Hey Guys..
In the middle of building my Ek9 for some mild track use, drag strip etc - also daily drive. Would I see any power benifit from removing air con ??? I live in scotland so its not really needed. Also is there any lighter pullys out there etc without removing power steering etc.
Could some kind person give me a rough guide on how to DIY remove the Air Con pleae..
Many Thanks - Andy
Go to dealership and have it vacuum pumped out for £20 thatâs how much it cost at my dealership
GENERAL FUNCTION
COMPONENT LOCATIONS - ALL PICTURES ARE CLICKABLE FOR FULL SIZE
NOTE: The Evaporator is directly behind the battery on the EK9 and the lines to the condensor/Evaporater and the relay wires run along the cambelt side of the engine-bay. other component locations are the same.
*disconnect the pump earth, and the other two connectors that are immediately by the AC pump/ on firewall in front
*undo the two retaining 10mm head bolts holding the pipes onto the AC pump, get an old rag cover it then pull off; donât be alarmed if it releases some retained pressure as vacuum pumping always seems to leave a little bit of pressure on half of the system. -they have an o-ring that stick it down as a tight fit so you have to give it a little force. Donât let it spray on your hands or face, the oil that comes out is carcinogenic.
*then remove the two retaining bolts and uncouple the two pipes on the AC condenser radiator using a rag/cloth over the connector as you do it. Then remove the two bolts holding the top aluminium bracket, then simply lift out whilst double-checking you havenât left any connection connected. BEAR IN MIND that most on Hondas electrical connectors from this era require to the unclipped from the mounting/retaining bracket before you can unclip them, there is a sort of locking mechanism designed into them like this.!! Never pull by the wires. And donât forget to undo the fan's connector that is mounted to it.
*slacken the two locking bolts (12mm head) on the back of the PAS pump. Then slacken belt-tensioner on the PAS pump by turning the wing-nut anticlockwise to lower the pump. Once tension isnât on the belt then remove the two Locking nuts while holding the pump and unhook the belt.
At this point you need to grip the PAS reservoir and pull it up vertically off of its bracket. Then place it to the left of the bracket itâll just hang there on the hydraulic lines. Donât worry about this just make sure you donât scratch your bay.. The reservoir can be tilted upside and wonât spill! Just so you know.
-Then remove the AC dryer unit, this is a cylindrical unit under the washer filler that sits through the chassis and hangs behind the washer bottle. Again remove the electrical connector. Two retaining bolts, two lines and 1x? mounting bolt. lift the unit out
NB: donât worry about bending the lines slightly you wonât split kink or break them easily.
*next will have to remove your battery and maybe tray... if you have a high quality alarm system with lots of functions like Clifford then put it into VALET mode before removing the battery - always disconnect negative first THEN positive, and reconnect negative last!
Heres my catch can just to the left of it...
*then remove the retaining bolt from each line and 'pop' the pipes off of the firewall. One leads to the rad and the other to the dryer.
There may be some brackets that need to be removed in between but otherwise itâs fairly straight forward. To remove the line that goes to the dryer you'll definitely have to remove at least one bracket and also undo the two 10mm head bolts holding the ABS relay box's mounting brackets to the chassis. The pipes just 'clipped into place' via some plastic grips around the side and front of the passenger suspension tower.
*next using a 14mm socket, undo the hex-bolt at the back of the tensioning pulley which is located at the AC pump. mounted onto that bracket. Unbolt this and remove the pulley completely, this will also let you remove the belt. upto the engine mount. You can use a 14mm socket and extension with the splash guard and nearside arch line removed to unbolt the two AC/motor mounts bolts that bolt to the bottom of the frame-rail. then slide the belt over it and re-torque to factor spec. if you donât want to remove all the bumper and arch liners to do this then you can simply cut the belt and fit a new one IF you re-install.
*now there is FOUR 12mm head mounting bolts that hold the pump to the bracket mounted to the front of the engine, done undo the larger bolts as these holt that mounting plate to the block. You WILL need an extension.
Undo the bottom two first then the top two as common sense would suggest.
Here is the Bracket removed..
Off-topic, I had to modify my bracket (and dipstip tube) to clear the down-pipe. This engine mount doesnt do much now I have uprate the main 3x mounts on my engine...but Im happier keeping it on there.
*then go into the car empty your glove box and remove CORRECTLY so as not to bend or damage the glove box as so...
Using a suitable sized Phillips head screwdriver undo the two black bolt/screws underneath the glove box vertically (these are on the hinges) then pull the handle towards you an inch allowing the glove box to be lowered and removed using no force.
With the gloebox out this is what youll see.. (ignore the extras)
With AC filter door removed (unclips from top after the next couple of points are followed in my text below)
*then unclip the left side trim adjacent the door next that runs alongside the glove box