is it worth it k swap?


as much as i love b series and always will i can happily admit k series is the way forward and is deffinately the superior engine and if you have the money i would say deffinately go kswap
 
How ever you word it, a K series engine will always surpass any B series. K is a 2000cc, what do they say? no replacement for displacement, K series provide much better torque, in most cases more power with simple bolt ons and no internal work needed, than a highly modded b18c. I would also say you maintain stock motor reliability in comparison with a highly strung B series engine.

If your on a budget, don't bodge a B series in, save your money for when you can afford a K.

Not to mention the potential of the K series when you mate a K20 head with a K24 bottom, or even stroke a K24 to a 2.6 :)
 
Kieran EG6
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Best post.

K is king.
 
It really is all up to you at the end of the day. You are going to get mixed reviews on a forum. Yes a kswap will be a little more money. But you will get more base line power and more power with bolt ons and kpro. It really depends on you and your budget. I have one in my car and will never own a bseries ever again. The power band is so cub greater than the b will ever think about being. If you tried to build a all motor b series you may get 200hp and 130trq. You will spend a lot of money to get a b series all motor to touch a reliable and stock k series motor. Just my $.02.... I drive my car all the time and it's stock with 215 whp and 150tq.
 
If I had the chance to start again I would go with a k series engine, bear in mind I have well over £10,000 in my current set up. Stock form the k series head flows around 280cfm, I had to spend around £2000 on mine to get it to this sort of level, the sleeves seem to take a bit more abuse than the b series handy if you fancy a proper bit of power with boost, it's not uncommon to see 600hp plus on stock sleeves.I don't agree with the no replacement for displacement bs, F1 cars back in the eighties were making 1300hp with only 1500cc, it's all about the efficiency of the engine (ve).
 
cool...will update with some pics right after my holidays...My buddy ek3 running the k swapped and the handling is not that good,i guess my ek9 could be of a better platform for the k20a and he would take over my b16b.its a go i guess....thank you so much guys.

The K20 is actually 10kgs lighter than a B16/B18 and with the latest engine mounts the K20 leans back further towards the cabin so it doesn't handle badly because of the engine...
 
It really is all up to you at the end of the day. You are going to get mixed reviews on a forum. Yes a kswap will be a little more money. But you will get more base line power and more power with bolt ons and kpro. It really depends on you and your budget. I have one in my car and will never own a bseries ever again. The power band is so cub greater than the b will ever think about being. If you tried to build a all motor b series you may get 200hp and 130trq. You will spend a lot of money to get a b series all motor to touch a reliable and stock k series motor. Just my $.02.... I drive my car all the time and it's stock with 215 whp and 150tq.

Im not actualy biast in either K20 or B20. You are right you will get quite mixed and biast reviews on a forum...^^

I was just noting their differences.

But I think your quite a bit off the mark with those statements though. Built N/A B series "might" get 200hp/130lbft. ??? Those are standard B18CR figures are they not???

A basic untouched B20 bottom end with a type R head and cams will see at the least around 215hp and 145lbft with the right breathing to suit. If you build the bottom end up to around the same compression as a JDM K20 with also a set of mild cams then should be looking at around 230-240hp and 150-160lbft. Still only costing around £1000 basic to £4000-£6000 fully built depending on how far you want to take it. Much the same as a K20 swap cost.

I think people over look the B20vtec build's too much as they have a worse reliability reputation.

Not saying B20 is super duper!! But its still a fairly considerable option.

K swaps seem to be all the rave lately but people need to remember its not the only option if all your after is more toque.

B20vtec builds can be reliable as there are plenty of examples out there. Just drop Daz at DNR an email and ask him how many builds he has done and how many have blown. I think you will be surprised. :nice:

Just to highlight again if i sound biast to B20's. The fact im actualy going to look at a K20 motor for my EG6 this weekend and will be buying it if its at the right price. :))
 
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the money you spend on a k swap you might aswell build a fully built B20

In my eyes the B Series belongs in an EK/DC2 and the K series in a EP/DC5.

But hey its your car and money so go with what you want and not what people on forums say:nice:

I totally disagree, i had a b18c-r ek4 and it got a nose in front of a b20, plus there unreliable as the engine wasent designed to cope with the high reving. my mate went through two engines and in the end he had to get a limiter fitted so it would only rev to 8200. id rather a b18c-r over a b20 anyday. but thats just my opinion.

As for a k20 into a ek9, it makes sense as the power to weight must be awsome the torque in a dc5 is unreal so in a ek9 it would snap you back in the seat,its most ek9 owners dream, but it costs alot of money. Only thing is the engine sits lower to the ground and its has an affect on the handling. but i would NOT let that put you off.:dance::ek9:
 
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I totally disagree, i had a b18c-r ek4 and it got a nose in front of a b20, plus there unreliable as the engine wasent designed to cope with the high reving. my mate went through two engines and in the end he had to get a limiter fitted so it would only rev to 8200. id rather a b18c-r over a b20 anyday. but thats just my opinion.

As for a k20 into a ek9, it makes sense as the power to weight must be awsome the torque in a dc5 is unreal so in a ek9 it would snap you back in the seat,its most ek9 owners dream, but it costs alot of money. Only thing is the engine sits lower to the ground and its has an affect on the handling. but i would let that put you off.:dance::ek9:

1. Torque = Acceleration
Not how high you can rev.

2. Lower center of gravity = Better handling

Just thought I would make those clearer.

Sorry if im rantting but I hate unexplained, opinionated comments.

Also just as a hypothetical statement (no factual names)

Just because "Billy Bobs" B20 he built went bang doesn't mean if he builds a k20 that wont go bang!! It means he didnt build the motor well enough or know its limits and treat it well enough!

Who builds a B20vtec and doesn't have a reasonable limiter??? The stock DC5 K20 rev limit is not much more than 8250rpm!
 
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The usual myths in this and other threads, the difference in the K20's engine weight, the position of it in the engine bay, the loss of the support bar in fitting the manifold...zero difference in the real world :)

A decent manifold, RBC & a tune will see you 170lbft (EP3 or DC5), and thats before a set of cams or other internal gear. The swap can be done cheaper than what I paid, and the labour really was minimal, a fair bit cheaper if you just want a road version, and its getting cheaper and more accessible all the time, I went out in a 1.9 EK9 some time back, built, cams and a gearset, equally good but maxed out, you can throw cash at any engine, all down to what you want at the end of the day.
 
Thanks guys,your information is definitely top notch and i learn alot from all the kind advices from the experts in forum.I was wondering if anyone had done this swapped with their ek9 and maybe we can have a point of view from the owner himself.That could bring us to another level of understanding if k swap is the route for any ek9ers who wants more usesable power and good enough handling to power us out of the last corner with a evolution just next to u!@260bhp on your right foot and waiting to abused with reliablility.Priceless
 
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maybe we can have a point of view from the owner himself. That could bring us to another level of understanding if k swap is the route for any ek9ers who wants more usesable power and good enough handling to power us out of the last corner with a evolution just next to u!@260bhp on your right foot and waiting to abused with reliablility.Priceless

Is this english ? cause i have a hard time reading it ...
 
I think this thread all boils down to personal opinions.

i have seen loads of b20's blow up but then i have seen a high comp d14 waste a b18.

i also know that the cpl racing k20's are running boost and standard internals and they have never blown up and i have had my b20 for over 5 years and over 80k and boosted and my engine has never blown up.

i can see the benifits in both engines, the same im not biast towards b or k my friends k20 powered dc2 rocks, but call me old fashion or a b series whore but i would rather stay with a b series anyday
 
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K20's are good.

My mum has one in her EP3. It impressed me and I've used both the B18C-R and B16. Stock for stock B18 wins for me without a doubt. If I was chasing numbers and torquezz, K20 for definite. IMO from reading forums etc.. K20's seem more troublesome in comparison to B's, But I'll not start that lol.

In terms of B20's it's who maps and builds them that is key IMO.
 
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