Damaged the tein rear strut bar i believe the design and the material of the brackets is prone to damage
anyway i had to fix it...
Drill and tap m5 bolts through the aluminum base to the new metal mounts
used some epoxy to cover up edges and
painted with VHT wrinkle black spray,then refitted.
Works fine
Good job , I never knew that you could buy just the boot cover for ball joints,
As I done the same on ns when changing inner drive shaft boots,
So good post mate .
Then did some touch up with paint every scratch mainly on the front lip and arches...
and a good polish and waxing used Meguiars GoldClass carnauba plus paste wax & AutoGlym Super Resin polish !
as you can see both products did a really good job !
lol
Made a new catch can for the crankcase ventilation side
again old good zipties & JB weld worked well among with VHT black spray can !
Then removed the valve cover catch can and it's hoses.
That way i can make a custom catch can my self !
Used some AN caps so i can keep driving the car daily !
Had to make more space for the new catch can so i removed the torque mount brace from the transmission side.
i like to keep all engine mounts in place so i custom made a new brace simmilar to the AEM cold air intake kit has.
minimal weight savings but more room to play in the engine bay!
Amazing work once again !
What way did you route your pipes for crank case vent ?
Did you do away with the pcv valve ?
Or just run from pcv pipe to catch can ,back to inlet ?
Valve cover pipe to catch can
Amazing work once again !
What way did you route your pipes for crank case vent ?
Did you do away with the pcv valve ?
Or just run from pcv pipe to catch can ,back to inlet ?
Valve cover pipe to catch can
Used to have an open breather set up but wanted to test this catch tank between crankcase and pcv.
The valve cover vents satyed to a open breather tank all that time.
Keep it for a year or so done it's work collecting humid vapors but i think is better an open breather set up for an engine that revs
almost 9.000rpm.
removed completely the pcv
drill and tap the intake manifold like this :
Removed and thown to the trash bin the last prosports gauges i had (oil pressure and oil themp).
Prosport oil pressure was giving me strange readings and oil temp wasn't working...
Replaced them with AEM oil pressure unit in BAR instead of psi i used to have.
Much better product easy to install with cool features(datalog,optional bezel and faceplate color, different backlight colors.)
Oil temp replaced by a cheap but proven stack electrical gauge same as the water temp i used the last couple of years with no issues.
Unfortunatelly the Buddy club rear LCA's bushings started getting some play and buddy club uk could not answer my emails :-(
so with no replacement bushings available had to found a replacement ...
Bought a brand new oem lca set from local honda dealer with 3 last oem lca bolts he had !
Last summer in Greece was really hot reaching 40+C on July & August !
So to keep things cool for the next season i bought a Skunk2 1/2 alpha radiator.
My plan was to fit it right from the box but job routine kept me so time passed and winter came up and it's -3 outside right now pfff...
Some pics and my thoughts on the video below (turn on subtitles/captions):