Advice needed low power ek9


shooter mcgavan

shooter mcgavan

98 ek9
Joined
Sep 12, 2008
Messages
1,150
well,the story is my girlfriends brother had his ek9 dynod the other day and it made 148.1bhp...at the FLYWHEEL!!and 105.6 lbft of torque.the car is standard other than dc2 airbox,js racing manifold (2.5inch collector)js decat .he says they told him the airbox was causing the problem as it is mounted arseways and is lying down close to the radiator and suffering from heatsoak.does thius seem plausible?im looking at the afr chart and it just gets richer and richer throughout rev range,the tuner saying this is because it not getting air.this seems like a huge amount to lose due to this?any ideas?the poor sod is heart broken!
 
I think u should check the basics to see their is any response to the problem (my way is to start checkin the components that are the easiest or cheapest to check):

1. Intake (the tuner could be onto something, just reconfigure it to see what happens)
2. Check ur plugs and plug wires.
3. Check ur injectors (they could be bad or the fuel filter could be wasted)
4. Then........maybe you'd want to check ur sensors to see if they're all workin as they should!

That's what I would do.....

hope things work out dude! Peace!
 
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yeah thats true think he getting a loan of a mugen airbox and running it again.if fuel filter was wasted would it not be lean?plugs are fresh,maybe leads as when the car is warm he says it hiccuops at 2.5k rpm?and that its quite dead before vtec...
 
I'd open up the airbox - maybe something is blocking the air intake.
 
I'm more inclined to think that the horsepower figure is at the wheels, not at the flywheel.

That figure is almost the same as most of the EK9s I have seen with similar mods on our dyno, save the very rare exceptions with high km motors (200,000+).

If that figure is at the wheels he should be happy - his engine is nice and healthy. If it is running rich (like all EK9s do when you mod them), then he could use VAFC of similar to tidy the ratios up a bit for more power.

Get him to duct air to the airbox from the front bumper somehow and see if it makes any difference. But even allowing for drive train loss etc his motor should be making lots more than that if that's a figure taken at the flywheel.

Also remember though, dyno figures really don't mean all that much unless you have done serious engine work, and even then you should only compare the car with itself in an earlier state of tune.

Good luck!
 
131.8 at the wheels!!unlessthe dyno is out...although integra went same day and made 175 at the fly which he said was the norm,he said civic r makes 175ish normally.is it possible to lose that mush through air intake!!
 
dere may b a simple solution
sumtimes dynos can b way off !!!!
dose dynos have 2 b callabrated after a certain amount of use or else dey dnt measure correctly - it happens quite a lot
 
what's the compression of the motor?

has the timing been set properly?

have the cams been swapped out?
 
compression test not been done nor has the valve clearances,or ignition timing checked.tuner said its not pinking so it seems ok but a few degres out still gonna ruin it wouldnt it?cams have not been touched.could it just be a multiyude of allthese things and the car just needs all these things set up?
 
Do a compression check, that will answer alot of questions. He didnt put diesel in the tank by any chance? seen this before with a guy who put some diesel in his tank by a mistake and even after draining and flushing as much as could be done the car didnt come back to full power for over a month of driving with using fuel additives every full tank to try clear the fuel system completely.
 
hes hadit 8 months i think and hes never put diesel in it thank god!!yeah i must test it for him,whats the figure 230psi across all 4?it only uses about half a litre of oil every 3months he say so it should be ok?if the fuel filter blocks up is there a relief valve inside,say like a clear path without filtration that would allow too much fuel through?
 
the number itself doesn't really matter unless it is very low.

What you are looking for in terms of compression numbers is an even number across. I did a compression test with a very old Snap on gauge and my numbers were pretty much 180psi across varying no more than 2psi with the lowest number being 180.

The car also happened to make 177whp with nothing more than an AEM intake and a decat. It trapped 99mph full interior.

What's the condition of wheel bearings? What was the tire pressure and alignment settings? All this stuff wouldn't matter if it was being run on a dynapack, but I suspect that is not the case here.

Since you also state it is getting richer and richer, scan the chart and show us exactly what is going on here. No scanner? Take a picture of it with your digicam and post it up.
 
me being tremendously useless with computers raging angel,i cant but ill see if my mate can hes handy wit em.it was a dynapack which eliminates the rolling resistance end of ot.ill try get afr graph up soon as thanks for responeses lads keep em coming!!
 
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