Cooling system info


jugbugz

1998 EK9 CTR
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Apr 10, 2007
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I was browsing for some brake bleeding info and found this on mity-vac webpage. Very useful info on your radiator.

Q: Why is it important to remove all air from the cooling system?

A: If air is trapped inside the engine block or cylinder head(s), it will cause an overheating condition. This could result in very costly engine repair or possibly engine replacement. A radiator or fill tank can look full but it does not mean that the engine block or cylinder head(s) are full.

Q: How does the air get trapped inside the engine?

A: Many newer model vehicle designs have lower hood lines and are more aerodynamic, which means that the engine is positioned higher than the radiator. While this promotes a more attractive, sleeker look, it creates a problem within the radiator. Basic physics tells us that water, which is part of the engine coolant, seeks a natural level. The coolant cannot be drawn into the engine efficiently because air exists between the upper portion of the engine block and cylinder head(s).


Q: How do you remove the air that is trapped in the upper portion of the engine?

A: You vacuum it out using the AirEvac (P/N 04700) from Mityvac“. This is a tool that creates negative pressure within the cooling system (a vacuum). By creating this vacuum, it removes the trapped air and refills your cooling system while still holding your system in a vacuum. All fluid will be drawn from the coolant container into the system until it is full. (Ensure you have enough coolant mixture before performing this task.) Once the system is filled the vacuum will no longer exist because the coolant now occupies the void. No Air! No problem!

Q: Air never hurt my old vehicle. How can it hurt my new one?

A: Radiators in the older vehicles were positioned higher than the engine. It used to be easy to just fill the radiator and run the vehicle until the thermostat opened and then top it off, put the radiator cap on and drive away. With newer vehicles, most manufacturers specify to purge the air out of the cooling system. If air gets trapped in the engine block or cylinder head(s) and it is run for any period of time it will cause "hot spots". This will damage head gaskets, the cylinder walls and the entire cooling system. Overheating and expensive repairs will be the end results.
 
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:bow: great info, sticky! :bow:
 
Thanks for the info jugbugz, how do you know if this is happening?

My temp stays fairly constant on motorway driving but when I then slow down around town after a long drive the temp sky-rockets. The engine check light also occasionally flicks on and off at around 4600RPM in 5th gear.

The overheating also happens if I take it over about 125MPH on the motorway.

i think to get any real help you need to be more specific,
does your fan work?
where does your temp gauge sit on a normal run?
have you messed with/drained and re filled your coolant for any reason? if so what coolant do you have?
does it boil over? do the hoses go really hard?
loosing any coolant? etc....
could be something simple though like you could have a sticky thermostat restricting flow..? i would suggest you get it sorted asap overheating it all the time is going to cause serious damage.
 
Thanks for the info jugbugz, how do you know if this is happening?

My temp stays fairly constant on motorway driving but when I then slow down around town after a long drive the temp sky-rockets. The engine check light also occasionally flicks on and off at around 4600RPM in 5th gear.

The overheating also happens if I take it over about 125MPH on the motorway.


That sounds pretty bad. Check and answer these Qs first;

1. Does your radiator fan switch on when hot?(you can test this by leaving your car in idle for about 10-15mins to hear the fan switch on) If not, your switch is broken.

2. What colour is your coolant atm? It should be fluro green. If its lost its vibrant colour, it means its pretty much **** and needs a change.

3. Is your coolant full?

4. Whats the condition of your radiator? Maybe needs replacing or cleaning of the fins.

5. Check your oil level. Running low on oil also increase heat.

When you install new coolant fluids, be sure to drain all of the aircon coolant as well by turning the thermostat to hot. Once all fluids have drained, turn on the engine for about 5secs to let it pump out left overs and turn it off.

When you fill your coolant up, be sure to leave your car running idle for about 10mins with your thermostat at HOT and fan fullblast. Keep the radiator cap off, and keep topping up the coolant as you watch air bubbles come out and fluid sinking. When no more bubbles seem to arise, you can stop and just ensure your reservior is full as well. Throughout time, it should settle, so keep an eye on your reservior level.

This is just the standard way of changing your coolant. Other people might have better advice.
 
heater matrix is usual place for air locks, i usually find it helps to leave the pipe from the heater to the block off untill the matrix is full and coolant begins to come out of the pipe.:nice:

also if changing coolant be sure to use the correct type, if you mix the red/pink type antifreeze with the blueish stuff it can react and cause bad corrosion.
 
hey.. wanna ask// anyone here installed radiator cooling plate??

how's the effect??

i was kinda bored n i thought of DIY a cooling plate myself. :p

tis is not the final design, jst a layout so i can trace n cut

b4
dsc01329ij8.jpg


after
dsc01328vl7.jpg


gonna get the material from hardware shop, den cut it out :p
dsc01330dl1.jpg
 
Honestly, I dont really understand how the cooling plate would work very well on a OEM bumper and grill. Maybe if it was for certain designed bumpers and grill where dynamics had problems, otherwise I dont see how it would direct more air onto the radiator on a OEM front?

Is it because they were concerned of the air entering the grill? I mean the next thing the air touches is the radiator after the grill.

Also every bonnet has a Rubber Seal to seal it off the top tight. So why would there be air entering above the radiator ?
 
ehm.. from wat i understand of the web;
the cooling plate is suppose to minimise the gap n allowing less air to escape ; so more air can be redirected directly to the radiator?

i tink its like, u sitting right infront of a fan with nothing covering u, n u add 2 piece of card board on ur right n left while ur infront of a fan. more air is directed to u; i tink tats wat its meant for.

i change to a aftermarket radiator; the height drop compared to the OEM honda radiator and i dont have tat rubber mesh seal at the top :(



Honestly, I dont really understand how the cooling plate would work very well on a OEM bumper and grill. Maybe if it was for certain designed bumpers and grill where dynamics had problems, otherwise I dont see how it would direct more air onto the radiator on a OEM front?

Is it because they were concerned of the air entering the grill? I mean the next thing the air touches is the radiator after the grill.

Also every bonnet has a Rubber Seal to seal it off the top tight. So why would there be air entering above the radiator ?
 
ehm.. from wat i understand of the web;
the cooling plate is suppose to minimise the gap n allowing less air to escape ; so more air can be redirected directly to the radiator?

i tink its like, u sitting right infront of a fan with nothing covering u, n u add 2 piece of card board on ur right n left while ur infront of a fan. more air is directed to u; i tink tats wat its meant for.

i change to a aftermarket radiator; the height drop compared to the OEM honda radiator and i dont have tat rubber mesh seal at the top :(


Could you tell us if you felt any temperature drop after you instaled your cooling plate?
 
ehh.. IF to be precised.. i need a digital temp reader to be 100% correct.

but if i was to compared to last time; during halt; neutral the temp is @ normal temp. near mid.

but while u driving tat time; its slightly lower den b4 i install.

Could you tell us if you felt any temperature drop after you instaled your cooling plate?
 
I still dont buy it.

The grill sits very tightly on the bumper support and air is already directed straight to the radiator after the grill. You should just go a purchase a OEM bonnet seal and save money.. lol

I mean, it might work on other cars, but not all cars. Also it depends on your bumper and grill. OEM EK9 doesnt seem to have problems
 
hehe no worries blinx. i didnt spend a fortune on tis :p

i jst diy it with paper card board haha :D
 
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