B16B NA build


T

Taeim

Vroom
Joined
Aug 27, 2008
Messages
20
Hi all,

I just got my B16B engine swap to put in my 00 US Spec EJ and was wondering how would YOU set it up (NA) to have enough hp/t to run 12's 1/4 miles. Based on my search, stroking the motor is the way to go..but exactly what parts would you use ? I just want to get an idea before I start ordering my engine components. Since it is going to be a daily ride, emmision control components must stay too. ( I have 93 FD as my weekend ride. Just need a little faster car to get to work :) )

So far, i've purchased exedy clutch/light weight flywheel, walbro fuel pump, innovative engine mounts/axles, Ksport coilover, Skunk2 pro camberkits/LCA, NGK plugs/wires.

If possible, please include the parts and the $$ it will cost me.

Thank you very much :bow:
 
i refuse to give you advice until you through those coilovers in the trash. They only thing i will say is if its your daily leave it alone, running 12's and keeping it NA and emissions equipment just dont all go in the same sentence....
 
You'll need atleast 2.0L...and if your thinking to use a B-series engine then throw the daily driver idea out the window! Too much work and money and wont be smooth to drive. Theres way to many mods to do like gears, cams, stroking, etc etc.

Go for a JDM K20A with original tranny, this will be cheaper and less engine work. No need to upgrade gears or stroke etc. Much more reliable + less to think and worry about.

K-series have VTC so its much much more torquey down low so you don't need to drive in Vtec to feel torque. This will be much more user friendly for a daily driver. Theres only 1 flaw and that is the K-series sit quite low, so lowering your car will be limited. But basic bolt ons, stock gears and Hondata tune will see you in the 12's easy. :) Oh Providing you don't have 20 subs and amps in your car. :D
 
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My friend has a EK4 Jdm K20A and it pulls like a B-series in Vtec from 1000rpm. Even some dude sold his EG6+jdmB18C after sitting in his car. And considering he only experienced the power below VTEC, you can imagine how torquey it is. Once you've driven a K-series, you'll never go back to B-series again.

This is my experience and opinion...
 
agree...
way to much money for a N/A with those goals.
You are better off with a K swap.
:angry2:
 
i hate to say it but i agree, by the time you spend all that money you can just have a K which will have a little less power but a lot more reliability and potential!!
 
jime64871 said:
soon enough K's will replace B's... :(
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I would not go that far, I personally hate the K tranny and will never go K, and lets not forget the worlds fastest honda in drag and top speed both use B motors ;)
 
jugbugz said:
You'll need atleast 2.0L...and if your thinking to use a B-series engine then throw the daily driver idea out the window! Too much work and money and wont be smooth to drive. Theres way to many mods to do like gears, cams, stroking, etc etc.
Click to expand...

2.0L B-series are plenty smooth as daily drivers even when they're pushing the envelope towards 250whp builds.

I don't know where you get the idea that 12.5-13.0:1 compression and big cams automagically becomes difficult to drive. A bit more challenging to tune? Yes.

A K20 is 10-12k for a swap. I'm not saying a 2.0L B won't cost the same in the end, but to simply write off a high-po NA Bseries as not streetable is comedy.
 
blinx9900 said:
I would not go that far, I personally hate the K tranny and will never go K, and lets not forget the worlds fastest honda in drag and top speed both use B motors ;)
Click to expand...

ditto.

Many were saying how the Ds were going to get replaced by the Bs.... I like all of Honda's popular offerings from Ds, to Bs to Ks. They have their own "personalities" to fit the budget/power goals of their respective owners.
 
RagingAngel said:
2.0L B-series are plenty smooth as daily drivers even when they're pushing the envelope towards 250whp builds.

I don't know where you get the idea that 12.5-13.0:1 compression and big cams automagically becomes difficult to drive. A bit more challenging to tune? Yes.

A K20 is 10-12k for a swap. I'm not saying a 2.0L B won't cost the same in the end, but to simply write off a high-po NA Bseries as not streetable is comedy.
Click to expand...

Well that was my opinion. Technically, K-series eats B-series for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Correct me if im wrong on that.

My opinions were plainly based on his goals, ofcourse lots of potential everywhere, funds is your limit. By the time you stroke the b16b to a B20B and then raise CR, pistons, port polish, cams, VS, retainers, gears, ECU + good tuning etc etc Lots of money, stress and time already there. My opinion is that, B-series will never be as drivable or smoother or efficient nor have the powerband over a K-series. For what he wants, he is better off with a jdm k20a. less stress. But yeh, if I had all the money, best tuner and parts, I'm sure theres lots of options

If I had the choice... K-series for me, why live in the past? The Next CTR in 2010 will still be using K20A. i wonder why... :)
 
No where did I say you were wrong regarding the aspect in which Kseries has better potential.

What I did state is that just because a B20 is fully built to make 250 or more WHP, it does not make it all of a sudden unlivable with on a daily basis - which is what you stated when you mentioned that it won't be smooth to drive.

It is plenty smooth....how smooth? As smooth as a stock 18C. Would that be as smooth as a K? No. But I don't see anybody throwing their arms up except for being happy they did a B18C vs. their B16B.

We all want our cake and to be able to eat it too.... in this case, it would be far easier to just slap on a 50-state legal Performer-X Edelbrock turbo setup.

Honda Carb Legal Turbo Kits - Turbo Magazine
 
blinx9900 said:
I would not go that far, I personally hate the K tranny and will never go K, and lets not forget the worlds fastest honda in drag and top speed both use B motors ;)
Click to expand...

Well said! :nice:

RagingAngel said:
2.0L B-series are plenty smooth as daily drivers even when they're pushing the envelope towards 250whp builds.

I don't know where you get the idea that 12.5-13.0:1 compression and big cams automagically becomes difficult to drive. A bit more challenging to tune? Yes.

A K20 is 10-12k for a swap. I'm not saying a 2.0L B won't cost the same in the end, but to simply write off a high-po NA Bseries as not streetable is comedy.
Click to expand...

:clap: Nice to see some good fact into the thread... I agrees B-series are very good when tuned properly, super smoothe.

Jugbugz said:
Well that was my opinion. Technically, K-series eats B-series for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Correct me if im wrong on that.

My opinions were plainly based on his goals, ofcourse lots of potential everywhere, funds is your limit. By the time you stroke the b16b to a B20B and then raise CR, pistons, port polish, cams, VS, retainers, gears, ECU + good tuning etc etc Lots of money, stress and time already there. My opinion is that, B-series will never be as drivable or smoother or efficient nor have the powerband over a K-series. For what he wants, he is better off with a jdm k20a. less stress. But yeh, if I had all the money, best tuner and parts, I'm sure theres lots of options

If I had the choice... K-series for me, why live in the past? The Next CTR in 2010 will still be using K20A. i wonder why...
Click to expand...

For not too much more cost than a full K swap you can have a built B-series that will outperform that K-series. :secret:

I guess its all about what you want out of the machine in the end. Both the B series and the K-series have massive design advantages over other manufacturers similar offers.. theyre both in their raw form superb engines... its just how much better people want to make them.
 
iv drove a stroked b16b to a b18. this engine has got everything possible done to it n/a it cost about £14,000 to build and drives as smooth as a std b18 was shocked but more than capible of a everyday car as thats what he uses it as. but emissions i think will be out the window i dont think its posible. so like said k20 would be the better option for you. and as far as torque goes a strocked b16 has plenty with his set up it will pin your head to the back of the seat at any rev. it pulls that good all the way through the revs that u dont even have a v-tec cross over. feels like your in it all the time.
 
I would not go as fasr as to say that an upgraded B-series with 12's in mind, is not daily drivable. I drive my car to and from work everyday and it uses 75a solid mounts :shocked:. I love how torquey my car is now and how easily the revs fly. If I had the funds and knowledge I have now when I first began modding my car, I would have gone K-series in a heartbeat.
They are so much more responsive to simply bolt-ons than the b-series motors, and their intake cam adjusts itself to various conditions automatically. When you use nitro in a K-series, there is no need to retard timing, as the engine senses it and retards automatically.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys..good info
But I'm an old school and really like to work with B16B instead of K-swap. If building 12's NA with emmision control intact will be a problem, what would be my reasonable goal without having any emmision problems?. I'm not planning on running this car at the track and it will be used ONLY for daily ride (thats why i bought that suspension). I just want to build a nice car that I can have some fun with.

Oh yeah,

I did search !! But all other NA setups i found were mostly for race tracks ( not for daily )

Thanks
 
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