Help with IACV issue.


C

civicduty_

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Joined
May 28, 2008
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174
I recently purchased a B16B swap and unfortuentely the IACV is pretty much no good. Found some aluminum metal shavings in it so I put it aside for replacement.
DSCF0128.jpg


A buddy of mine gave me a spare that he had said it if off an "Acura Integra LS". The obvious difference is in the diameter of the air inlets. Not entirely sure what motor its from though.
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I've installed the motor and rewired the original wiring harness or engine loom exactly according to Helmes Honda manual. I'm 100% sure the wiring is not an issue yet I still got a code 14 for the IACV.

A neighbor if mine then let me borrow another IACV said it was off of a Honda Civic Si B16A2 but ironically it was the same in every aspect to the "LS IACV".

Is using a different style IACV the culprit here? There is no doubt in my mind that these sensors are 100% operational as they were both removed from properly working engines.

One doubt that I have is poor circulation with the coolant. Reason being is that before the initial startup the radiator was really the only thing filled with the coolant system which is 1 gallon, the complete system I was told takes around 2 gallons. Can poor circulation of the cooling system affect idle properties via the IACV?

Another question I had was this...if infact using a different style IACV is the issue then does anyone know any other USDM motor that uses the same style IACV without any issues?

I found this one from a 94-97 Honda Accord V6 that looks identical to the Oem CTR piece.
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I really don't feel like ordering a brand new IACV from Honda Japan as i'm sure it will be very costly. Any replies to this thread are greatly appreciated! Thanks. :nice:
 
if you want to re-use it then tape a small pipe onto the end of a vac and suck the alu parts out then try it. either that or totally strip it down and clean/inspect

as for the re-wire if your refering to the 3wire / 2wire fix....

obd2a you move a14 to a12 and remove a13
obd2b you move b6 to b23 and remove b15......from the harness connectors
 
Thanks EK9turbo for your reply.

I used an obd2a - obd2b jumper harness so the crossover is taken care of there. I no longer have the original iacv as I lost patience with it and pretty much disected it. I'm working on the car right now still getting a code 14 for the iacv so i'll update any progress.
 
EK9turbo said:
if you want to re-use it then tape a small pipe onto the end of a vac and suck the alu parts out then try it. either that or totally strip it down and clean/inspect

as for the re-wire if your refering to the 3wire / 2wire fix....

obd2a you move a14 to a12 and remove a13
obd2b you move b6 to b23 and remove b15......from the harness connectors
Click to expand...

I doubled back to this post as it was the only one posted and found that the jumper harness I purchased had not "taken care" of this conversion as I had previously stated. Performed the switch-over as per EK9turbo and the idling very much improved but not 100% satisfied with it. It did however get rid of the CEL. Ty Sir!

Now I have a new issue. The motor will not revolve beyond 3000-3500 rpm after full warm up. I've read this to be a "safe/limp mode".
Is this because of the previous code 14 that must be reset? Anyone experience this before and found solution?

A definete issue I have yet to correct is a vacuum leak in which the brass nipple was broken off during shipping. It is the one circled on the picture provided and I don't know what to do with it or where it goes or even if its connected to this safe/limp mode experiance.

purgesolenoid.jpg

* IM belongs to an OBD1 Honda.

Picture includes a Purge Solenoid connected to this vacuum line, do B16B engines come equipped with these in stock trim?
 
im acutally having the same problem kinda. that brass fitting is broken and no hose attached. i dont know what it is or what it does or what to do with it!
 
buddhazchild said:
im acutally having the same problem kinda. that brass fitting is broken and no hose attached. i dont know what it is or what it does or what to do with it!
Click to expand...

Hey listen buddhazchild, i've tried connecting that IM "mystery vacuum line" directly to the charcoal canister spout at the TB and the revolutions subside significantly but think twice about this connection because then i'd run the risk of getting a CEL for evap canister malf. or excessive fuel tank pressure, something to that effect.

tb_sensors.jpg

*Charcoal canister spout pictured here next to idle screw.

As far as fixing the broken nipple should be as easy as removing the IM tapping into the hole and inserting a new one but I want to first know where it leads to as plugging this vacuum up kills the motor. T'ing that vacuum line with the charcoal canister spout and the charcoal canister kills the motor too.

Hope that helps you any. BUMP!
 
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Hmm thats probably where it belongs then unless someone can intervene. The B16B I have you see is not original to the chassis and the original D16Y7 before it wasn't equipped w/cruise control either so i'm waiting on someone to reply to this matter. Keep me posted. Thanks!
 
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Is your motor in safe/limp mode too? I can't rev past 3k in nuetral and I haven't attempted to drive it as its not 100% operational. I have no CEL's/MIL's which is the weird part.
 
Ok well looks like i've advanced somewhat in this situation of mine. The IACV CEL was on because I had over-looked a very crucial step when converting my non-vtec harness into a vtec harness.

wiring_96-98_a-plug.jpg


Performing this step allowed the ECM to control the IACV and allow it to function as it should.

On to the Safe-Mode problem. When checking the TPS I noticed that the volts were not up to par. At first I thought the sensor was bad but then noticed the MAP harness plug looking identical to the TPS harness plug. Apparently I had them switched. :angry: Correcting this blunder allowed the engine free rpm range.

I have a new issue tho. One that I have yet to solve. I have a CEL but when I jump the service connector to attempt to diagnose the CEL remains steady and never initiates any sort of blinking(which it has done before with the IACV CEL). I've used three different OBD2 scanners and none are able to communicate with the ECM?

When checking the ignition timing at 16TDC, as the motor is warming up it begins to retard and retard timing untill at one point the exhaust begins to run rich. Idle fuel pressure is at 33psi.

Any ideas or similar problems? :((
 
And another thing...can anyone tell me which of the two dizzy's a B16B motor should come with?

96-98dizzy.jpg


99-00dizzy.jpg


No guessing please, thanks in advance.
 
First off all, the canister littel selenoid is a EVAP, with the vacum line to the trottel directly to the canister, preventes to overflow the canister with gaz vapors...the selenoid will act like a switch to liberate these gazes troghout the TB plugged hose! don´t worry just plug it like oem!

For the cell, first off all clear it...then first thing to do is loop the conector and see....your in safe mode, so put your dizzy to 16degres and don´t touch it anymore! If a cel cames when you pull out the loop of the connector then you will start troubleshooting!

One thing, your car is originaly a obd2 A or B? and the b16b you put?
 
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pumpingiron said:
First off all, the canister littel selenoid is a EVAP, with the vacum line to the trottel directly to the canister, preventes to overflow the canister with gaz vapors...the selenoid will act like a switch to liberate these gazes troghout the TB plugged hose! don´t worry just plug it like oem!
Click to expand...

As far as this is concerned, all vacuum hoses have been corrected so no worries there.

pumpiniron said:
For the cell, first off all clear it...then first thing to do is loop the conector and see....your in safe mode, so put your dizzy to 16degres and don´t touch it anymore! If a cel cames when you pull out the loop of the connector then you will start troubleshooting!
Click to expand...

I think you misread or misunderstood my previous post when I say that the problem is that whether I jump or loop the service connector or connect an OBD2 scanner I am unable to communicate w/the ecm. So technically I cannot begin by "clearing the cel" as you recommend. My problem is that I can't pull the code or delete it.

pumpiniron said:
One thing, your car is originaly a obd2 A or B? and the b16b you put?
Click to expand...

Civic is obd2a, B16B is obd2b. Original engine harness has been updated with appropriate sensors and a jumper harness has been added to convert from obd2a>obd2b.

Thanks for your reply.
 
Well deleting a cel you dont need to "comunicate" to your ecm, trought the reset procedure(usualy taking out de fuse to ECU and/or hazard fuse during at least 10 secondes) you will reset the ECU and cells!

Then you will loop right a way the connector and se if the check engine light goes on, if not, check the light it self(we never know) then trouble shoot for ECM failure!

Keep us updated i love electrical troubleshooting!
 
civicduty_ said:
Hey listen buddhazchild, i've tried connecting that IM "mystery vacuum line" directly to the charcoal canister spout at the TB and the revolutions subside significantly but think twice about this connection because then i'd run the risk of getting a CEL for evap canister malf. or excessive fuel tank pressure, something to that effect.

tb_sensors.jpg

*Charcoal canister spout pictured here next to idle screw.

As far as fixing the broken nipple should be as easy as removing the IM tapping into the hole and inserting a new one but I want to first know where it leads to as plugging this vacuum up kills the motor. T'ing that vacuum line with the charcoal canister spout and the charcoal canister kills the motor too.

Hope that helps you any. BUMP!
Click to expand...


wow...i like this one

very nicey:clap:
 
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