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- Dec 22, 2008
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As I could not find a guide for this, I figured i'd put up a very basic one for others to use. The job itself is not very difficult however it is very awkward depending on what you have or don't have on your car when your doing it.
The only tools you'll need is a selection of:
10, 12, 14, 17 and 19mm sockets / wrench and a pair of cutters.
I started off underneath the car; firstly raising a jack underneath the engine to take the weight off the mount your working at with a bit of wood to spread the weight evenly. Then remove these two 19mm bolts. You will probably need to remove your O2 sensor to remove these but i would recommend removing your manifold as the O2 sensor can be unbelievably tight and if your working on the floor it'll be near impossible to remove, just remember to unclip it first!
Next you will need to remove your airbox and pipework to the TB. Once they are out of the way you may also want to undo the following.
This will give you a bit more room to manover the L bracket out and also to get your tools in to access the bolts!
Now that those are out of the way we can start work at removing the rear mount (very awkward
) On this side (drives side) you undo the 14mm bolt holding the mount to the subframe.
Also on the drives side is a very awkward and hidden bolt holding the L bracket to the engine. Take care not to damage your VSS wiring as it runs infront of this bolt.
On the Passengers side there is another two bolts. A 14mm bolt holding the mount to the subframe and A long bolt holding the L bracket to the mount. (This can be very awkward if your inlet manifold is on the car as there is not much room and loads of pipes and hoses in there to get in the way!)
Once you have that long bolt out you can start the very awkward task of removing the L bracket so that you can undo the final bolt holding the mount to the subframe. You may find that there is wiring cabled down on top of your L bracket, you will need to cut off the retaining clip (take care not to cut your wiring!!!) I took the L bracket out from the drivers side lifting and manovering the various pipes and cables around it as i progressed it out of the bay. (AWKWARD!) You may find it easier if you jack the engine up a little at the back as this gives you a little more room to work with!
Once you have the L bracket out there is another 14mm bolt holding down the mount undo this bolt and it will come out handy. Sorry no photos of this...
When installing the new mount, put it in position install the front most bolt first hand tight then the two rear bolts and tighten them all up then. Once your new mount is in and secure you can have more fun getting the L bracket back in. Once its in I choose to attach the two 19mm bolts first and then lower the jack slowly until the other two holes aligned with the engine and mount. I got all the bolts in first hand tight and then tightened them all up properly with the ratchet. Once the mount is in you can re-attach any brackets you moved.
Passengers side mount.
I moved the jack over to the passengers side and jacket it up slightly (take care where you jack as the oil pan is on this side and it will break if you jack up on it without spreading the load. Once the weight is supported there are a few brackets you will want to remove, again to give you more access to remove the bracket and allow you to get your sockets in there! The brackets that hold the AC (if you have it), there is one on the cam cover and one on the strut tower also there is a box held on by two bolts that you will want to undo.
Once those brackets and hoses are free to move a little the swap is pretty straight forward. There are two large nuts holding the engine up to the mount, one nut holding a bracket from the mount to the engine and Three small 14mm bolts holding the mount to the chassis. You will probably have to lift and adjust the PAS reservoir to undo these and remove the OEM mount.
The oem Bracket is probably going to be different than your aftermarket replacement on this side.
Once the oem mount is out you can install the new mount, My mount was a simpler version of the oem mount, get the mount in place and start the three bolts that hold the mount to the chassis once these are all started tighten them up fully. Once the mount is secure to the chassis, i would advise jacking the engine up into the mount. ( this will decrease the likelihood of threading the nuts!)
Drivers Side mount.
This is the easiest by far, again i moved the jack over to this side and took the weight off the mount. I started off by removing the bracket from the transmission first by removing the three 17mm. Then undo the Long bolt holding the Bracket to the mount.
Once the bracket is off you will have access to the remaining three bolts holding the mount to the chassis. (you may want to lower the jack slightly as this will give more access to the lower and rear bolts.
Once those three bolt are off the mount will be free, simply put your new mount in and redo the three bolts. Then I choose to put the bracket back on the transmission with the two 17mm nuts and bolt and then raise the trans to the mount and insert and tighten the long bolt.
Make sure its all tightened up and then you can re-install your airbox and piping and whatever brackets you have undone or moved. I have not stated where new bolts or washers were used as this could be independent towards different makes of engine mount you are using to replace your old ones.
The only tools you'll need is a selection of:
10, 12, 14, 17 and 19mm sockets / wrench and a pair of cutters.
I started off underneath the car; firstly raising a jack underneath the engine to take the weight off the mount your working at with a bit of wood to spread the weight evenly. Then remove these two 19mm bolts. You will probably need to remove your O2 sensor to remove these but i would recommend removing your manifold as the O2 sensor can be unbelievably tight and if your working on the floor it'll be near impossible to remove, just remember to unclip it first!
Next you will need to remove your airbox and pipework to the TB. Once they are out of the way you may also want to undo the following.
This will give you a bit more room to manover the L bracket out and also to get your tools in to access the bolts!
Now that those are out of the way we can start work at removing the rear mount (very awkward
) On this side (drives side) you undo the 14mm bolt holding the mount to the subframe.
Also on the drives side is a very awkward and hidden bolt holding the L bracket to the engine. Take care not to damage your VSS wiring as it runs infront of this bolt.
On the Passengers side there is another two bolts. A 14mm bolt holding the mount to the subframe and A long bolt holding the L bracket to the mount. (This can be very awkward if your inlet manifold is on the car as there is not much room and loads of pipes and hoses in there to get in the way!)
Once you have that long bolt out you can start the very awkward task of removing the L bracket so that you can undo the final bolt holding the mount to the subframe. You may find that there is wiring cabled down on top of your L bracket, you will need to cut off the retaining clip (take care not to cut your wiring!!!) I took the L bracket out from the drivers side lifting and manovering the various pipes and cables around it as i progressed it out of the bay. (AWKWARD!) You may find it easier if you jack the engine up a little at the back as this gives you a little more room to work with!
Once you have the L bracket out there is another 14mm bolt holding down the mount undo this bolt and it will come out handy. Sorry no photos of this...
When installing the new mount, put it in position install the front most bolt first hand tight then the two rear bolts and tighten them all up then. Once your new mount is in and secure you can have more fun getting the L bracket back in. Once its in I choose to attach the two 19mm bolts first and then lower the jack slowly until the other two holes aligned with the engine and mount. I got all the bolts in first hand tight and then tightened them all up properly with the ratchet. Once the mount is in you can re-attach any brackets you moved.
Passengers side mount.
I moved the jack over to the passengers side and jacket it up slightly (take care where you jack as the oil pan is on this side and it will break if you jack up on it without spreading the load. Once the weight is supported there are a few brackets you will want to remove, again to give you more access to remove the bracket and allow you to get your sockets in there! The brackets that hold the AC (if you have it), there is one on the cam cover and one on the strut tower also there is a box held on by two bolts that you will want to undo.
Once those brackets and hoses are free to move a little the swap is pretty straight forward. There are two large nuts holding the engine up to the mount, one nut holding a bracket from the mount to the engine and Three small 14mm bolts holding the mount to the chassis. You will probably have to lift and adjust the PAS reservoir to undo these and remove the OEM mount.
The oem Bracket is probably going to be different than your aftermarket replacement on this side.
Once the oem mount is out you can install the new mount, My mount was a simpler version of the oem mount, get the mount in place and start the three bolts that hold the mount to the chassis once these are all started tighten them up fully. Once the mount is secure to the chassis, i would advise jacking the engine up into the mount. ( this will decrease the likelihood of threading the nuts!)
Drivers Side mount.
This is the easiest by far, again i moved the jack over to this side and took the weight off the mount. I started off by removing the bracket from the transmission first by removing the three 17mm. Then undo the Long bolt holding the Bracket to the mount.
Once the bracket is off you will have access to the remaining three bolts holding the mount to the chassis. (you may want to lower the jack slightly as this will give more access to the lower and rear bolts.
Once those three bolt are off the mount will be free, simply put your new mount in and redo the three bolts. Then I choose to put the bracket back on the transmission with the two 17mm nuts and bolt and then raise the trans to the mount and insert and tighten the long bolt.
Make sure its all tightened up and then you can re-install your airbox and piping and whatever brackets you have undone or moved. I have not stated where new bolts or washers were used as this could be independent towards different makes of engine mount you are using to replace your old ones.
Last edited:
rep added.
