Final plans to finish my motor


haitch said:
I had not read your spec properly Ian, thought you just had a Spoon N1. I would take it to SRR or Eurospec and get a readout, it may give you some pointers. With that spec a 3" system may be good but probably not worth it for the gain, but it is worth getting a larger silencer installed as this would get you track friendly?
If you have the internals you have stated, you could try a remap to start? I believe Romain mapped the TGM FD2 - just completed the 24hr race in Barcelona, I know he does the race cars usually, never any issues. Tom is worth a call also if you had not already, he built Hanfords Bseries among others, that thing is a rocket.
Or maybe you fancy a Kswap? :naughty:
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I was advised when the exhaust was made that 3" was not required and would just make the thing louder.

Avetec said:
intresting choice of parts are you getting it retuned?
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Yes that is a must.

urban boy said:
RDNA-Race DNA, Perrymoo if he is still on here, he'll sort it. Most honest guy in Tunning i know. Along with his colleauge Paul it's insane what they can do.
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I spoke to him a long time ago but didn't get much from him.

Kozy said:
This.

Throwing a load of money at it in the form of a load of mismatched parts isn't going to work. Get someone who know's what they are doing on the case.
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Thats was the point of paying someone to do it and look where that landed me. I was told to purchase the AEM V2 :angry:

TheBooosh...! said:
Rmf manifold is really good!
Custom intake would be much better to suit your TB as you can also choose length so will decide on low,mid, or high end power
and as for the exhaust just swap the box out for a bigger one or add a little one?
What about a diff and some gears?
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I already have a diff and final drive. I am restricted on header i must have ground clearance and my full width rad. I know the Alpha fits these requirements. I'm not convinced the manifold it holding it back since the toda design is very similar. My power band hits a brick wall at 8k

scott said:
Have you thought about ITB surly that would make some that high rev power
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Really not keen on these, money and reliability.

Vtec6000 said:
A 68mm throttle body would be more suited to your engine spec, 72mm is too big. You would benefit from going with a 3" catback or at least 2.75". As for exhaust manifold, big tube hytech if your looking to extend your power band(gain more top end power) or Toda/Toda rep for best over all power band. For intake I would recommend 3" arm with a velocity stack filter, you will have to play around with different length piping to find what works best.
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What change would it make going from 72 to 68?

urban boy said:
Waste of time just trying parts, get the job done right, once.
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Again, i tried this and look where that landed me. This Engine has been the bain of my life and i wish i just stuck with my B16B.
 
ijwhiteman said:
Again, i tried this and look where that landed me. This Engine has been the bain of my life and i wish i just stuck with my B16B.
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Flog it and fit a low mileage B16B. :naughty:

On a serious note, I have to say this does seem to be a recurring theme with 'built' Honda engines though.

The power gain rarely seems to be worth the total PITA it becomes! :(
 
I just don't think a peak power of below 8 is right for the set up...

I don't know what to do many options floating round my mind.
 
I would be checking things like weather or not your cams are dialed in correctly to toda's spec before buying more random stuff
 
ijwhiteman said:
I just don't think a peak power of below 8 is right for the set up...

I don't know what to do many options floating round my mind.
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I'd still be interested in seeing the ignition map... or at least knowing what sort of timing it was needing at >8k as opposed to <7k.
 
Kozy said:
I'd still be interested in seeing the ignition map... or at least knowing what sort of timing it was needing at >8k as opposed to <7k.
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ignition I'm sure is retarded, compression of that engine is too high for pump fuel :(
 
pedro_rallye said:
ignition I'm sure is retarded, compression of that engine is too high for pump fuel :(
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That was might thought too. Too much compression, too little cam, too low octane.

Ian, have you tried retarding the intake cam a bit?
 
The best money you could spend right now is to stick the car on the dyno and get a current chart with power, torque and importantly AFR. Then take it from there, in conjunction with input from your mapper.

Moray
 
My old B18 made 243bhp with the most linear power band ever with a 2.5" ID exhaust, 68mm TB and a mugen intake

4aad0440.jpg


When i was collecting parts for the build i spoke alot with Larry at Endyn who advised that 68mm is the biggest TB they would fit on a high comp B18 - they custom ported me a cut/port/weld intake manifold port matched to 68mm for the edelbrock TB

exhaust wise SSR custom made a street sweeper for the build, i even fitted a tegiwa sports cat too

the cylinder head i used had been fettled too - it is all the intake / head / exhaust manifold that helps a B make power, take Urban Boy's build, it makes 230bhp and a stack of torque on a stock B18 block....... Endyn's site shows just what is possible with a B16 head


if you want more power - speak to race DNA, take the car to them and let Perrymoo decide what mods are best suited to release any hidden power

IMO you would be better off working on the chassis to improve how the car can corner as well as fitting proper brake pads (check out the pagid RS range). this is what i have focussed on with the M3 and it is phenominal to drive

just my opinion of course! you have the gearbox, you (almost) have the engine you want, some careful attention to the chassis (add helper springs / wider tyres / tweak the alignment and corner weights) and you will have a belter of a car - then with more track time you will be able to get the most out of it
 
Proper brake pads are so good I can notice when racing and they last longer as well. Endyn breather is good, car does not use much oil any more at the end of each race it was on min now still full .
 
Must be frustrating after spending hard earned money, but there are people that can help, but i don't think they will just be willing to give free advice. Who built your engine? PM if you like.

Sounds bad, i'm banging on about how good Pez engine build is, and trying to sell it at same time. Maybe you should buy it.
 
He also built mine (for J700OCK originally) and it was smoking heavily within 3 months of fitting it and shat itself about 2 months later. No wonder he sold it cheap, it was a lemon.

Just sayin'.
 
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No idea what to do with it.

So tempted to strip it and start a new project. Just about had enough of it.
 
A lot of time & hard earned spent Ian, I'm in the same place, the Kswap although running perfectly, looks like it will be going for different reasons, very frustrating.
 
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