Funkypowers Stage 2 Ek4 package


D

dogzy101

New Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2008
Messages
73
Hey folks,

Im running a ek4 97 civic vti (b16a2) engine, I havent modded the engine in anyway apart from an AEM v2 cold air long arm intake, also got a Full mongoose de-cat exhaust system. So im gonna be looking at getting a good but fairly priced Manifold (5zigen more than likely)

after that i'll be looking at changing some engine internals, so i was browsing a came across this

FUNKY POWER - Europe's Leading Online Japanese Car Specialist

Im not too clued up on engine internals, and i dont want to spend '**** loads' but i want quality internals

So now to the questions...

1. Does that seem like a good price for the products its offering?

2. is Skunk2 quality stuff?

3. How much will labour cost to get it all fitted?

4. After the 5zigen mainfold, AEM v2 Air intake and that stage 2 package will the car be ok on standard clutch, gear box etc?

5. Obviously i know a remapped ecu will be needed to get the best possibly performance out of the mods but would it still run ok on the stock ecu? would i see some good gains?

Thanks guys
Dogzy
 
lol

Is it a straight drop in into the ek4? dont have to fiddle around abit with the engine mounts or owt?

Wouldnt i have to change my clutch, gearbox etc with that engine coversion?
 
dogzy101 said:
lol

1)Is it a straight drop in into the ek4?

2)dont have to fiddle around abit with the engine mounts or owt?

3)Wouldnt i have to change my clutch, gearbox etc with that engine coversion?
Click to expand...

1) yes

2) no

3) no, but you should. Any time we do a engine swap, we take all precautions in terms of changing the timing belt, the tensioner, the rear main seal, the water pump, clutch and flywheel.

While we're at it, we normally also change the LSD, final drive and diff carrier bearings along with the input shaft bearings and axle seals. While still under the car, shifting bushings are changed and the shifter itself is lubricated and for a final touch, we add magnetic drain plugs.
 
Nope i dropped an 18C into my EK4 no problems at all. Bare in mind B16B uses effectivley the same chassis the EK9. Depending on mileage i would suggest doing the clutch and fly while your there.
 
ijwhiteman said:
Nope i dropped an 18C into my EK4 no problems at all. Bare in mind B16B uses effectivley the same chassis the EK9. Depending on mileage i would suggest doing the clutch and fly while your there.
Click to expand...

So realistically your probably looking at £2000 + for the engine, clutch and fly and labour? :shocked:
 
RagingAngel said:
1) yes

2) no

3) no, but you should. Any time we do a engine swap, we take all precautions in terms of changing the timing belt, the tensioner, the rear main seal, the water pump, clutch and flywheel.

While we're at it, we normally also change the LSD, final drive and diff carrier bearings along with the input shaft bearings and axle seals. While still under the car, shifting bushings are changed and the shifter itself is lubricated and for a final touch, we add magnetic drain plugs.
Click to expand...

Raging you seem to know your stuff! Could you have a pop at answering the questions on my original post! Thanks mate :nice::nice:
 
No

Engine £1200
B16B/B18C Genuine Clutch £240
Supe Karui Fly £120
Labour £300 worst case

£1860

Cambelt and tensioner was changed at 68,000 miles

If you buy that tuning package You have

Reliablity issues....
You'll need and ECU and full remap Thats easily £1100
You'll need labour to get it fitted.
Ideally higher compression head gasket

Trust me i've been down this road and engine swap for me was the better option. And if you get bored theres still more potential with the engine swap to take it further. For example B16B is easily transformed into an 18C with a stroker kit....
 
b16b for £1200 is nothing short of a BERGAIN
 
dogzy101 said:
Raging you seem to know your stuff! Could you have a pop at answering the questions on my original post! Thanks mate :nice::nice:
Click to expand...

basically everything ijwhiteman has said is true.

I think marketing has done a lot to reel people into buying things they don't need (wow...captain obvious here) and it's been really tough for companies like ours that specialize in gearing to make effective comparisons when there's no glorious dyno charts that show these gains that gearing makes.

I know from personal experience that my DC2-R fitted with a 4.785 final drive, alum flywheel, decat and AEM V1 intake is faster than a half gutted EK9 with an 18C with full I/H/E and hondata. Despite the car making more power on the dyno, I had the obvious advantage because I am making use of the power.

The only downside to gearing is people often balk about how high the rpms have gotten when cruising on the motorway. I used to feel the same way too, but it's a Honda - designed to have 8000rpm at your disposal. 4000-5000rpm cruising ain't going to hurt it and if you find it annoying because it's too buzzy... well. Get some cams and be slow :p
 
Go b16b less headache's and there a great engine. That is a good deal ijwhiteman is offering
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top