loose connection b16b swap! help needed


lumox11

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Sep 23, 2007
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im currently in the process of dropping a b16b into my ej9 1.4 sport. ive got it all in and connected and went to start it this evening.

it turns over but doesnt fire. managed to find there was no power to the fuel pump. i managed to run a live feed from the battery to the fuel pump by using a length of wire and had the engine running sweet as a nut. as soon as i lost the live connection the engine would cut out because of no fuel suuply. any ideas of what this could be.

there is one plug on the engine that i dont have a connection for(pic below) i tested the plug and it is ignition live.
can anyone recognise this plug and tell me what it does.

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it seems to go into the main wiring under the throttle body/manifold.


any suggestions appreciated

thanks
 
Hmm i got the same wire there unplugged on my Del Sol when i did the b16b swap, but the car runs fine without it Xd
wish i could help a bit more since i did same swap but mine didnt gave me any troubles :s
 
looks possibly like an IAT sensor, i cant tell without looking at my own car, IAT sensor is located on the intake manifold.
 
Did you change the complete wiring loom or just cut and join the old loom? Also did you change the fuel pump? If your using OBD1 ECU then pin 7 on connector A is the fuel pump signal wire. OBD2 its pin 16 connector A. Its a Green/yellow wire for both check this for voltage when turning ignition on. If all else fails you could wire it up using a relay switched from the igniton cause even though when you turn on the key and you hear the pump kick in for a few seconds and then knock off once the car is running the pump runs full time. Check the basics first, wires, fuses, relays etc. Hopefully you will find a easy fix:nice:
 
ive still got my internal wiring loom but im using ek9 ecu and engine loom. my car and b16b are the same year so i dont need a harness.(both year 2000).
im still using the same fuel pump!

on the other fuel pump/sender(i think its called a sender) there was a green wire running 12 volt and a yellow one running 4.6 volt. so i bridged the 12volt over to the fuel pump, which i thought would have made it live when the ignition was on therefore pumping fuel.
but when i went to start it there was nothing.

i also noticed when i was playing about with the connections that sometimes my fuel tank would be on empty and my fuel light would come on even though theres over half a tank on there.

anyway i returned it all back to how it should be and im back to square one.

i might try and run a ignition seperate live tomorrow. is there any prefferences/advice on the best place to do this?
 
ive still got my internal wiring loom but im using ek9 ecu and engine loom. my car and b16b are the same year so i dont need a harness.(both year 2000).
im still using the same fuel pump!

on the other fuel pump/sender(i think its called a sender) there was a green wire running 12 volt and a yellow one running 4.6 volt. so i bridged the 12volt over to the fuel pump, which i thought would have made it live when the ignition was on therefore pumping fuel.
but when i went to start it there was nothing.

i also noticed when i was playing about with the connections that sometimes my fuel tank would be on empty and my fuel light would come on even though theres over half a tank on there.

anyway i returned it all back to how it should be and im back to square one.

i might try and run a ignition seperate live tomorrow. is there any prefferences/advice on the best place to do this?

As far as I know that green wire your on about is the fuel float sensing wire for your fuel gauge leave that well alone. Did you check that there is a ground (-) at the pump?
 
Look behind the intake manifold and onto the PAS. there should be a connector there that works with ELD, (i.e. revs the engine up a tad when it detects you turning the steering wheel!

Thats what that connections for:nice: green and black wire?
 
as for your fuel pump, start from the source, check fuse, check relay, test relay. check voltage coming out of relay when IGN=on. Thats your first point of call, making sure its getting juice. if theres no voltage coming out of the relay then you want to check the input signal.

When you say fuel-sender, do you mean at the tank???
..when your looking at the top of the tank with the inspection cover removed, the round access panel is for the fuel-pump and its live feed (chassis earth) then you have the feed and return pipes.
Adjacent to that is the fuel sender-unit, to test its funcitoning correctly you check the resistance, putting power to it wont do it any favours.
 
im running an ignition live wire from the fuse box now.

when i can stop driving my car for a while im going to have a real good scout around to try and solve the problem properly. no problems apart from that, mint running engine im loving it.
how can you drive them normal?? i cant stop revving it at the moment!

thanks for all the advice and help

thanks
 
im running an ignition live wire from the fuse box now.

when i can stop driving my car for a while im going to have a real good scout around to try and solve the problem properly. no problems apart from that, mint running engine im loving it.
how can you drive them normal?? i cant stop revving it at the moment!

thanks for all the advice and help

thanks

Well atleast you got it all up and running. I know what you mean by cant stop revving it vtec is so addictive :D
 
Bumping an old thread as I have the same issue with the fuel pump. Relay is fine, tried it on a known working car, fuses are all good and it has a live feed.

It's going into a facelift ek3, looked at the ecu pin outs around and my loom looks nothing like them!

I have a pink in a13! It's a facelift ek9 ecu from jap performance parts so I know it's good, when getting a straight feed from the battery, the pump works so i know that's fine.

I'm assuming that it's not getting a trigger from the ecu in this case, tried swapping the pin a15 to a16 and that hasn't worked either!

Anyone got any ideas? Short of changing ecu as that's the only other thing I can think of, bar running an ignition live but wouldn't this just keep the fuel pump running constantly if on the ignition is on?
 
...Anyone got any ideas? Short of changing ecu as that's the only other thing I can think of, bar running an ignition live but wouldn't this just keep the fuel pump running constantly if on the ignition is on?

Above Vtec6000 wrote: If all else fails you could wire it up using a relay switched from the igniton cause even though when you turn on the key and you hear the pump kick in for a few seconds and then knock off once the car is running the pump runs full time.
 
Saw that dude, i was refering to keeping it OEM rather than making it work by other means.

As the above has done, i have a wire running to an ignition live source but would rather keep it to how it should be!

Interesting point is that the green/yellow wire DOES NOT have any voltage, have checked continuity from fuel pump and from ecu and is all good....
 
really? i thought EK9 ecu's had no immobilisers?

How do i get round this? As far as i knew it was running in another car that wasn't an ek9...
 
Its a very basic immobiliser, as far as i remember you just ground out the fuel pump pin from the ecu and the pump runs constantly, its been a while since Ive done that swap.
 
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