Wanting to go k20 in my integra dc2.


StevieG

StevieG

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Mar 7, 2011
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Okay, so a mate of mine is selling his ep3 cheap and I have been wanting to go k20 for a while, just been waiting for an opportunity like this to come up.
I have been doing my research into and just wanted abit of help from
People who have done the swap so I know everything right.

From the ep3 I would take the:
Engine, gearbox, driveshafts, loom, fusebox and ecu.

From what I can gather, to get it all working I will need:
Engine mounts - Hybrid Racing?
Get a dc5 shifter box and cables (dose this bolt straight in?)
Hybrid racing fuel set up?
Use the standard ep3 driveshafts
Can i use the standard ep3 loom but need a conversion harness for it too work with my dc2 interior loom and Imobillizer from hybrid racing to use the stock ecu.
Kswap header - Hybrid Racing?
Move radiator to A/C side and get conversion hoses. Could I use the standard ep3 rad hoses? (since it's a dc2 already has the mounting points)

What throttle cable and clutch line would I need?

Have I missed anything out?
Any help would much appriciated!
:nice:
 
StevieG said:
Okay, so a mate of mine is selling his ep3 cheap and I have been wanting to go k20 for a while, just been waiting for an opportunity like this to come up.
I have been doing my research into and just wanted abit of help from
People who have done the swap so I know everything right.

From the ep3 I would take the:
Engine, gearbox, driveshafts, loom, fusebox and ecu.

From what I can gather, to get it all working I will need:
Engine mounts - Hybrid Racing?
Correct, Hasport do an alternative kit too

Get a dc5 shifter box and cables (dose this bolt straight in?)
Not a straight bolt in job. you need to cut the tunnel and offer up the shifter box in the new gap then using the karcepts shifter plate it will bolt in.

Hybrid racing fuel set up?
Correct, fuel rail, FPR, fuel lines

Use the standard ep3 driveshafts
you can use the EP3 driveshafts along with the outer CV joints from your Bseries driveshafts. Otherwise there are alternative full kswap driveshafts available from Hybrid, DriveShaftShop, Ktuned, Tegiwa

Can i use the standard ep3 loom but need a conversion harness for it too work with my dc2 interior loom and Imobillizer from hybrid racing to use the stock ecu.
Standard EP3 engine loom is ok along with the conversion harness from Hybrid, Ktuned or tegiwa, take your pick. If you want to run the standard ECU then an immobiliser delete is what you want. If not you can run the Hondata Kpro

Kswap header - Hybrid Racing?
There are many brands available

Move radiator to A/C side and get conversion hoses. Could I use the standard ep3 rad hoses? (since it's a dc2 already has the mounting points)
Some people do use standard hoses. Would really depend if your induction kit fouled on the top hose. If the radiator doesn't come with a temp sensor or fan switch these will need to be bought along with an adapter that will fit in your bottom radiator hose.

What throttle cable and clutch line would I need?
Standard throttle cable. Clutch line can be a custom jobby, or else hybrid do a braided line.

Have I missed anything out?
There are a few options when it comes to power steering. So people wire in an electric PS pump from either the civic or an MR2 (I think). Others retain the use of the hydraulic pump and use a DC5 pump and lines, except the bonnet needs the skeleton modified to allow this to fit. Others just loop the rack and run without PS.

Any help would much appriciated!
:nice:
Click to expand...

Hope this helps
 
That's great help, thanks for doing that mate.
With the p/s and a/c I won't be running either, I rather the car with out so won't need any of them parts. Do I need to buy the auto tensioner that hybrid racing do to remove these?
 
Just get a Aux belt from a non PS and aircon EP3.. I done that recently, and loop the PS hose on the rack.
 
Okay that's not too bad then thanks for that.
Is there any better options for the shifter, or is cutting the tranny tunnel and using a adaptor plate and dc5 shifter the best option about?

And I read somewhere about exhausts. I have a mugen twinloop now I would probably try and keep. Do you just shorten the B-pipe so it mates with the exhaust mani? Or is there still room for a de-cat and ill just shorten the de-cat I have now.

Thanks for all the info, trying to take in so much is confusing! want to get it right the first time!
 
StevieG said:
Okay that's not too bad then thanks for that.
Is there any better options for the shifter, or is cutting the tranny tunnel and using a adaptor plate and dc5 shifter the best option about?

And I read somewhere about exhausts. I have a mugen twinloop now I would probably try and keep. Do you just shorten the B-pipe so it mates with the exhaust mani? Or is there still room for a de-cat and ill just shorten the de-cat I have now.

Thanks for all the info, trying to take in so much is confusing! want to get it right the first time!
Click to expand...

Hybrid Racing do a complete bolt in shifter setup. probablly is the daddy of all shifters. Check it out on their website. No cutting required.

Chances are your b-pipe will need to be shortened. but the Twinloop tends to be quite restrictive on the b18c's let alone the k20. Your best idea is to sell it and get a custom 2.5" - 3" exhaust made with silencers and to the spec you want it.
 
You do not need a fancy shifter mounting kit, any old plate will do, 10mm aluminium for example..


For a road going Kswap the EP3 shafts will be ok, for track you will probably want to upgrade. The Twinloop is not a good system for the K20, as above a custom would be £450-550.
 
It will be a road car but do go on track often so maybe worth getting tidy shafts then?

Did you make your own shifter mounting plate?
Just make a plate the shape of the shifter but underneath the tranny tunnel?
You have run the cables along the top of the tunnel I see, out the bulk head then?
 
StevieG said:
It will be a road car but do go on track often so maybe worth getting tidy shafts then?

Did you make your own shifter mounting plate?
Just make a plate the shape of the shifter but underneath the tranny tunnel?
You have run the cables along the top of the tunnel I see, out the bulk head then?
Click to expand...

Because his isn't a road car with full interior he can do it that way. Once the tunnel is cut the shifter can be offered up to sit at an OEM height allowing centre console and gear gaitor etc to be put in place. he shifter is bolted to the plate and the plate goes under the shifter and comes up at the front and the back and bolts to the chassis.
 
Anybody have experience with the hybrid racing stuff, seems to be quite well priced.
How are there mounts and exhaust manifold for fittment?
And what's the sump clearance like on the swap?
Anyone recommend baffled sumps of using them on track? Have seen Tegiwa do a baffle plate like the b series one
 
It was a road car when the swap was done, didnt care for looks. Knocked it up myself, one piece of aluminium plate, drill holes, round off edges, job done. Baffled sump a must, just welded extra plates in mine, not a fan of anything from Tegiwa, the CWM drop in is a good bit of kit but they all do the same job. EP3 shafts might be okay depending on your setup & experience but I would splash out for piece of mind, it soon adds up as you will find for yourself.
 
thuongk20 said:
Just get a Aux belt from a non PS and aircon EP3.. I done that recently, and loop the PS hose on the rack.
Click to expand...

Do you by any chance have part number for the belt? Didnt know you could get ep3's without a/c or p/s, is this like an n1 model or something?
 
lloyd said:
Do you by any chance have part number for the belt? Didnt know you could get ep3's without a/c or p/s, is this like an n1 model or something?
Click to expand...

My uk ep3 engine came with what you are looking lad. I have the belt you need. You'll need an idler pulley as well. GHB
 
Anybody got the ep3 gearbox and put an aftermarket LSD into it?
I don't fancy the non-LSD box from the ep3 so going to go for an aftermarket one.
Any reviews on any of them on here?
 
Depends on your requirements, the usual suspects are Quaife, Wavetrack, MFactory, OBX, none of them are much different to the oem DC5 unit for grip, the OBX is one to avoid, The MFactory unit is probably favourable as it can handle more power, and should be slightly more aggressive due to the design, but I know of a couple of folk running an oem (DC5) with forced induction & no issues. For a road car seeing a few trackdays a year pick one of the above, easy to live with, used oem is cheapest.

If you plan on lots of track work, it has to be a plate diff, Kaaz is best value for money, on the road with no power steering though its a real handful, even on track you can struggle on the tight chicanes - assist is needed.
 
So the Oem dc5 diff fits straight into an ep3 gearbox?

What's the sump clearance like on the k20 swap?
 
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Straight fit yes, takes about an hour. Sump sits low, if you like your suspension slammed you might get issues.
 
Is there any views on Mfactory helical LSD?

If I get a wiring harness from say hybrid racing, is there any other wiring to be done or dose that harness connect the ep3 engine loom to the dc2 interior loom straight and let me run the ep3 ecu?
 
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