Negative aspects of a k swap


the only weakness we have experience when it comes to k series swaps is second gear breaks really easy...(drag racing ) i don't know if it's the same kind of abuse when doing road racing....other than that , once you go K you forget about everything else...
 
They suffer from oil starvation above 8600rpm as the oil cavitates in the oil pump. This can be solved by get an earl modified S2000 oil pump. Most K20's don't rev past that though so its not a big problem

That's the word I was looking for, Knew I had read that a few times before.

Thanks
 
is it legal ?
in my country k swap is illegal.

and cost is a minus but
you can build a b20 with less money anyway not so reliable as the k...

oh i find another one gearbox is not as strong as on b series.
 
the cost of the swap and the sump clearance are the only two real negatives. gearbox can a negative if it hasn't got an LSD.
 
not had any probs with sump clearance on mine at all... not hit anything
tbh it sits no lower than the b20 sump...
 
They suffer from oil starvation above 8600rpm as the oil cavitates in the oil pump. This can be solved by get an earl modified S2000 oil pump. Most K20's don't rev past that though so its not a big problem

Trust me, they won't pack in if you rev them past 8600! I know personally of a few revving to 9000rpm with stock oil pump and they have proved the test of time IMO.
 
The Negatives i have found...
Sump Clearance - Minor, Just dont slam your car like an idiot
Cable Shifter - Minor, You get used to it quickly but still not a krisp as b-series.
Oil Starvation Issues - Minor, A well maintained K20 will never fail, get sump baffle incase.
No LSD..... Soon to be changed
The biggest negative is the nagging girlfriend cause of cost - Major Earache.. Install a 3" exhaust to dampen the noise ;)
 
Trust me, they won't pack in if you rev them past 8600! I know personally of a few revving to 9000rpm with stock oil pump and they have proved the test of time IMO.

You will know more than me on this subject this is just what I've read on a few places. I think hybrid racing have this on their site but they will do if they're selling the uprated ones
 
The Negatives i have found...
Sump Clearance - Minor, Just dont slam your car like an idiot
Cable Shifter - Minor, You get used to it quickly but still not a krisp as b-series.
Oil Starvation Issues - Minor, A well maintained K20 will never fail, get sump baffle incase.
No LSD..... Soon to be changed
The biggest negative is the nagging girlfriend cause of cost - Major Earache.. Install a 3" exhaust to dampen the noise ;)

"install 3' exaust to shut up girlfriend" epic quote, :nice:
 
You will know more than me on this subject this is just what I've read on a few places. I think hybrid racing have this on their site but they will do if they're selling the uprated ones

Bit of a scare tactic I think. Unless your revving beyond 9000rpm you'll be fine on stock oil pump
 
Reading the thread people are constantly comenting "no negatives" but how many have owned or even driven a k-swap?

cant lower it-sump clearance, cant corner-no lsd-need an accusump cos of the oil issues, and the handeling is awful

Apart from the effort and it is, to do the k-swap it gets pricy its a name thing,
Ive done one, they drive in a straight line great but they loose there handeling abilitys,
I drove a mates one in a dc2 even worse, he said it him self it just feels off,

I said it friend of mine a race driver who has a k-swap done, says worst thing you can do to an eg or ek it upsets the weight balance the engine is made fit where its not supposed to, hence why he swapped his k20 into a N15 Nissan almera properly fabricated mounts.
 
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Negatives (from firsthand experience) -

1. Timing chain tensioner needs to be replaced every 20-30k miles or so especially if you decide on aftermarket camshafts. It is the weakest link in the k-series engine.

2. Ground clearance. I swapped out my k20a2/k20a aluminum pan (after it cracked) for a k24 steel pan which can come from any crv/accord/tsx. It gives a little more clearance and won't crack if you bottom out. It will also let you run a tsx/accord flywheel cover or "engine stiffener".

3. Cost. But in reality if you're going all-motor then a k-swap is the only way to go. I cannot believe people are still paying 3,000+ pounds for an aging b18c5 swap. A stock un-tuned k20a/a2 will make around 200whp and 140-160 lb/fts of torque.

4. Highly highly recommend going with Hasport EKK2's (If this is going into an ek9) over EKK1's. Although EKK1's allow you to use your stock EK subframe, it gives an undesirable axle angle (i'm on my 3rd set) and leaves very little room to run a thick aftermarket radiator.

5. Look at the k20a.org stickies for more in-depth info on k-swaps in general, how-to's, good companies, bad companies, potential issues during the swap, etc etc etc.

That's all i can think of for now. Hope this helps.
 
Lambo123;602114
chain tensioner needs to be replaced -try the skunk2 replacement ones

Hasport EKK2 heard about these because of the said issues, why dont you swap for them?
 
As already mentioned: weight distribution of the engine/gb in the car.
I heard the handling gets infected by that issue...
A stock EK9 is a well balanced machine. But with the K-swap, the weight distribution will be different...
 
On the road your k-swap wont handle any different to a b-series, you wont notice with the right suspension and tyres. Saying they handle "terrible" is a bit misleading. My own dc2 was standard when i first got it, after the k-swap i didint notice any difference to the b18 on the roads, familiar corners etc, if anything the front end was a lot tighter (hassports) and the Dc5 lsd is excellent.

If your building a track car then with the right suspension work, camber, tyres etc a k-swap can perform just as well as any b-series, obviously its down to the drivers ability

Example
k20 swapped ek smokes viper, rx-7 etc - YouTube

As for the sump, iv 16" wheels and 30mm springs, no problems at all, If you plan on hitting jumps at 100mph then a k24 sump and custom sump guard will solve your problem, Plenty of k-swap civics rallying these days.

Most people considering a k-swap want more power while staying n/a, and b-series will never provide the potential a k can, Its untill you line up a k-swap beside a b18 you realise the difference :nice:
 
Reading the thread people are constantly comenting "no negatives" but how many have owned or even driven a k-swap?

cant lower it-sump clearance, cant corner-no lsd-need an accusump cos of the oil issues, and the handeling is awful

Apart from the effort and it is, to do the k-swap it gets pricy its a name thing,
Ive done one, they drive in a straight line great but they loose there handeling abilitys,
I drove a mates one in a dc2 even worse, he said it him self it just feels off,

I said it friend of mine a race driver who has a k-swap done, says worst thing you can do to an eg or ek it upsets the weight balance the engine is made fit where its not supposed to, hence why he swapped his k20 into a N15 Nissan almera properly fabricated mounts.

First time I have heard anyone with such a negative view on K swaps.

Care to explain why they loose their handling. Weight of the engines are very similar. "Can't corner" "No LSD" "oil issues" "awfull handling" Those are some quite bold statements lol.
See plenty of K swaped cars on track competing they don't seem to have a problem getting round corners at all?? LSD is easily fitted, not exactly a major cost in comparison to the swap to start with. Weather the engine is in a swap car or car out of the factory how would the oil issues be any different its still the same engine, you don't really see that many K20's with problems?.

The spoon K20 EK9 that left all those other race tuned Type R's behind, running over 1 seconds a lap faster than the mojority of everyone else round Suzuka must have been running on fairy dust.

Civic battle EF9 vs EK9 vs FN2 vs FD2 @ Suzuka - YouTube
 
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