Jesse888 Forged/stroker turbo ek9


Want to make the knock monitor a more permanent feature in the dash aswell. Especially for the long drag up the hill at the ring. If I get brave and go full boost I'll want to be sure it's not knocking so good to have it set up.
 
So hottest day of the year, perfect opportunity to see how high the IATs get and how it effects the engine.
30c ambient(ish) and I'm finding the intake air temps are in the mid 40c, resulting in some detonation above 7000rpm..good job I checked.... Perfect chance to play around with some compensation tables within the ecu so that if the temps reach this level on track the engine is safe.
 
So been a busy week.
IAT saga... Got to grips with the compensation tables within the ecu. I just need reliable data that's not heatsoaked by the manifold, it would be ok on prolonged periods of WOT but I can't test that on the road so the mani is soaking the sensor on the road.
Tried this little solution


Cut the insulation off the tip of the sensor, the result is a faster reaction to temp changes, it has been pointed out that perhaps the sensor needs the insulation to remain accurate, although I'm not sure this is entirely true as eventually the heat soaks though the insulation aswell....
It improved the response and the temp does drop faster on boost (still heatsoaked) So I think I'm going to move the sensor pre throttle body and try that.

New air filter and location, bigger K&N filter moved away from behind the rad, hoping this helps the intake temps aswell although it doesn't seem to have done(heatsoaked sensor)



Also some on my Facebook and instagram would have seen my latest toy.
Completely my brothers build all I did was advise some parts and weld it together.
125cc 4 stroke, 4 gear semi auto Drift Trike!
Here's two videos of it in action (hope these work)
Me riding "the wall" and my brother getting some impressive angle!
 
Interesting with the IAT. So what will the solution be? the use of a different IAT? maybe a faster reacting one? I can try and get you the part number off mine on the Evo if you want? As I have had to plumb one into the cooler pipe to run Speed Density, not sure on reaction times of the OEM Honda sensor but the one I have is supposed to be lightning quick. Would obviously need wiring in though which im assuming is possible...
Also I would recommend running the sensor anywhere between the start of the cold side IC pipe and the IM or else it will be reading incorrect intake temp.
I like the new filter location, should keep heat down and draw more cold air too!
Another interesting topic is that it looks like you are still running the torque mounts?
 
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I've kept the torque mounts because it feels like the engine moves abit on a gear change. Could probably do with some harder mounts but these used to shake the dash afew years ago. Would be a good weight saving to ditch them though.

I was planning to move the sensor to just before the throttle body, I want to run water/meth in the future and I want the injector for that after the dump valve(to minimise meth spilling into the engine bay)
I do think a faster sensor would be ideal tbh after a WOT pull the temp is still dropping for a good second before it responds and starts to rise again. so assuming I can get the calibration info on that evo sensor a part number would be great. If not there's a GM sensor in the drop down menu in hondata that makes it basically a bolt on affair.
 
Ahh OK so the uprated mounts have now started to go softer? yeah 100% benefit in the weight saving area.
Yeah that is where mine is just on the bend before the TB so circa 6'' away. Yeah because the injector for water meth needs to be some odd 11'' or so away from the TB doesnt it? should still be a fair distance from your BOV.
Yeah 100% I know that IAT sensors for bikes are fast reacting, I think the one I have MAY be a GM sensor but then again I think it may be an even faster reacting one than that... I will have a look see if the part number is on the sensor this evening for you.
 
Yeah the issue is my bov isn't that far from the throttle body so it leaves me with a short space to fit the sensor in because obviously I want the IAT sensor to detect the drop in temps from the water/meth. I'm not too sure if there's a recommended distance but I'm assuming it would be better to leave the spray with as little bends to get round as possible to stop it settling on the boost pipes and collecting etc.

With the mounts they are a 5 pieces set that came on a car from Japan but yes they've definitely got softer over time.

A part number would be great if you get the time bud.
 
It's not a GM sensor I have just done a little looking, it's a lot faster reacting than the GM.
Blue line. Fast acting
Red line. Gm Sensor.

Air temp sensor.JPG

Will have a look for part number ASAP.

Ben
 
Wow that is fast! Mine is slower than the red line atm.
I had it heat soaked up to 46c, pulled it out the mani and blasted it with compressed air for 10secs. Came down to around 28c iirc. I should have watched how fast it reacted but I couldn't see.
Sounds like even just a new sensor in the stock location would be a massive improvement.
I'll need to find the calibration info on the evo sensor. So basically 0v = x degrees c and 5v = y degrees c. From there I should be able to set it up in hondata.
 
A new sensor would probably improve things and would be easier than customizing it.
I had a look last night at the one I have but there is no obvious markings of make, all that is on there is 48 / 14 which doesn't mean a lot.
It's not a genuine Mitsi part as they don't come with IAT or MAP until Evo 9 as they run MAF but mine now runs MAFless, I have though found out that it is 100% from a motor bike but just trying to find out which one. I will keep trying for you.
 
So issues again today.
Tps problem has started to come back. Only drops afew % but it's still doing it. I did have the laptop plugged in so perhaps that's the issue but I doubt it tbh.
Also the wideband is reading abit lean and it's cutting lean protection in, last time it did this it was the wastegate. So stripped it again and one of the bolts has snapped inside the thread, so that will be a joy to fix. The rubber 0 ring bodge I did last time had gone all brittle so I'm hoping that's the problem again.
Tps issue I'm thinking just solder the pins straight into the TPS and then fill the space with polymorph or something. That will rule out the connection being the problem.
 
Brakes look really good :D
Sorry about the CB issue. For some reason it was machined to 64.1mm not 70.1mm.
With the short pedal, you can have a play with Master Cylinders to give you more leverage. Try a slightly smaller bore, this should increase the pedal.
 
Brakes look really good :D
Sorry about the CB issue. For some reason it was machined to 64.1mm not 70.1mm.
With the short pedal, you can have a play with Master Cylinders to give you more leverage. Try a slightly smaller bore, this should increase the pedal.

No problem, these things happen and you got it sorted quick. No harm no fail.
I really like the short pedal so I'd like to keep it, I'm thinking play with the height of the throttle pedal to get that heel toe alittle easier. will see what it's like on track first then make the next move.
 
I've kept the torque mounts because it feels like the engine moves abit on a gear change. Could probably do with some harder mounts but these used to shake the dash afew years ago. Would be a good weight saving to ditch them though.

+1 with this

Also concerning the location of IAT sensor I saw huge difference while datalogging a B18C6 with sensor on mani and my B16A2 with sensor on intake pipe. They are both N/A.

We will try to fit a civic 6th gen sensor on intake pipe of the B18 and check how it comes out. I think we should read much lower intake temp.

I'm also interested in knowing where does the fast reaction IAT come from ;)
 
Certainly the manifold is heat soaking the sensor, providing a false high reading. Eventually I'll move it to intake pipe but for now it's OK.
 
Not much going on here really, booked on a track evening at brands hatch tomorrow so I'll get to test the new brakes out!
Fixed the temp corrections issue I was having so afr won't go too rich this time round, should result in the engine running roughly 6% leaner than the last track outing.
Mounting the knock monitor on the dash so I can use that on track aswell, meaning I can probably push the tune alittle harder seen as I've got real time monitoring of engine knock.
Other than that not much going on really.
Since putting the new tyres on the car is very snatch under power which isn't ideal, I've put alittle bit of slip modifier in the gearbox to try and tame it down. It was fine on the old tyres (same tyre just worn)
Wondering if a driveshaft/cv issue could cause this?
 
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