Ek9 ignition coil / dizzy


B16Swt

B16Swt

Carguydiaries
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Ek9
Hello all,
I've just fitted an new inlet manifold and TB to my ek9, all went ok, started up first time, idled for about a minute then cut out and wouldn't start again...
Injectors are working so it's getting fuel (plugs wet)
But I'm getting no spark. I've got 12v to the coil and the negative side of the coil is getting a signal from the hall sensor.
I've measured the resistance across the coil and it's 0.74 ohms.
I'm pretty sure the coil is buggered but any input would be great.


 
Then again I just tested the resistance again and it was 300plus ohms! Think I better find a dizzy or coil
 
I may have a spare coil you could try, although I'd prefer to sell my dizzy if I can save you money....
 
Coils are about £16 from jap service parts,
 
Well guys I diagnosed the fault and fixed it!

It was the coil, I managed to get one through work.

I tested the new coil compared to the old and the old coil had lost half its resistance! Hence no spark.

To Test...
If you use a multimeter and set it to ohms, put one lead on to the positive or negative terminal and the other onto the output of the coil.
If your coil is good you should get a resistance of around 15.75kilo ohms so that's 15750 ohms.
My knackered coil was 8000 ohms.

I did other tests before this that lead me to test the coil which are as follows.

Remove dizzy cap, rotor arm and plastic housing to expose the coil and hall sensor etc.

First test if you have 12v at the coil, so turn the ignition on. Then use a multimeter set to Volts DC, put the red lead into the positive side of the coil and the black to any chassis earth.
You should get a battery voltage reading.

Second test is to check the negative side of the coil is getting a pulse from the hall sensor.
For this I used an ossiliscope, but you could possibly use a test light with an earth function.
For this test you need to set the ossiliscope to a scale where you can see the waveform clearly, I used a 2-5 second delay on a 20v scale.
Place the black lead to chassis earth and the red lead to the negative side of the coil, then crank the engine.
You should see a waveform consistent peak and trough squarish waveform.

If you need to I can provide pictures of needed.

In my case I had battery voltage at the positive, so I knew there were no fuses gone etc.
And I have a good waveform / hall sensor.

So was all pointing towards testing the coil.

Also in the original post with the multimeter reading of 0.74 ohms is just a continuity check across the contacts.

Sorry for the boring lingo but you never know it might help someone else one day.
 
Last edited:
Good info,
If you wanted to make a new thread on how to test the coil and post in the how to guides section it would be good

I'm sure it would come in handy for a few people, coil failure does seem fairly common now days
 
b16 mini said:
Good info,
If you wanted to make a new thread on how to test the coil and post in the how to guides section it would be good

I'm sure it would come in handy for a few people, coil failure does seem fairly common now days
Click to expand...

Thanks man, Yeh I'll do that. I get pictures up of the tests too.
 
Chancing my luck here.. But since we're on the topic of dizzys.. does anyone know how to repair or replace a cyp sensor in the distributor?
 
patrickforde said:
Chancing my luck here.. But since we're on the topic of dizzys.. does anyone know how to repair or replace a cyp sensor in the distributor?
Click to expand...
You wouldn't be able to repair the sensor, other than the wiring to and from it. You could replace it though.
 
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