caliper & rotor comparison (r32,r33 & ek9)


moon... if u could be so kind to installa an ek9 rim to that and see what is the problem in fitment.
 
freewilly said:
moon... if u could be so kind to installa an ek9 rim to that and see what is the problem in fitment.
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i don have a ek9 rim with me now; but my mech has a set of 15" buddyclub p1 racing rim. mebbe i can get him to install tat in.
 
thenphilsays said:
Moon, if this is successful for you, please let me know how much it would cost to get the same brackets you have for the r32 gts-t caliper setup. I have two sets of these calipers and would love to install them on an ITR and EK9 that I have. I really appreciate this information. I'm sure this is on behalf of all of us who wish to do the same. Thanks.
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sure phil; actually i've already got a costing on my side.
but its in RM (ringgit malaysia) exchange rate USD 3.5

r32caliper + rotors + pads = rm400 (USD 115)
bracket fabrication = rm470 (USD 135)
labour = rm280 (USD 80)
total = RM1150 (USD 329)

there's a few hidden cost; brake fluid isnt included yet. and as well as brake hoses. not sure if my current hoses can be reused.
but end of the project; i'll give u guise a final breakdown.
 
moon* said:
i don have a ek9 rim with me now; but my mech has a set of 15" buddyclub p1 racing rim. mebbe i can get him to install tat in.
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If the P1 racing wheel is 45mm offset it will not clear the stock EK9 caliper anyway. It's the shape of the spokes that's the problem with that wheel.
 
RagingAngel said:
If the P1 racing wheel is 45mm offset it will not clear the stock EK9 caliper anyway. It's the shape of the spokes that's the problem with that wheel.
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i m not sure wat offset the p1 racing is but i m pretty sure he has it on his converted ek9 5 lugs.
 
only thing with teh nissan stuff is although the calliper is lighter the disc is much heavier so teh totals add up to a 200g gain for the full conversion, spoon callipers and ek9 discs still offer the lightest solution and greatest reduction in unsprung weight
 
olly ek9 said:
only thing with teh nissan stuff is although the calliper is lighter the disc is much heavier so teh totals add up to a 200g gain for the full conversion, spoon callipers and ek9 discs still offer the lightest solution and greatest reduction in unsprung weight
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well initially my plans was to go spoon :p but the cost to get a spoon is uber expensive over here in kl. o_O"

jst for the caliper alone; without pads n rotor ; it cost around 4-5k :sweat:

but the rotors i m using is OEM cast iron rotor; if i was to swap a aftermarket rotor; i believe it would be much lighter.

n oh yea.. my fren made a stop at my mech to service his car; n he took some pix.





 
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i jst collected my car and to be honest; it wasnt wat i thought it would felt like.

first impression; i felt abit spongy but the pressure is there and it doesnt seem to be biting.

i was told to let it run in for a couple of days more. my fren whom had his caliper upgrade to r33 also sed it took him about a week b4 the bite settle in.

is that normal for tis case?? wat about u guise; those that have spoon 4 pot upgraded b4? did it take u awhile b4 it started to bite hard. or it instantly jst did the job?

=====

i've asked around in forums and frens of mine whom they have completely upgraded their brakes took at least a week b4 it started to really perform, i guess for tis 1 week, i jst need to monitor the result :)

will keep ya all updated :D

oh yea.. cross my fingers and WISH ME LUCK!
 
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how was the system bled? What method was used?

When I put the Spoon calipers on my car, the setup was rock solid from the very first application of the pedal.
 
RagingAngel said:
how was the system bled? What method was used?

When I put the Spoon calipers on my car, the setup was rock solid from the very first application of the pedal.
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hi ragingangel; the system is bled via the pump.

gotta head back home from work now. already 8.24pm here.

continue tomorrow; mebbe i'll take some pix of the old hat.
 
hey ragingangel; the rotor hat/bell u were refering to; is that wat u'r refering to the pix below??

if yes; den both the ek9 rotor n r32 rotor is 2.5cm

dsc02088o.jpg


n tis is the pic i taken tis morning. have yet to wash my car.
dsc02089lb.jpg


the brake is biting now. its getting more responsive n bites harder now too..
i guess its the running in part?

regarding about the vac bleeding. my car is a RHD and my master cylinder is on the right side.
so the process of bleeding is.

(1)FR, FL, RL, RR??
OR
(2)FR, FL, RR, RL??
 
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Thanks for the picture moon!

Regarding the brake bleeding procedure - if your car has ABS, I suspect the bleeding process should be

1) FR, FL, RL, RR

I say this only because on a LHD ITR with ABS, the procedure is

1) FL, FR, RR, RL

But so far, I have not been able to confirm this is proper or not despite my logical deduction... I will submit an inquiry to a friend in Japan or perhaps dig around online some more....
 
hi ragingangel;

wat if my car doesnt have ABS?? is it the same method still?? FR FL RL RR??

during tis bleeding process; the engine should be off right; wats the difference if its left on?? the oil gets all pump out?? -.-"
 
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The car doesn't have to be on. Leaving the car on serves no purpose.

On cars with no ABS - I would generally feel pretty confident about this sequence here:

http://www.ek9.org/forum/brakes/4190-bleeding-brakes-info.html

Since it's a 4 piston caliper, are you bleeding the inside pistons first? The ones closest to the engine?

I have been told that is the proper way to bleed my Spoon calipers, I should think that applies to all 4 piston designs.
 
just leave the ignition on so that the abs pump primes, this is commonplace on bleeding cars with abs,,

main thing to remeber whilst bleeding brakes is that the handbrake must be off, i have seen this happen many times,, (just make sure teh car is adequatley chocked or restrained so it cant run away whilst your working on it,,,
 
thanks for the bleeding info :) i tink i'll try the vac bleeding with teflon tape over the weekend once my work is all finish.

@ thenphilsays; hehe ofcourse.. more pots the better :D
so far; its biting pretty much better den yesterday when i first got it.
hopefully running in more plus proper bleeding again wit the vac n teflon i get better result.
the braking power is one important factor the other is the cost too.
my conversion here cost me about rm1.2k :)
purchasing the spoon caliper ALONE without new rotor and pads cost RM4.5k!!!!! >.<"
i know; the price is crazily high here..

so far as of now.. the difference i felt when i press hard on the pedal; i m thrown forward from my seat and if really hard enuff; i can feel my car fish tailing out >.<"

the only thing now is that i m feeling abit of spongy when i press the brakes; could it be the OEM rubber hose i m using plus the improper bleeding?

oh yea;; n 1 more thing; the OEM rubber hose i m using (EK9) do u tink it could have a difference in volume size?? i mean the thickness?? cos for my r32 caliper; i m still using the ek9 hoses. cos it fits.
 
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thenphilsays said:
The EK9 hose fits the R32 caliper without modification? I think braided lines will make all of the difference, at least that is what my friends say all of the time. Supposedly, it is a "Night and Day" difference.
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YUP; no modification; jst PLUG n PLAY according to my mech. i dont see any additional charges stating new brake hose either

well.. if the difference in the braided hose is day n nite; man. i swear i m gonna try it once i have the time n money to swap new hose and one shot do a proper bleeding. :nice:
 
will the brake proportional valve be able to supply the same amout of fluid as b4?

and why are we not recommended to installa wheel spacers? what are the cons?
 
Are you running the original master cylinder?
 
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