Interesting Oil Facts #3


Hmm, strange how the NISSAN GTR uses Mobil 1...

I'm using Castrol EDGE 0W-40 and 5W-30.

One question... would it be right to say, a 30 viscosity oil would heat up quicker than a 40? Lets use the 2 grades I mentioned above as example...

I'm quering this because, I would like my car to heat up to operating temps quicker in Winter. In summer I just use 0W-40.
 
jugbugz said:
Hmm, strange how the NISSAN GTR uses Mobil 1...

I'm using Castrol EDGE 0W-40 and 5W-30.

One question... would it be right to say, a 30 viscosity oil would heat up quicker than a 40? Lets use the 2 grades I mentioned above as example...

I'm quering this because, I would like my car to heat up to operating temps quicker in Winter. In summer I just use 0W-40.
Click to expand...

Yes and no, it will heat up quicker but all SAE grades are measured at 100degc anyway.

Cheers

Guy.
 
I have used Mobil 1 0-40 in my EK9 since I got it and it burns absolutely no oil at all. Its a high mileage motor too. I uses vtec regularly and also long motorway journeys. Personally having used countless different oils over the years in Honda's and have found this one to be one of the best.

Just wanted to put my experience forward and have no idea why others would burn so much.
 
Ive no idea why some enigne use it over others, its something I have certainly noticed selling it against others.

Tis good stuff though:nice:
 
Yeh my car hardly uses any mobil 1 0-40 to m8. i dont know why b16mini is getting all serious i only asked a simple question, all it required was a yes or no. cheers anyway oilman
 
What would you recommend for a B16A2 that is driven fairly hard with track use and trips to the nurburgring. I currently use Castrol magnatec.

Also recommendations for a B18C as i will be changing to this. Thanks
 
Rich777 said:
Yeh my car hardly uses any mobil 1 0-40 to m8. i dont know why b16mini is getting all serious i only asked a simple question, all it required was a yes or no. cheers anyway oilman
Click to expand...
guess i was a bit harsh on it, but my statement was based on experience of it, not just having a go for the sake of it!
i think you can get better oils for your money...i'm a silkoline pro s person :D
and as stated in the earlier posts they were clever with there advertising which i think is a bit cheeky lol.
 
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ijwhiteman said:
What would you recommend for a B16A2 that is driven fairly hard with track use and trips to the nurburgring. I currently use Castrol magnatec.

Also recommendations for a B18C as i will be changing to this. Thanks
Click to expand...


If you are beating the car on road and track then the Magnatec is not the ideal choice, its just not up to the job.

5w-40 synthetic is the way to go, which one depends on budget and how good you want to go. The best are the ester based synthetics of the Silkolene Pro S, Motul 300v and Redline.

Opie Oils - Oil Recommendations Specialists | Find the right Engine Oil & Performance Products

Cheers

Guy.
 
I guess the answer is highly complex. I think as long as the oil of your choice works for you and fits within the EK9 acquirements then use it.
 
oilman said:
If you are beating the car on road and track then the Magnatec is not the ideal choice, its just not up to the job.

5w-40 synthetic is the way to go, which one depends on budget and how good you want to go. The best are the ester based synthetics of the Silkolene Pro S, Motul 300v and Redline.

Opie Oils - Oil Recommendations Specialists | Find the right Engine Oil & Performance Products

Cheers

Guy.
Click to expand...

Excellent thanks you.

I understand that better oils do not need changing as frequently is that correct. currently i am aiming to change my magnatec every 3000miles. Also what does the W stand for. You recommended 5w 40 i use 10w 40 what is the difference.

Thanks Ian
 
Yes, decent synthetic oils will be happy to 10,000 miles + or once a year, which ever comes first.

The W stands for winter and is the viscosity oil when it is cold, the lower the number the more fluid it is at cold temps.

Viscosity is the most misunderstood aspect of oil and yet it is the most important.

Viscosity is the force required to shear (break) the oil at a certain speed and temperature. Oils work because they have viscosity; the drag of a rotating part pulls oil from a low-pressure area into a high pressure area and “floats” the surfaces apart. This is called “hydrodynamic lubrication” and crank bearings depend on it.

Oil must be capable of flowing at low temperatures, so that it gets around the engine in a fraction of a second at start-up and must protect engine components at high temperatures without evaporating or carbonising and maintain adequate oil pressure.

The numbers on every can of oil indicate its performance characteristics when new but there are many misconceptions on what these numbers actually mean.

For multigrade oils you will see two numbers (for monograde oils only one). The first is followed by a “w” and is commonly 0, 5, 10, 15 or 20. The second number is always higher than the first and is commonly 20, 30, 40, 50 or 60.

The first and second numbers ARE NOT related.

The “w” number (0, 5, 10, 15 or 20)

When multigrade oils first appeared, a low temperature test called “w” (meaning “winter” not weight) was introduced.

Using a “Cold Crank Simulator, the test measures the oils ability to flow at low temperatures.

ALL oils are THICKER at low temperatures than at high temperatures but the lower the “w” number, the quicker the oil will flow at low temperatures.

The second number (20, 30, 40, 50 or 60)

This number is known as the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) number and is measured in “Centistokes” (cst) at 100degC.

Centistokes (cst) is the measure of a fluid's resistance to flow (viscosity). It is calculated in terms of the time required for a standard quantity of fluid at a certain temperature to flow through a standard orifice. The higher the value, the thicker the oil.

An oils cst at 100degC determines it’s SAE rating within the following parameters.

SAE 20 = 5.6 to less than 9.3cst
SAE 30 = 9.3 to less than 12.5cst
SAE 40 = 12.5 to less than 16.3cst
SAE 50 = 16.3 to less than 21.9cst
SAE 60 = 21.9 to less than 26.0cst

a decent oil always falls in the middle of the spec so an SAE 40 will be around 14cst.

ALL oils labelled 40 must fall within the SAE parameters at 100degC so everything from a monograde 40 to multigrade 0w-40, 5w-40, 10w-40, 15w-40 are the same thickness at 100degC.

Summary

Cold start.

A 5w-40 will flow better than a 10w-40.
A 10w-50 will flow better than a 15w-50
A 5w-40 is the same as a 5w-30

At operating temperatures.

A 10w-50 is thicker than a 10w-40.
A 15w-50 is thicker than a 5w-40
A 0w-40 is the same as a 10w-40

Multigrades offer flexibility but manufacturers recommended viscosities should be observed unless modifications have been made that affect engine temperatures or the car is being used off road.

Cheers

Guy.
 
so, for someone that likes to get some performace/high rev, what would be the best at operating temp. an oil that has a low viscosity, to lubricate the cylinder walls quickly and fast ? or a high viscosity that lubricate slowly but more oils adhere to the walls

i have the opinion that... higher viscosity = more oil on walls = more resistance when the cylinder goes down. And low viscosity = less oil on walls = less resistance when the cylinder goes down. However, theres kind of a mid point between having enought oil to lubricate the wall correctly, and no too much to create a high resistance.

What you think Oilman

~Yan
 
oilman: Thats really good info! Definitely clears up some of the different views on viscosity.

So a 0W would provide the best protection at start up and viscosity when hot just depends on your applicaton?

Is it also true that a thicker oil creates an internal drag? I've always had the impression that 30 would be good for the street and 40 on the track. This ofcourse is based on our Type R engines...

Thanks
 
Your thinking is correct, though in the uk there is not a huge amount of difference between 0w and 5w.

Cheers

Guy.
 
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