How to do 5 lug conversion


Where did you got the conversion kit, and how much you paid for it? And also, when you made this change, you changed also the brake booster, or the regular one on your DX is good enough?
 
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Where did you got the conversion kit, and how much you paid for it? And also, when you made this change, you changed also the brake booster, or the regular one on your DX is good enough?

I got the conversion kit from Canada. It was a private seller at a warehouse but a lot of money was on the line so I wanted everything to be absolutely secure; I told him to make a eBay post of it and I would buy it immediately because that would be the most secure way. I did the conversion without changing the brake booster and master cylinder at first and I could BARELY brake on my car. I would drive at 20 mph and then slam on the brakes to test it; my car would just casually stop slowly. I had no choice but to upgrade it to the Integra GSR 1'' Master Cylinder and also the bigger brake booster. The kit was really expensive. I got it for exactly $911. It was from a Civic Type R and it used 32mm axles. It came with everything.
 
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Face it you dont know what you are doing.

EVERYONE beware of this kid.
 
one thing i would add to your videos is, disposable Gloves especially when working with brake fluid. It is very toxic and easily avoidable with simple p.p.e.
 
Face it you dont know what you are doing.

EVERYONE beware of this kid.

Bad hangover from new year?
Jump off your high horse and calm down.

He's spent a lot of time making these videos, and must enjoy doing so.
No one is going to suddenly go and buy a 5 stud conversion and fit it because of this video?! It just outlines the job.

Chill out a little mate, no need for the over the top reactions.
 
hi michael. one question, can i reuse my original front brake hose for this swap? mine din come with the brake hose. I asekd the seller he said it's the same.
Iam doin the conversion this weekend hope to gather all the neccasary stuff before i start. btw car is ori JDM EK2 small front brake
THanks.
 
hi michael. one question, can i reuse my original front brake hose for this swap? mine din come with the brake hose. I asekd the seller he said it's the same.
Iam doin the conversion this weekend hope to gather all the neccasary stuff before i start. btw car is ori JDM EK2 small front brake
THanks.

It should be the same but I'm not 100% sure. If it doesn't work, then buy a hose for a 2001 Integra Type R if your in USA at your local auto store. It's shouldn't be too expensive but I'm pretty sure your stock ones will work.
 
It should be the same but I'm not 100% sure. If it doesn't work, then buy a hose for a 2001 Integra Type R if your in USA at your local auto store. It's shouldn't be too expensive but I'm pretty sure your stock ones will work.

Thanks for the fast response.i jus removed my 4 lugs knuckle, test fit the banjo nut seems like it will fit. Will try to assemble back everything tomorrow to see if thr is any leak.
 
Hi michael, jus done my conversion. The front brake hoses fit perfectly . But my brake feel quite soft after bleeding , mine alrdy changed to double later booster but 15/16 master cylinder. Is it the cause?
 
Hi michael, jus done my conversion. The front brake hoses fit perfectly . But my brake feel quite soft after bleeding , mine alrdy changed to double later booster but 15/16 master cylinder. Is it the cause?

Yes. I don't know what you mean by double later booster but if you read the video description carefully on youtube, I talk about that. I had the exact same weak braking problem after the 5 lug swap which absolutely makes sense because the new front and rear braking system has been both dramatically enlarged and upgraded which takes a lot more effort to squeeze the brake calipers. The stock ones before were way too weak to squeeze it correctly. You have to get the master cylinder and brake booster upgraded to the same one that the Civic Type R uses. The USDM 2001 Integra GSR and Integra Type R both use the same brake booster and master cylinder as the Civic Type R which is a 1" master cylinder bore. The brake booster looks noticeably larger than the stock base model civic too. When you change to the 1" master cylinder, you have to use a brake line flaring tool to flare out one of the ends of the brake lines because one of the bolts is larger than the stock civic ones.
 
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Yes. I don't know what you mean by double later booster but if you read the video description carefully on youtube, I talk about that. I had the exact same weak braking problem after the 5 lug swap which absolutely makes sense because the new front and rear braking system has been both dramatically enlarged and upgraded which takes a lot more effort to squeeze the brake calipers. The stock ones before were way too weak to squeeze it correctly. You have to get the master cylinder and brake booster upgraded to the same one that the Civic Type R uses. The USDM 2001 Integra GSR and Integra Type R both use the same brake booster and master cylinder as the Civic Type R which is a 1" master cylinder bore. The brake booster looks noticeably larger than the stock base model civic too. When you change to the 1" master cylinder, you have to use a brake line flaring tool to flare out one of the ends of the brake lines because one of the bolts is larger than the stock civic ones.

but mine previous changed to 15/16" brake cylinder. type r one is 1". is really that much different?
 
but mine previous changed to 15/16" brake cylinder. type r one is 1". is really that much different?

Yes. I'm pretty sure there's a reason why there's three different sizes created so they must be different or else Honda would have not made them in the first place. I thought the same thing too because to me, even the 7/8" isn't that much smaller than 1" when it comes to simple measurements but I guess when it comes to master cylinder bore size, its a noticeable difference in power.
 
Ya should be. Then I need to search for EK9 1" brake master cylinder...I noticed my bleeder valve is leaking. I tighten it like mad after found out leaking, the next day still a bit wet.how do u think?
 
I make my conversion 12 years ago, DX brake line works fine,But if you are going to replace it go with breaded lines.
I will explain that latter... You will need a brake master cylinder for e Civic SI 99-2000 or EM1. That way you don't need to re place the brake booster. Make sure you replace the Proportion valve from the EM1 or civic SI 99-2000. make sure wen you crack the lines from the valve to label it with number to know with one is the rear left,rear right,front L,front R.The faster way to do this is went you remove all the brake system in the car the lines has to be open... with a blow gun just blow it from the valve each line and put a peace of tape in the line with the proper identification... I great to blow it and take all the old brake fluid out from the system. Please, charge the master cylinder in a bench first.. is messy but strongly recommended. Install the master in the booster,connect the lines the proper way. Now got to a junkyard and look for any 96 up Integra or 99-00 civic SI and remove the brake booster vacuum hose with the check valve. The Dx Check valve is to small and the pedal will fill harder. Notice the the check valve has a arrow indicated wish way go...Now I replace the brake fluid from DOT 3 to DOT 4 this is why the breaded line come handy. you got a bigger master with a bigger proportion valve and bigger brake so the temperature will be hotter then before. Bleed the system starting from the rear right first then front left,then rear left and final front right. The best way for my is the old fashion way.... a bottle with brake fluid ,a small vacuum house to the bleeder and the other end inside the bottle. That way air will come out from the system and not get back to the system... Pump slowly not rush it like 3 to 5 times each, wen you pump faster small bobbles create in the system and they are hard to bleed. Make sure wen to adjust the E-brake cable until you have 5 to 7 clicks in the E-brake handle.. Now the final step is to adjust the brake master cylinder pedal shaft. lose the 12mm nut and clock wise the shaft....NOW make sure not to over adjusted the car wont move....or you will over heat the rotors,if this happen you wen to far and loos it up a bit. Make sure you feel comfortable with the pedal....Re-check for leaks and THAT'S IT your car will be fell 10x beater.
 
Ya should be. Then I need to search for EK9 1" brake master cylinder...I noticed my bleeder valve is leaking. I tighten it like mad after found out leaking, the next day still a bit wet.how do u think?

I have a feeling you might have overtightened the bleeder valve when you bled it for installation, and it wore out the threads on the bleeder bolt or threaded housing on the caliper. Try to buy another bleeder bolt and HOPE AND PRAY that the bolt is stripped and not the caliper housing. By the way, don't get the 1'' master cylinder from an EK9 because it's cheaper to get it from an Integra GSR and I think the RS, GS, LS Integra's all use the same 1'' too but not too sure about them. Don't waste your money on an EK9 master cylinder because even a USDM ITR 1'' master cylinder is cheaper than the CTR one.
 
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