NA B16B Engine Modifications


D

Dor

New Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2007
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13
Hello Everyone,
>
> I am doing some research on stroking my B16B engine. I would like to know what are your opinions on the best way to modify the engine and remaining NA. I would like to get more HP and Torque and still remain reliable. I was thinking along the lines of stroking the engine to a 1.8L then I heard about Brian Crower 2.0L stroker kit. I respect all your suggestions because of your experience and you always provide the pros and cons. I would like to know details example, type of cams, piston size, compression, throttle body, etc.. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
>
> Regards,
> Sandor
 
Could you answer these questions:

1) Are you after HP bragging rights down at your local cruise?
2) Are you after a quicker car (i.e faster acceleration)
3) What sort of max top speed do you think you will ever do?
4) Do you mind noise/vtec while on the freeway?

:)
 
Thanks for your quick response. Here are the answers to your questions.

1) Bragging rights does me no good----out of the question
2) This is priority along with reliability
3) Max speed should at least remain the same as my stock B16B
4) Noise is not an issue in my country

Thanks in advance.
 
Okay, now that 1 & 4 are done and dusted, it makes it a little easier :)

You basically have 2 choices:

Engine Modification
2) Generally speaking, more torque will make your car quicker. How much extra torque you want though will work against the reliability factor, which means more expense to get them working together properly (e.g you may need lower comp pistons to run high boost, and you will 100% need an ecu remap).
3) Max speed should only increase (upto the max potential of your tranny) with a bhp increase.

Tranny Modification:
2) Bang-for-buck, nothing (short of nitrous) can beat this. For < $1000, your car will feel like its had a stroker kit fitted (+ more) and with absolutely no detriment to reliability or emissions/laws etc
3) This is the downside. Depending on how short you go with the ratios, you could be down to just over 100mph in 5th with a rally setup, but generally, around 130ish mph with the typical street setup.

Both options have their +'s and -'s. Which one you go for ultimately depends on your budget :)
 
well if you want to stay NA and you want max power i would say nitrous, but if you dont want nitrous then its simple:

sleeve the block to 84mm, get an itr crank, eagle rods for a b18c, and some 12.5 compression pistons for a b18c, have it all assembled properly with new bearings balanced/blue printed. then something like skunk2stage2's or buddyclub IV cams and matching valvetrain. get a good EMS and have it tuned properly. if thats not enough, port the head, have it milled .020 (i hope you have access to 100+ octane fuel) get a 3 angle valve job, get an edelbrock proformer X intake manifold and retune it, 220-240whp should be possible with this set up. btw im assuming you would already have a good inudction, exhaust manifold, and exhaust system that is at least 2.75".
 
Blink9900 thanks for the information. Would it be possible to do what you suggested with the Brian Crower 2.0L stroker kit and how reliable would it be? I have to start buying parts and putting them down for when the time comes for my rebuild.

Thanks again everyone and I think I would invest in the tranny modification, gearing change asap.

Dor
 
Dor said:
Blink9900 thanks for the information. Would it be possible to do what you suggested with the Brian Crower 2.0L stroker kit and how reliable would it be? I have to start buying parts and putting them down for when the time comes for my rebuild.

Thanks again everyone and I think I would invest in the tranny modification, gearing change asap.

Dor
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i dont like either of the 2 BC stroker kits, they incease stroke a lot and that puts pressure on your cylinder walls which affects ring seal and longevity. instead i would use an acura LS crank thats been balanced with forged pistons and rods. that will give you a total displacement of 1973CC, stock b18c is 1798. or keep the stock itr crank and just go to 84mm which will give you 1933CC.
 
spoon stroker kit + ecu remap is another option, with this setup I will get a Cold air intake system (like mugen), after market header, de-cat and a bigger throttle body.

What is very very important is the ecu re map, keep in mind this.
 
Instead of the spoon stroker kit, just buy the parts directly from your Honda dealership (or someone who sells oem parts) as it will be cheaper :)
 
MFactory said:
Instead of the spoon stroker kit, just buy the parts directly from your Honda dealership (or someone who sells oem parts) as it will be cheaper :)
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NOWAY!!! thats what i used to think until i called acura for quotes, they want $1000 just for the crank!! i get 20 back since i work at a motorsports shop so thats still $800, add the pistons, rings, pins, rods, headgasket, and your at about $1800 or more, spoon sells the stuff for $1200 through opak racing:

http://www.spoonsports.us/catalog/products/civicEngineKit.htm
 
wow, when did they start selling it for so cheap?

actually, looking at the japan site, they don't list it anymore, so maybe it is just discontinued stock they are trying to get rid of?

$1200 is a good deal :)
 
m factory advice is best value by miles, seen what there gearset does first hand on stock eg6, pretty devasting but only drwaback is economy and whether you can live it day to day

i think you could use spoon stroker (used to be expensive but price dropped to quite cheap abou 2 years ago - this almost gives you itr engine - 85% there)

but this would make your car accelerate about same as doing gearset so you see which is easier to do and better value
 
blinx9900 said:
NOWAY!!! thats what i used to think until i called acura for quotes, they want $1000 just for the crank!! i get 20 back since i work at a motorsports shop so thats still $800, add the pistons, rings, pins, rods, headgasket, and your at about $1800 or more, spoon sells the stuff for $1200 through opak racing:

http://www.spoonsports.us/catalog/products/civicEngineKit.htm
Click to expand...

MFactory said:
wow, when did they start selling it for so cheap?

actually, looking at the japan site, they don't list it anymore, so maybe it is just discontinued stock they are trying to get rid of?

$1200 is a good deal :)
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You both have got to be JOKING!!!

OEM B18C crank brand new I can get for $500USD + shipping :lol: It aint expensive in Japan.
 
biggest question is, what is your budget including labor?
 
jugbugz said:
You both have got to be JOKING!!!

OEM B18C crank brand new I can get for $500USD + shipping :lol: It aint expensive in Japan.
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well we live in usa :angry: by the time i get it shipped from japan price will go up A LOT!
 
MFactory said:
Instead of the spoon stroker kit, just buy the parts directly from your Honda dealership (or someone who sells oem parts) as it will be cheaper :)
Click to expand...

Spoon stroker kit in uk is around £850 inc vat and just a ITR crank alone from the honda dealers is £1000 inc vat !!!!!!!!:shocked:
 
Yeah, the cost of their stroker kit has come down a lot from what it used to cost, my apologies :(

As for ecu, go for what your tuner has experience with and, if possible, try not to get a pre-programmed ecu (e.g Spoon). Not to say they are bad, but you can do better for less.
 
MFactory said:
Yeah, the cost of their stroker kit has come down a lot from what it used to cost, my apologies :(

As for ecu, go for what your tuner has experience with and, if possible, try not to get a pre-programmed ecu (e.g Spoon). Not to say they are bad, but you can do better for less.
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Used to run a Hondata Kpro on my EP3...does Hondate do something for EK9 ?
 
CTR_Chris said:
Used to run a Hondata Kpro on my EP3...does Hondate do something for EK9 ?
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Yea mate hondata do the s300 for the ek9 but you wont get a good as gain as you would with a kpro on a ep3 CTR ,it's a very good mod for the k20 engine my mate reckons after a decent exhaust and induction the kpro is the single best mod he's ever done to a na k20 engine
 
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