metal shavings in oil pan


using EK9 retainers mate but running standard rev limit anyway put standard cams back on as had a probleme one of the pulleys spun the end of the camshaft so running standard cams.

for running in i ran Total Activia 7000 10w40... i was recomended to use semi synthetic to run the engine in for around 1000 miles before pushing it car didnt hit vtec till 500 miles and didnt hit over 7000 before 1000. after that its had 3 track days with oil change every time.
 
Lets assume that the debris has always been present in the oil and isn't the result of the cam problems described.

Presumably the bottom end was rebuilt in which case you should have been using a mineral oil from run in otherwise you're not giving the engine a fair chance.

The next time you change the oil, filter off and see whether there's anything non magnetic in there. This should tell you something. If you still haven't cleaned the pan can you check to see whether any of this is non metallic? I've known people send off oil samples for analysis but I guess this depends on your paranoia.

If you're not going to inspect the bearings (which is a big job) there not much you can do but clean the pan thoroughly (special attention to baffle areas), keep a close eye on it and hope for the best.
 
what machine work was done to the engine as it does sound like left over debris? shouldn't think its the cams bedding in really, not to my knowledge anyway. if your not checking the bearings just make sure the sump is mega clean and also look inside of the engine whilst the sump is off as the debris does like to sit on the rods etc. also be sure to check vtec solenoid filters etc. to make sure theres no **** in there
 
I would just check the pressure relief valve on the pump , make sure its clean , oil/filter change and a gauge too.

Take it from there.
 
The big allen key bolt on the oil pump just above the lower alternator bracket , remove that , there is a spring and plunger. The spring and plunger is what regulates your oil pressure.
A build up of metal there can hold it open resulting in no oil pressure -> engine damage

Id recommend you fit a oil pressure gauge at the same time , so then you can watch the pressure at startup.
 
mineral oil has relatively poor lubricity compared with synthetic oils. This helps the rings seat properly.
 
so maybe the shavings are from hte bearings seeting then i used semi sythetic to run it in maybe it explains it.

no knocks or bangs anyway ticks over like a clock
 
so maybe the shavings are from hte bearings seeting then i used semi sythetic to run it in maybe it explains it.

no knocks or bangs anyway ticks over like a clock

Its more the piston rings seating than the bearings (nowadays).

The last thing you want to is glaze the bores when running the motor in which is the risk with a synthetic oil.

I haven't read anywhere in your posts that would suggest the rings have failed to seat properly so that is encouraging. Do you know what the PTW and ring end gap clearances are?

As a precaution you may want to attach a strong magnet to your oil filter. At the next change grind the back of the filter and see what accumulated. You've said yourself that the magnetic sump plugs aren't good enough in your case.
 
If the hone has been done properly you can run any oil from mineral to fully synthetic during run in

Its the quality of the hone not the oil that effects bed in of the rings !
 
To be honest mate i have not got a clue what PTW and ring gaps are, but the bloke that mounted the engine did it all according to honda's spec.

Also i thaught my sump plug was magnetic turns out it's not .... next time i order somthing i'l get one as paying 8 quid postage for a bolt with a magnet is pathetic i'd rathere drop the sump at every oil change lol
 
If the hone has been done properly you can run any oil from mineral to fully synthetic.

Its the quality of the hone not the oil that effects bed in of the rings !

Block was honed by a bloke that preps Rally cars he's worked for Pescarolo Racing so i'm sure that's not a problem to be honest he was the one that honed the block and cleaned the head and fitted the pistons to the rods.

Thing is he has moved and i cant get in touch with him at the moment or i would have asked him about this.
 
Just some perspective for thought;

After my rebuild, a ton of metal in the pan as well. Small bits as you describe.
My oil pump relief valve seemed to have collected a ton of metal as well during the break in period. to me this was the most shocking as there was a TON of the very same metal bits found there.

Anywho--even after 5 oil changes during break in, small bits were still showing up.
I had a ton of concern, to the point of having my tuner open up the bottom end to do a full scope. My oil pump had lost pressure most likely due to the metal bits in the oil.
Having the oil pressure gauge was key in helping to preserve the engine, I would have not known otherwise that there was an issue. [lost over 20psi across the board] [oil light on dash did not light up so dont count on that]

turned out that the metal bits were from the rebuild, nothing bad was happening within the engine...replaced the oil pump and all was back to normal.
No more metal bits other than normal wear and tear from track days.

Long a$$ story short, I think you are fine after you find out what your oil pressure is.
 
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so you reckon i really should open my oil pump ? not worth changing the pump is it ?

Will get guages as soon as i can afford it then... atm it's just not possible i'm being made redundant at the end of august ! sooooo can't go too mad
 
so you reckon i really should open my oil pump ? not worth changing the pump is it ?

...no, I think you need to invest a few bucks into an oil pressure gauge to see if there is a problem with the oil pressure/pump.

Will get guages as soon as i can afford it then... atm it's just not possible i'm being made redundant at the end of august ! sooooo can't go too mad

Personally I would put the gauge at the top of things to get done when you can. Scary to wait if you ask me.
 
yeah it's at the top but i can't afford the guage at the moment. it's going to cost me another 200 euro's to sort it out so sucks really.

And i've got a trackday on the 28th i've paid for it so can't go without a car lol
 
right been looking at guages and stuff do you lot reckon it's worth investing in an 11 row oil cooler ? just thinking while i'm at it i mite aswell fit one ?

i was looking at one of these :

12Tune.com - US-Racing Oil Cooler 11 Rows Kit (Universal) - Car Tuning & Styling in Europe - Stay Tuned!

with water temp guage oil pressure and ofcorse oil temp ....

or should i just get the guages for now ?

Well, what do you oil temps get to usually? Hard on track mine never topped 100 - so didn't need one.

Get a cheap oil press gauge which you can rely on for now if your not wanting a decent set, can usually pick them for for under £20, it's a necessity to be honest.
 
If the hone has been done properly you can run any oil from mineral to fully synthetic during run in

Its the quality of the hone not the oil that effects bed in of the rings !

I do not agree with this, bad advice.
 
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