Rebuild....B16B Pistons in B18C?


Buckyy

Buckyy

Active Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2014
Messages
256
In the process of rebuilding a 96 Spec B18c...it's basically getting a full refresh. Parts are as follows.

New OEM B18c Crank
New ACL Main Bearings
New ACL Thrust Washers
New OEM Big End Bearings
Full Bottom Set of OEM Gaskets
New OEM Oil Pump
New Set of OEM Head Bolts
New OEM Thermostat
New OEM Timing Belt, WP and Thermostat
New OEM Head Gasket Kit
Head Skimmed and Cleaned
Block Skimmed, Bored Honed and Cleaned

Cams upgraded to B16B

Want to do this once and right, block is oversized 0.25 now, not sure of what Pistons to use, would like to keep it OEM and use the CTR B16B ones but seeing some bad reviews? Going to be running road fuel also...what sort of compression would CTR make and are they safe?
 
With stock head and block (not milled) you are at 12.8 CR with PCT pistons 0.25 oversized.

You should better get the P73-00 from JDM B18C and you will be at 11.3-11.4 CR being 0.25 oversized.
 
I would rather go high compression while doing this build to make it worth while
 
Pct pistons are heavy, not great for high rpm builds, you may be ok on oem cams?
 
That's what I don't know, I've have forged Pistons there but would like to keep it all OEM
 
12.8 static CR with oem cams will give a high dynamic CR and high pressure in cylinders.

With 12.8 it would be better to upgrade cams.
 
OEM components work well together in a stock format. But when you change the air flow dynamics ( like compression ratio ), the OEM structure can become the weak point of a build.
With high compression, forged pistons (OEM are cast ) are what your gona want due to their characteristics- lighter weight , stronger, and less prone to detonation. Even Type R cams can be limiting over 11:1 compression ratio. In a perfect world, the cam shafts would be a custom grind due to your particular set up to yield the most power from your build.
Higher compression can make more power at the higher RPM's, but needs to be accompanied with high compression cams that can rev higher and make more power where you want it, at the upper part of the RPM structure. It all needs to work together for power and reliability.
I would also strongly recommend replacing your head bolts with ARP head studs, and your rod bolts with ARP bolts as well. The amount of "stretch" that happens at higher RPM's to an engine components can show the weakest link. So build it strong. :nice: Good luck on your build!
 
Thanks MotorM, I already have a full set of OEM Headbolts got, don't think this engine will be over 220bhp with the spec that's in it...I was just going to use standard rods and bolts from what my engine builder said but when I'm this far in ARP rod bolts would be a good idea...I was told no need for forged rods unless going over 250bhp is this correct?
 
OEM rods are fairly stout as Honda likes to over engineer everything. I've seen people run up to 400 HP on stock rods and axles with out problem. Indeed, listening to your engine builder is always a good idea. Stock rods, studs, and bolts should be strong enough for your power goals. I've always thought that over building an engine with things like ARP bolts and upgraded rods and such is considered "armor" for those random mishaps- like mis shifting and over revving. But you should be fine.
Last note I will leave you with- A good tune is everything. I've seen a very good tuner run a stock B18C, boosted at 18 psi, dyno tuned at 500 HP on E85. He daily drives it, and runs it down the drag strip as much as possible, with no problems. I've also seen a built B18C, naturally aspirated, with a crappy tune, that caused the motor to eat itself with in a month. A good build mean nothing with out a good tune, from a reputable tuner. Your project looks super fun- enjoy the process!
Let me know if you have any questions on the swap as I just installed a B18C1 in my 97 Hatch.
 
ARP Rod Bolts ordered and rolling with the Weiscos, should be together before Christmas

Thanks lads
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top