Oh god why


2Slow2Sensible

2Slow2Sensible

Proud EJ9 Owner
Donator
Joined
Feb 3, 2014
Messages
519
So, going home yesterday, after I spotted the Bug eye DC2, going round a roundabout, I went through some diesel I didn't see and I spun my EJ9. I nearly shat myself.

I felt the car shift its entire weight from my side onto the passenger side which made it snap back, and hence I spun.
Anyway, enough is enough.

Rota Grid V's on the way with some Yoko AD08's to keep me secure. Had enough of mismatched tyres (it came when I purchased the car)

What I also want is to reduce roll.

I was looking at a rear strut brace, however I've been told that tearing the seam or something like that is possible if I upgrade the rear LCA's. So I need some advice on how to stiffen up the car. I'll be stripping the rear closer to summer with a cage at the back, it's only a 1.4 yes I know that. but handling is my number 1 priority at the moment not power! (People telling me I should swap instead being nobs lol)

Sorry for the long post. Cheers guys, you can imagine how fed up I am with the body roll shite. Need's sorting
 
if there is diesel on the road is doesn't matter whats on your car, you're still going to slide about?!?! the rear subframe can tear if you fit a large ARB without a subframe brace on non ek9's. Rear strut braces are fine, I would get one like tegiwa's as it a simple straight bar. wouldn't waste your time and money on a cage unless your going to weld it in and track the car. I would recommend running the same tires all round or at the very least the same two on front and two same on back. As for body roll a larger ARB will help and maybe some stiffer springs? (IDK if the 1.4 civics have a ARB as standard?)
 
Get a rear arb, ASR brace and some rear LCA's. You should notice quite a difference. Cage might be a bit overkill for an EJ9, unless you have a B or K series engine in there of course. If it's still the original engine, eventually you'll want more performance and I'd rather save my money for a good swap instead of a cage.

If you do decide to buy strut bars, look for one piece designs (Password JDM, Carbing, Ultra Racing...). I believe they are slightly better.
 
I'll be K swapping it next year once I have some more no claims under me belt. I'm a strong believer in declaring to insurance since it's time+money I don't want to lose out on. and I will be tracking the car. Snetterton is on the list of places I want to time attack.

I have a plan drawn out for it (I know it's a wee bit optimistic but hey)
Plans: Strip rear half, remove sound deadining
Install full cage (weld in)
Get meisterr coilies on Federal RSR track tyres (rims will be something I don't mind getting scuffed)
Fibre glass seats
reduce weight where I can so things like electric mirrors will be changed to manual
I'll be going on a diet LOL etc etc.

But yeh, K20a2 is on the table.

However having been driven about in the 2015 Type R concept I might just wait it out...... ( I work for an automotive company )
 
elchunk said:
if there is diesel on the road is doesn't matter whats on your car, you're still going to slide about?!?! the rear subframe can tear if you fit a large ARB without a subframe brace on non ek9's. Rear strut braces are fine, I would get one like tegiwa's as it a simple straight bar. wouldn't waste your time and money on a cage unless your going to weld it in and track the car. I would recommend running the same tires all round or at the very least the same two on front and two same on back. As for body roll a larger ARB will help and maybe some stiffer springs? (IDK if the 1.4 civics have a ARB as standard?)
Click to expand...

Problem is that the diesel I coped with, but it was coming back onto grip that the cars weight shifted like a granny on a skateboard and snapped me back to the left. I didn't have opposite lock on just a smidge of opposite steer to keep the front in check, but I did get thrown about a little.
 
Same happened to me years ago in my DC2, I was running Hankook RS2's & it just ****ed right off in the wrong direction (was doing maybe 20mph).
Managed to swing it back away from the huge sign post & onto a grass verge, which bent one of my SSR Spec C's - pissed me off, but could have been far worse!!

None of the *******'s driving behind me at the time stopped either. I think it was due to a diesel spill from a local DHL depot.

Whatever spec you run, diesel is still very slippy.
 
Biscuit said:
Same happened to me years ago in my DC2, I was running Hankook RS2's & it just ****ed right off in the wrong direction (was doing maybe 20mph).
Managed to swing it back away from the huge sign post & onto a grass verge, which bent one of my SSR Spec C's - pissed me off, but could have been far worse!!

None of the *******'s driving behind me at the time stopped either. I think it was due to a diesel spill from a local DHL depot.

Whatever spec you run, diesel is still very slippy.
Click to expand...

I was doing about 15mph :/ I know diesel is a right bugger, I know I could of held it though, but it was the weight shift that just took it. I ended up on a grass verge after mounting the kerb but luckily no punctures. Just a bent hubcap. Definitely going to be taking it a lot easier in the wet. I have bridgestones on the back but some shite mismatched tyres on the front. (no idea why it's like that. Once I start work, tyres, oils and breaks will be checked monthly)

Also had a guy in a bimmer look at me like I was some sort of muppet. I didn't even feel embarrased. Just dreaded going round to passenger side and seeing damage. luckily none. Ahh well, putting it down as another experience.
 
I also found out that one of the trucks servicing the petrol station just off one of the turns on that roundabout hadn't correctly closed the tap or some shite? That's what I was told n that's where the diesel came from.
 
Doh! Sticks with you though, I now go around the same roundabout at about 4mph ha.
 
If you want handling you should do things in this order (IMO)
Tyres - ad08/rsr/r1r any decent performance street tyre. Semi slick if you can afford.
Brakes - upgrade to ek9 system if possible with decent pads
Coilovers - almost any decent brand doesn't need to cost the earth
Camber arms - get the car set up at a lazer alignment shop with some negative camber
Arbs- probably do these before camber arms so you can dial the arms in ek9 bars are perfect!
Engine- b18c6 is best bang for buck IMO
Plate LSD - add the plate lsd to the set up and your laughing! Should out handle most cars on track once your used to driving it.

Follow this and you'll be flying around the bends!
 
Stripping just the rear is going to make it more tail happy, all the weight over the front and nothing at the rear, hardly a balanced chassis weight wise..
 
Is only a 1.4 engine over the front though.
Remove other bits of weight from the front say fibre glass bonnet? Aircon if they have it?
Also he said he wants grp seats so that's abit of weight from the middle gone.
 
I'd be taking out the following from the front:
Air con
power steering
go for a lightened radiator
thin out bumpers
grp seats
lightened steering wheel
lightweight mirror
full single screen digital clocks
(No gauges. No need)
Battery replaced to the back
speakers out.

basically a road worthy car that I can take around on a daily basis but also decent on track. I'm heavy, so the car will never be 50/50 but damn I'll drive it as hard on track as my talent allows for. I'm not a race car driver and I know that. It'd take a better driver to max out the cars capabilities once modded to a good spec but hey
 
Last edited:
Wouldn't running semi slicks on a road set up cause even more slip due to the inability to heat them correctly? I'd personally just run a better road tyre perhaps something from Hankook or Falken (I ran Falkens on my EJ9 as a daily with rear arb, different control arms, stiffer bushes and suspension, car stuck to the road on normal and wet conditions and didn't have much in terms of weight shifting)
 
Correct about the semi slicks on the road, unless warm day and spirited drive.

What's meant by thin out bumpers?
 
jesse888 said:
Correct about the semi slicks on the road, unless warm day and spirited drive.

What's meant by thin out bumpers?
Click to expand...

Skim them or just go with a lighter material. I am planning on using the AD08's for summer and some pilot sport 3's for wet.
I have to have a real think about this anyway. Looking to put a few k into the EJ over time.
 
Am I the only one who is a little bit worried by the fact you've just admitted to being unable to regain control of a car at 15mph and then are talking about fitting a 200bhp+ engine?
 
Crazy idea, but why not book some track sessions or a skid pan to learn how to recover from the back end stepping out.

I'd expect you'd probably bankrupt yourself trying to make up for lack of experience by installing shiny parts to a civic.
 
I've actually got a drift lesson coming up in an M3 as part of my birthday with a 3 supercar selection track day. I'll be doing an advanced driving course for vehicle stability management. The issue wasn't that I couldn't control it, there was very little I could do having gone through diesel, the problem was the weight shifted in such a way that it simply pushed the car outwards. It's hard to explain but I know what I felt
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top