now im gonna have to put the crank and rods into my block so ill have to get all new rings bearings rod bolts(no idea how to tighten new ones all this **** with stretch guages or whatever)get my bores cleaned up,dont know which pistons i should use either.**** it anyway.
 
Shooter, stuff like this is what a project car is all about, just relax, take it one step at a time, do some research on plasti gauge, strech gauge's etc and you should be able to do it all yourself :win: except the hone :D

I assume you got a killer deal on it??
 
JB weld maybe? I suppose you could smear that into both sides of the crack, then wipe of the top portion with a utility blade (you know those little hand held ones?) Then let it set for a day to it's full set time, and have the block resurfaced if you feel the gasket surface is not smooth enough. Remember this repair doesn't have to hold actual combustion compression.

I don't think that crack is that bad, we can see the crack doesn't go all the way down towards the bottom of the sleeve. I think after you repair the crack, you'd have to then change the stud(s) you said were bent.
 
You could do quite a good repair. You will need to grind out the crack about 3mm on the head face, tow it to a good alloy welder and get it welded. You could have a go at filing it down with some wet n dry on a file but you may well end up having to remove the block and get it skimmed.
If you do all this it should then be as good as new. If you do the work yourself it will just take time and only about £60 in charges.
All the best Dunx
 
I wouldn't chance welding it.. The crack looks large enough even when its cold so when it heats up thats going to expand a good bit .. And since it is coming across from the engine mount it will always be a weak point..

I say build up your b16b block , really isn't hard and nothing you cant do yourself.. all it is , is patience:nice:
 
thanks for all the replys.yes i did get a good deal the complete bottom end for 280 euros,i think was a good price considering crank rods amd pistons are all fine.this is a block i bought,luckily its not in my car!!so now my plan is to get an engineering place to look at it,tell me if its dead,if so put the internals in my block.
so is this all the parts i need;
head gasket
valve stem seals
intake mani gasket etc..
main bearings
piston rings
thrust washers
new arp rod bolts(told i can re use the stock ones?)
clean up bores.

is there anything i forgotten there or is there anything i can re use?what pistons should i use seeing ill have both itr and ctr?
 
shooter mcgavan said:
thanks for all the replys.yes i did get a good deal the complete bottom end for 280 euros,i think was a good price considering crank rods amd pistons are all fine.this is a block i bought,luckily its not in my car!!so now my plan is to get an engineering place to look at it,tell me if its dead,if so put the internals in my block.
so is this all the parts i need;
head gasket
valve stem seals
intake mani gasket etc..
main bearings
piston rings
thrust washers
new arp rod bolts(told i can re use the stock ones?)
clean up bores.

is there anything i forgotten there or is there anything i can re use?what pistons should i use seeing ill have both itr and ctr?
Click to expand...

timing belt , ten. and water pump?

Id go with ITR pistons.. CTR'S give you manic compression and gee hair valve clearence:nice:
 
oil pan gasket, and rear main seal can be added to the def need list if your tearing down everything. arp head studs arent a bad idea either.
 
oh no this is going to cost a fortune!!where be the best place to get the parts dont say honda dealer,way too dear,talkin internet sites or somethin!!
 
cant help u there. theres a bunch of oem wholesale websites in the states but im sure the shipping is gonna flat out kill it out the ireland,scotland, or uk.
ill built several bottom ends and ya its alittle depressing when all the little stuff u need adds up big time but its worth it to do right once.
 
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