k20a compaired to k20a2


lloyd

lloyd

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Joined
Jan 19, 2011
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im starting a k20 conversion myself so iv paying a lot of attention to other peoples projects over the last few months on the forum, iv noticed most people use k20a2's, im guessing because they are cheaper, im thinking of useing complete k20a running gear more for the lsd than anything else, i know in theory the k20a is the most powerful, but in the real world is there much difference? since most change intake and exhaust manifolds and map the ecu anyway? basically what im really asking is how much more expensive is the jdm k20a and is it worth the extra cost,?

and another thing thats been on my mind is, iv been read on US forums that a OEM combination of driveshafts can be used, i got totally confused tho as they use different model name's for cars as us, maybe someone could explain it in plain english to me, as id rather do this than buy an aftermarket set of shafts as most of them seem to have fitting problems,

any help appreciated :nice:
 
The difference in the engine if you are planning on doing RBC/RRC, good exhaust mani, KRPO, 3" exhaust/intake is going to be minimal so I would just buy a K20A2.

However I much prefer the K20A gearbox to the K20A2 gearbox, and so If you were planning on leaving the gearbox standard I would try and get a DC5 box.

Shafts, iirc the OEM combination is EP3 inners with bseries outer cv's. Dc5 shafts are either too long or too short I think.
 
As above, do not waste money on the K20a package, once the tuning starts there is nothing in it, the money you save will get you a used diff, always plenty of these around and it takes about an hour to install one into the box once off the car.

Some prefer the shorter ratios in the DC5 box, unfortunately you usually pay extra here.
 
I needed to use one EP3 inner and one DC5 inner to get the right lengths Of shafts
 
as said already the difference between the two engines is basically 2-3bhp and with the extra money saved youd have decent stage 2 cams installed in a k20a2. I've a k20a2 and i live over in tyrone if you do need one
 
thanks for the replys guys, :nice:
conalmcn said:
as said already the difference between the two engines is basically 2-3bhp and with the extra money saved youd have decent stage 2 cams installed in a k20a2. I've a k20a2 and i live over in tyrone if you do need one
Click to expand...
sure drop me a pm there, would prefer the k20a, but if the price is right the a2 wud do, :)
 
the dc5 has an "ultra-lightweight forged chrome-molybdenum steel flywheel"
fancy stuff
 
the k20a is far better and stronger engine all round so well worth the extra
 
Found this on another forum;

Compression, cams, pistons, valvetrain are different

K20a

Displacement: 1,998 cc (2.0 L; 121.9 cu in)
Bore x Stroke: 86 mm (3.4 in) x 86 mm (3.4 in)
Compression: 11.5:1
Power: 220 PS (160 kW; 220 hp) @ 8000 rpm
Torque: 196 N·m (145 lb·ft) @ 7000 rpm
Redline: 8600 RPM
i-VTEC Engagement: 6000 RPM


K20A2

Displacement: 1,998 cc (121.9 cu in)
Compression: 11:1
Power: 200 hp(147 kW) @ 7000 rpm
Torque: 142 lb·ft (193 N·m)* (196 N·m) @ 5600 rpm
Redline: 7800 RPM
Revlimiter: 8200 RPM
i-VTEC Engagement: 6000 RPM
 
You can have a k20a2 for the third of the price of a k20a, once in a hatch you won't even notice the difference once tuned. The only thing you'll notice is lack of LSD. For the price people want for k20a swaps you could build a k20/k24.
 
K24 for me is a no brainer. Stick it in, add some supercharging, good standalone management mapped well and you 240 / 250 bhp/torks. Power everywhere, and how many accord type S have been abused? Can buy an entire type s for 3k, so then you make monies on breaking the rest of it.
 
I would just go with the k20a2, I think the facelift ep3 also has a lighter flywheel like tge dc5
 
K20A2+ 2.2 drag cartel cams, RBC intake, says F the K20A... & ep3 final drive & carbon mesh synchro's in my tranny....ohhh yeah release the beast
 
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