where to get spoon calipers?


bobbarron

bobbarron

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Joined
Feb 21, 2012
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Been seaching for a while for spoon calipers for my 9! Used ones are near impossible to find. Wheres the best place to get them from? About £1250 for the kit is the best ive seen in the uk. Any ideas??
 
I bought mine new from Spoon, I paid around £1350, Would say Spoon direct is best,

It will all linger around that price tbh, u will struggle to find cheaper.
 
i know someone who has a pair.

i'll ask him to see if he wants to sell and i'll get him to pm you, hes on here i think if not i'll get him to join.
 
I happen to have a contact that is currently busy developing a caliper like the Spoon Twinblocks, also with staggered 4-pot setup and p&p over the 282mm discs without the need of a bracket and with the great benefit over Spoon that they are fully sealed (spoon has no seals) and a lot cheaper. I can't give all the details yet but I can tell you it's serious as I am also helping developing / giving specs for it.
As soon as I know more I can post updates if there is interest for them.
 
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Mine are up for sale, but I am in the USA.

Spoon 4 pot monoblock Civic versions, from ICB.
Carbotech pads street/track, hats and DBA disks.

Whole kit 1,600USD, plus shipping.
 
Bigskank said:
Why do people buy these .££££
Click to expand...


Properly selected brake calipers/disks/pads will dramatically reduce lap times, reduce stopping distances [taking speed deeper into a turn prior to braking], helps prevent brake fade/heat issues.

...if properly setup.

Its just as important to improve brakes along side power increases to the engine. Think of big brakes as horse power for stopping.
 
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Can use OEM brake pads and lines, lighter and takes weight off by a fair bit, its better braking in every way than OEM brake calipers such as fade and stopping distances, gives u better braking confidence from some speed, and looks damn baller.
 
Thanks for the input guys! ive tried a few different discs n pad variations but they do not seem up to the job! My car is boosted and local track is hard on the brakes! Can get a spoon kit for £1050 though a local company & have them in weeks!Also want to keep 15" wheels so white limited on choice of calipers. Let me know if anything decent comes up! Cheers
 
Try RHDJapan mate, sure they are around £620 on their site. Prob talking around £900 shipped with charges to UK
 
Today a friend of mine stopped by to pick up a very light bigbrake that I specially put together for his (Ferrari Abu Dhabi Blue) K20 Del Sol build:

We took very light 305mm discs + very light HiSpec calipers and had a bracket specially machined for it. Combination just 7kg's (the solid ones on the right (282's) go on the rear):

Foto550-FKAYFORM.jpg


Fitted on a 5th gen spindle, inside is Mintex Racing pads:

Foto550-MEFVVNOT.jpg

Foto550-BMRPNURL.jpg


Fitted in 15" Pro Race 1, still plenty room left:
Foto550-URHNKLAX.jpg


It's not a hardcore racekit, the car will only see track occasionaly.
 
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We can do a Wilwood 4 pot kit which bolts straight onto the 282mm discs, and also fits behind 15" wheels for £579.00 plus delivery. You can then sell your current calipers/pads for around £100 which brings the price down to below £500 for a 4 pot setup.
Much nicer than spending close to twice that for the blue ones.
 
@Freaky: no offence, that would be nice if you come from a 262mm on a normal civic, but switching from OEM EK9 calipers to WW Midilite's (I assume?) you end up loosing more then 1/3 of pad surface area, this means certainly no gain in brakepower and most likely loss of brakepower despite the caliper being fourpot, since brakepower is determined by 3 things:

Diameter of the disc (stays the same)
Piston area (same if you take matching pistons for master cilinder)
Pad surface (big loss with the small wilwood pad!)

While the expensive blue ones keep using the the large OEM pads. ;-)
If you want to use the light and small wilwood calipers/pads you need to compensate by using a larger disc.
 
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tama666 said:
Mine are up for sale, but I am in the USA.

Spoon 4 pot monoblock Civic versions, from ICB.
Carbotech pads street/track, hats and DBA disks.

Whole kit 1,600USD, plus shipping.
Click to expand...

This is superb kit, much better then twinclock as it can use larger and bigger discs (more brake power and cooler), better foot feeling on braking and two piece rotor.

If i have track car this is the kit!!!
 
NLek said:
@Freaky: no offence, that would be nice if you come from a 262mm on a normal civic, but switching from OEM EK9 calipers to WW Midilite's (I assume?) you end up loosing more then 1/3 of pad surface area, this means certainly no gain in brakepower and most likely loss of brakepower despite the caliper being fourpot, since brakepower is determined by 3 things:

Diameter of the disc (stays the same)
Piston area (same if you take matching pistons for master cilinder)
Pad surface (big loss with the small wilwood pad!)

While the expensive blue ones keep using the the large OEM pads. ;-)
If you want to use the light and small wilwood calipers/pads you need to compensate by using a larger disc.
Click to expand...

You are wrong. Pad area is (almost) totally irrelevant to braking effort. If you don't know simple GCSE physics its not ideal to criticise someone's product.
Don't try and interpolate friction effects from tyres, as that is not a simple surface interaction like is the case with brake components.

The main consideration with pad area is that some pad compouds don't respond well to certain pressure profiles (such as EBC compounds don't work well in small pad area applications), and wear life!
 
I would also say of the HiSpecs - (They look like Billet 4s?)
I had a set and they were very flexible and after 4 years the pistons locked in the bores and I sold them for £75 for 'spares/repair' as basically they were not far of being fit for the bin.

Hi-Spec 4 Pots (Calipers+Brackets) - Car Parts For Sale - VX220 Owners Club

That said they are very light and very cheap. They'll do fine for a few years but i'd suggest using braided hoses to try and counter the crap pedal feel.

I modified the AP 4 pots to fit off an MGTF and these were in great working condition despite 10 year's use.
 
JohnTurbo said:
You are wrong. Pad area is (almost) totally irrelevant to braking effort. If you don't know simple GCSE physics its not ideal to criticise someone's product.
Don't try and interpolate friction effects from tyres, as that is not a simple surface interaction like is the case with brake components.

The main consideration with pad area is that some pad compouds don't respond well to certain pressure profiles (such as EBC compounds don't work well in small pad area applications), and wear life!
Click to expand...

I appreciate your input but if the clamp force stays the same (which you can calculated by the pistons and master cilinder) and the diameter of the disc stays the same too then the only variable you have left is friction force of the pad which is determined by 2 factors: the cooefficent of friction and it's surface area.....so taken the Cof stays the same you will definitly loose friction force on or smaller pad. Sure you can also compensate this by use higher Cof pads which is done in racing but these will generate more heat too and put more stress on the brakesystem then you need better discs and brake duct cooling. So point is if you take an EK9 and you don't change anything but the calipers and you change them for smaller calipers/with smaller pads like the midilites it's a step back.
 
JohnTurbo said:
I would also say of the HiSpecs - (They look like Billet 4s?)
I had a set and they were very flexible and after 4 years the pistons locked in the bores....

They'll do fine for a few years but i'd suggest using braided hoses to try and counter the crap pedal feel.
Click to expand...

Yes Billet 4's....we also experienced this crappy pedal feel once, found out it was because of the oil ways getting blocked by thread of the banjobolt:

Foto-AVNHPZM4.jpg


Foto-TYC7YWEO.jpg


Foto-APNJ6EAQ.jpg


So you need to be carefull which brakelinefitting. Also if the oil ways get's blocked by the bolt this causes too much heat on the pistons as the heated oil cannot free flow, so maybe your problem with them was related to the above?
 
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