B16B NA build


RagingAngel,

I checked out the Edelbrock Honda Turbo Kit (performers x) and it seems pretty nice. Plus price is only $4400. Now question is, to run this set up safely with my motor, what exactly needs to be changed ?
 
I guess to be more precise, turbo kit producing 220hp on the chassis dyno for Si, and 250 for GSR, do I really need to change out my piston ?
 
I guess to be more precise, turbo kit producing 220hp on the chassis dyno for Si, and 250 for GSR, do I really need to change out my piston ?

Changing out the pistons are not necessary but it would be ideal if you plan to boost higher in the future.

For the moment, you could get away with running ARP headstuds and a thicker head gasket from cometic to drop the compression to around 10:1.
 
this might sound stupid but doing a b20 w/b16b head (B20Vtec)setup wouldnt this be alot cheaper than stroking the b16b? any input please... give me input cause im looking to go NA on My EK4:nice::drive:
 
ok just my 2 cents between K and B series
i have been experience with b16a,b16b,b18c R & b20b
the most cost effective for b series was going like this
get a b16b block re sleeve & stroke to 1.8(87.2mm storke) with 86 mm piston 12.5:1 CR(still maintain 1.6 series :))
GSR Head good port job,peformer X intake will good idea among i tested(skunk2,ITR,BLOX)
70MM throttle body buddy club spec 5/skunk2 pro 3 CAM, Cam Gear
CROME/Hondata s300 good enough for B series Engine
OS/Ogura/ATS/Exedy hyper/Super SIngle Clutch

and you will simply hit 220 WHP& 21.++ kg torque at dyno jet

Close ratio might Help you alot to simply hit 12s quarter mile with 2400-2500 LBS body Weight but you will start suffer when you on highway with 80MPH just feel like need more gear to shift up

and now i give up on B series and just did a k series swap on my EK hatch with k24a with type s 6 speed 4.3 gearbox and its more comfort to drive and hit 12s also and the cost was 90% same to built in b series but i can get more WHP and 25kg/mm torque and better GAS mileage,better throttle respond cause lots of torque and top speed can go for 170 MPH and i start release the pedal :) no heart feeling just my 2 cents
 
this might sound stupid but doing a b20 w/b16b head (B20Vtec)setup wouldnt this be alot cheaper than stroking the b16b? any input please... give me input cause im looking to go NA on My EK4:nice::drive:

If all you're really looking to do is get a little more torque for daily driving and aren't concerned with long term durability or intend to rev it past 8000rpm - then yes.

The B20B/Z motors depending on where your source is USDM or JDM will have compression that varies but neither of which will be more than 10:1.

The rotating assembly of the B20 also does not have a block girdle for high rpm operation, nor does it have under piston oil jets for cooling. These two bits, in my opinion along with the factory oil cooler (which you can scavenge from the 16B) are essential if you want reliable high rpm operation.

The cost to do these mods along with higher compression pistons (might as well since you have it all apart) puts the price of a properly built B20 right near or above a stroked 16B.

Again, though I am biased to gearing, there is much essential truth in how it would be much more cost effective and real world faster if you were to install a set of close ratio gears or even a final drive if budget is your primary concern but desire measurable performance gains.
 
Its about 20000 over thousand Ringgit Malaysia...40000 over HKD..Ragingangel
Dcloo's ek is famous in our country...heheh...
 
Compared to what guys are paying in the states, that's almost 50% off....

I'm guessing it's already equipped with a K-Pro and decent header?
 
i think no.... in malaysia.. we import chop car from japan... if it come wit extra performance parts, need to pay more...
How about hong kong? i been HK, seen ek ther once oni...
 
I live in trinidad and K's are quite hard to source and very expensive....if i could have gotten one for like 3500 USD i'd take it now
 
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