Oil catch for high powered NA and Turbo apps


Ramvtec

Ramvtec

Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2009
Messages
191
There is this always much raised question about crankcase pressure and the system used to lower, i know from the na builds endyn do a modified moroso tank do you think this would be applicable in the turbo sector to, if not i am well interested in developing one esp for the turbo app with you guys, blinx and ra, im studyin to be a race engineer and there are lots of nice expensive tools in my uni so just let me know of ideas and stuff and we could start fabrication.....
interested in hearing your comments JP
 
There are some essential basics to consider when designing a catchcan that's purpose is to ventilate the crankcase pressure.

1) size - if an intricate baffling system is not implemented, the size of the can must be bigger to ensure the surface area internally can adequately act as a "filter"

2) size of hoses - arguably, the larger the better - this ensures that any vaporous oil does not get continuously dumped into the can. Small hoses promote fluids to be carried along.

3) mounting - you'll have to determine a smart and effective location but you're limited, as the can must be mounted high to be effective.

4) street legal, race only or both? What's the target market and focus here?

Catchcans can be made to be very elaborate with one way check valves and trick internally baffling, but unless you recognize that not many people understand what benefits a proper can provides, many will be driven to purchase eBay or lesser designs.
 
personally for me, it didn't work well.

I've mounted it as high as everybody has and the ratio of it working vs. not working is 70% yes and I belong to the failure group.

Each motor is different and I can't explain why my motor seems to produce more crankcase pressure. It filled up the can and ended up spitting out and dousing the motor partially with oil. It also caused the reversion and the rapidly filling tank would "spit" oil back into the vent causing it to get burned and make a pretty cool 007 smoke screen on track.
 
lol not very good then, i think a clever baffle design here might be able to help you, i used to work on comerical fishing boats and we had to clean the fuel strainers all the time they are a series of sive kind of things, they could work of a set of staggered steps switching from side to side,
 
I think th Endyn unit is too small! I personally have a 1000cc Greddy can that i have modified by adding a -10 on the bottom and a filter on the top, two lines to to the block ports while the -10 on the bottom Tee's back into one of the block port lines to drain the oil that is caught in the can, i am trying to vent pressure not catch oil ;)

Before i had the drain back the can would fill up very quickly, maybe after 7-10 pulls, now i never have a problem :nice:
 
do you rekon youcouldget some pics or sketches up, ps how do i get pics on here i have some flow data for a b16a head that i want to share.
 
This is a good discussion, I'd like to see the outcome.

I myself will be using a HI^COMP built poor mans r for the track, and would like to know more about this. I know most people are reverting to mild built engines again, but I'm stuck with what I built.

So I might as well make it as efficient as possible.
 
i wouldnt have to get the gallon one would i the smaller one would do would it,
 
b20b block 84mm
je+eagle pistons and rods 11.5comp (ill run it on vpower 99oct)
eagle crank (might get a stroked one let me know your opinion on that)
arp heads studs
acl race main and rod and thrust bearings
b18c type r valve train with b16b valves they flow better
b16a port and polished head or b18c, maybe a type r one
b16a b16b or b18c type r inlet depends on what i can find
1800 injectors (dunno if the b20 ones are anygood)
b16b girdle but raging says it has to be machined, i think i know where now i just use the normal b20 caps and then machine the bearing seats out of the girdle so it only acts as a brace and use the bolts from the b16b i presume there longer.
was gonna use the block guard but looking into pins now, think it was you blinx that said about that, not sure on the positions for them yet tho,
oil catch one of the b&r ones id say the smaller
emanage ultimate
think thats it lol

As i always say feel free to advise on other parts :)
 
Ramvtec said:
b20b block 84mm
je+eagle pistons and rods 11.5comp (ill run it on vpower 99oct)
eagle crank (might get a stroked one let me know your opinion on that)
arp heads studs
acl race main and rod and thrust bearings
b18c type r valve train with b16b valves they flow better
b16a port and polished head or b18c, maybe a type r one
b16a b16b or b18c type r inlet depends on what i can find
1800 injectors (dunno if the b20 ones are anygood)
b16b girdle but raging says it has to be machined, i think i know where now i just use the normal b20 caps and then machine the bearing seats out of the girdle so it only acts as a brace and use the bolts from the b16b i presume there longer.
was gonna use the block guard but looking into pins now, think it was you blinx that said about that, not sure on the positions for them yet tho,
oil catch one of the b&r ones id say the smaller
emanage ultimate
think thats it lol

As i always say feel free to advise on other parts :)
Click to expand...

I would advise against the whole idea of using a stroker crank or using the b16b girdle unless you really trust whoever is building the engine and you know they have precision measuring tools etc...

No need to use a block guard or block posts really, there are plenty of people with successful engines that use neither of these.

As far as the BR tank the smaller one should be good enough for you but honestly high compression 2.0 Vtecs seem to create A LOT of blowby in my experience, if using a small can i would see if they can build you a kit in -12(2 off valve cover and 1 drain back), pm them for there opinion, i would trust what they say :nice:
 
im building the engine myself,you rekon it would be ok without either guard or pins, i was thinkin of the girdle to keep protection at high revs, i want to be able to rev it pretty close to what a standard vtec would, is it valve clearences you are worried with concerning the stroker, ps forgot to mention the ge conversion kit,

your a sound dude man, fair play
 
I've tried alot of different system designs and think you should listen to this and mull it over...Consider only allowing breathing from top of the enging... i.e. the cam cover. dont use the two ports on the back of the block, A drainback system works well but would be drained back into the sump. Not halfway up the block.

The ports Honda has on there are suited to a high level oil scavenge stage on a dry-SUMP system, considering theyre actually half-way up two of the heads oil drain-back channels.

You'll also find great success putting the crankcase under vacuum from an electronic vac pump system instead.... alot of turbo cars pull vacuum in the crankcase via the turbo inlet.
 
Last edited:
will think about that, one other thing, to bring the oil feed for the vtec head can i just t piece the oil sender switch and run a line into the head, i ask because i want to put an oil cooler on it and use the sandwich plate doing that and not for the oil feed, would the pressures be ok doing that.
 
Ramvtec said:
im building the engine myself,you rekon it would be ok without either guard or pins, i was thinkin of the girdle to keep protection at high revs, i want to be able to rev it pretty close to what a standard vtec would, is it valve clearences you are worried with concerning the stroker, ps forgot to mention the ge conversion kit,

your a sound dude man, fair play
Click to expand...

For revving safely to about 8500rpm the quality of the build is most important, balance of parts, clearance of bearings etc... The reason i suggest you stay away from adding the girdle or stroking the motor is i worry that you may have to align hone your mains which is a costly process even here in the US and hard to find people who can do this.
 
ya i understand dude, well ill have it balanced,ill weight all my rods and pistons and match them best i can as for clearences acl only do one side dont they so as long as my crank isnt scored she should be ok, what if i was to use the standard main caps and machines the b16b girdle down flat like a girdle you would buy from endyn,
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top