Thoughts On This Problem


type-r-dunk said:
When i had a full S2 stage 2 setup in my dc2 the optimum cam timing was exactly 0 deg. So oem pulleys would have worked fine.
Your ITB's aren't too small or big are they.
Dunx
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Since it worked previously and the same set-up is used on loads of Irish rally-cars I think the ITB's should be fine. Since the cam gears helped the problem, I've got a new cambelt ordered and will investigate the pulley.

stevenEK9 said:
I've seen Jenveys which he's "tuned" :angry:
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:wow:
 
Horrible

However i've seen OBX bodies he's tuned and performed fantastic.....

Worth firing him a PM or give him a call :)
 
Have you considered attaching an OEM intake manifold to see if this solves your problem?!
 
I don't think it's the ITB's since it all worked previously and it's a tried and tested set-up from other cars. Just waiting for the replacement parts to arrive on Monday to tick a few more boxes with what it isn't.
 
Not even gonna pretend i know what the problem is but its sounds nasty having to do all this check check and double check work....
good luck with finding the lil bastard thats causing this...
 
...any update?
I am so interested in this one...really has me thinking.

All I can come up with which has not really been talked about is the ITB's. [You lucky bastard]

Could one, a few, or all of the butterflies be oscillating in a weird way? Is there any way to check for play while WOT or in the area that the issue happens? Worth looking into...they are nice ITB's but still worth looking very closely at them.

...again, just thought(s) to try and help.

Updates please! l8r
 
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Since the change of cam gears helped to make the problem less noticeable we're changing the cambelt to a new OEM one and checking the crank pulley out too. I have the graph, I'll scan it in this morning. The ITB's have been checked out many times and they seem to be doing what they're meant to, but you can never be certain :angry2:
 
Very odd problem. Can you post dyno sheets so we can see what is happening to the power output when the problem occurs. What valves/valve springs have you got?
 
AGH all this engine talk gives me a sore head! lol. thought you guys all knew that engines work because of dark magic! lol. :lol:
 
where does your vtec point come in?

i had skunk 2 tuner series in my b16a2 jordan, and before they were fitted my vtec engaged at 5k , but when the cams fwere fitted it totally died of power as soon as vtec engaged and this was clearly visible on the graph so it was a case of uping the vtec point to 6k and then it was fine
 
Can you take the inlet stacks off easily?
A shot in the dark here, but you might be getting a strange harmonic in the inlet tract.
Does the Emerald's data logging show injector PW?

If you're running an aftermarket ECU, what are you using as a trigger? I'd assumed that everyone was using Chrome or Hondata.
 
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elchunk said:
AGH all this engine talk gives me a sore head! lol. thought you guys all knew that engines work because of dark magic! lol. :lol:
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no, oil. ;)
...but really all the credit goes to the Moon.
 
PhatBob said:
Can you take the inlet stacks off easily?
A shot in the dark here, but you might be getting a strange harmonic in the inlet tract.
Does the Emerald's data logging show injector PW?

If you're running an aftermarket ECU, what are you using as a trigger? I'd assumed that everyone was using Chrome or Hondata.
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Yeh we thought about that but since it was working previously with the same setup and settings it doesn't make sense how it would just suddenly start. Yep, the pulse width were all well within the acceptable range, even tried a set of brand new 320 CC injectors too.

For some reason its black and white lol. But the problem is obvious.

img00121wj.jpg
 
At Emerald, Dave Walker, on the rolling road fitted a load of gear to the engine that meant the ignition wasn't depending on any of the car wiring he said. Would this mean the spark breaking up isn't the problem?

What would make it work if it was a probelm with the spark breaking up at high RPM?
 
Championship White said:
At Emerald, Dave Walker, on the rolling road fitted a load of gear to the engine that meant the ignition wasn't depending on any of the car wiring he said. Would this mean the spark breaking up isn't the problem?

What would make it work if it was a probelm with the spark breaking up at high RPM?
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Not unless he eliminated the distributor. I assume you are still using stock dizzy? What compression is your engine and what plugs are you using?
 
I think it eliminated the distributor iirc. Stock B16b compression with recommended NGK plugs, we've tried three distributors and still no luck.

This problem is a real pain in the arse, been going on for almost a year now.

I read people with breaking up spark have the same kind of symptoms - bogging down at high RPM, it gets worse as the engine gets hotter, it will pull through the bogging down if you rev it through fast enough. Am I correct in saying these are the symptoms? Is it caused by high compression weakening the spark?
 
Championship White said:
I think it eliminated the distributor iirc. Stock B16b compression with recommended NGK plugs, we've tried three distributors and still no luck.

This problem is a real pain in the arse, been going on for almost a year now.

I read people with breaking up spark have the same kind of symptoms - bogging down at high RPM, it gets worse as the engine gets hotter, it will pull through the bogging down if you rev it through fast enough. Am I correct in saying these are the symptoms? Is it caused by high compression weakening the spark?
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Yes correct. have you tried a colder plug? Are you using heat range 6 or 7? Could try gapping them down a little.
If its not that then i'd be checking valve clearance we came across this on a b18c before where when very hot it was missing at high rpm ended up been valve clearance too tight, it wasn't overly tight but when we set the clearance looser it never happened again.
 
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