b16b bored and sleeved or b20 block


b18c_JORDAN said:
ive never heard of that problem. Ive only ever heard of one case of skunk2 camshafts snapping. Ive heard of alot more makes of camshafts snapping but never wear on the lobes.

Maybe he ran the engine VERY low on oil as once the engine is running it creates a film around all the metal components so they never really touch each other!
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if the cam fall during delivery it may crack or it can crack from the factory when they made them.
you are right about oil also bad quality oil or hight oil temp can provide friction on lobes/moving parts.

Championship White said:
I'll second what abunai888 said, there are also a few other members who have had similar experiences with the b-series cams they make. Skunk2 has had many, many problems with extremely worn lobes on their new K-series camshafts too from what I've read and seen on K20a.org.
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both cars using skunk2 cams was ep3's and had k20 engine they made good power but not for a long time :(
i also know kent cams also uk made afaik their prise was good and gains.
 
Oh fair enough I dont know alot about K series. Im a B series man. Never heard of these problems with B series.

Ive personally never had any problems with skunk2 and have only ever heard of the camshafts snapping on the intake side once.
 
not thinking of aftermarket cams yet lads:) its costin and arm and a leg so far:)
 
I've seen 3 different cases of skunk2 cams failing in B series engines! Serious Lobe wear and 1 where the cams snapped. All were fitted professionally! I wouldnt touch Skunk2 cams but I have also heard of buddyclub and crower cams snapping twice! :( OEM honda is best for durability and realiability! :)
 
The Skunk2 cam-gears on the rally car have just decided to fracture. Another example of crap quality.
 
yea be defo stayin oem for now anyway........skunk 2 seem to be pretty crap..always seein them as good quality
 
IMO the Skunk2 products are good quality. Proper installation is vital with any cam. With any headwork you should be using a calibrated torque wrench.
 
If your going through the hassle of sleeving I'd go go low comp and go for a turbo setup. More bang for buck as the saying goes. I'd hold off a while if you don't have the money to do it and save up till you do.

As for the problem with skunk2. Out the entire world I think they've sold a lot more that have made good power and only a hand full have had problem. They need to be installed properly and if not you'll have problems. Skunk2 even say that themselves so it would be the tuners or installers fault if problems occour. And you won't be able to blame either as they'll blame the other person
 
was kinda going stayin away from turboin it lad:)

hi-powered n/a is my goal at the min:)........how too go about it i cant decide:)
 
turbo is the way mate. No disrespect but N/A road car is never going to be that fast IMO. You could spend £2-3000 on a decent turbo kit and be make 300-350bhp. Dont believe what top gear says when they say 250bhp in a front wheel driver car is too much because that is PURE BULLSHIT!!!!
 
obrienej6 said:
was kinda going stayin away from turboin it lad:)

hi-powered n/a is my goal at the min:)........how too go about it i cant decide:)
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everyone will give opinions but everyone has own wants and expectations

just do what you want deep down but which ever route you take will cost a small fortune to do correctly (there is absolute no way round this apart from cutting corners and leaving little bits hear and there)
 
yea iceman...i have used all oem parts so farfor rebuild, i aint going cuttin corners.

i'm going sit down and see wat i can realisticaly afford to spend and go from there..

the engine deffiantly wont be left standard thou:)
 
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