Best shell for an EK K-swap? Difference between shells??


Tuff

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Nov 11, 2010
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155
Hi guys, im looking forward to doing a k-swap project very soon in the near future, already have some of the parts such as ITR subframe and steering rack, EKK2 K-swap mounts, gear linkages, selector box and soon will have an engine etc.

I have been looking for a cheapish tidy ek9 shell for a while now and have been struggling, didnt see the one Firas was selling in time so missed out on that cracking shell, others ive come across are just too expensive and are just bare shells, nothing else on them.

I understand EK9 is one of the best chassis out there, seam welded, additional strengthening and thicker rear beams or something etc making it a fantastic handling car.

Other chassis's/shells such as the ek4, ek3, ej9 etc, whats the differences between those shells? which one is the next one down from the ek9? or are the rest exactly same other than different engines, rear brake discs, i believe some are 4 stud others 5, but in terms of chassis strength/stiffness and handling, which one is the next one down from the ek9?

If i cant find an ek9 rolling shell, im unsure which one i should go for. Any opinions??

I am a patient guy, still going to hold out a bit longer for the right one to come along, but just need to have a better understanding of different shells. tried searching online but couldnt find much.

Most guys in america will use the cheapest shell they could find, but in terms of handling i really don't want to spend huge amounts having the worst shell possible seam welded, better suspension, bracing etc etc only to find out its still sh1t in handling around a track compared to a ek9 handling wise.....


Discuss guys:-

ANY help or opinions will be very welcome.

(if cant make my mind up, il just buy a tidy ek9 and run that standard instead of kswap, but not sure what il do with alot of the parts i have collected:nerv:lol)
 


jfatboy

You Wont Like Me
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Nov 7, 2010
Messages
683
Hi guys, im looking forward to doing a k-swap project very soon in the near future, already have some of the parts such as ITR subframe and steering rack, EKK2 K-swap mounts, gear linkages, selector box and soon will have an engine etc.

I have been looking for a cheapish tidy ek9 shell for a while now and have been struggling, didnt see the one Firas was selling in time so missed out on that cracking shell, others ive come across are just too expensive and are just bare shells, nothing else on them.

I understand EK9 is one of the best chassis out there, seam welded, additional strengthening and thicker rear beams or something etc making it a fantastic handling car.

Other chassis's/shells such as the ek4, ek3, ej9 etc, whats the differences between those shells? which one is the next one down from the ek9? or are the rest exactly same other than different engines, rear brake discs, i believe some are 4 stud others 5, but in terms of chassis strength/stiffness and handling, which one is the next one down from the ek9?

If i cant find an ek9 rolling shell, im unsure which one i should go for. Any opinions??

I am a patient guy, still going to hold out a bit longer for the right one to come along, but just need to have a better understanding of different shells. tried searching online but couldnt find much.

Most guys in america will use the cheapest shell they could find, but in terms of handling i really don't want to spend huge amounts having the worst shell possible seam welded, better suspension, bracing etc etc only to find out its still sh1t in handling around a track compared to a ek9 handling wise.....


Discuss guys:-

ANY help or opinions will be very welcome.

(if cant make my mind up, il just buy a tidy ek9 and run that standard instead of kswap, but not sure what il do with alot of the parts i have collected:nerv:lol)
this is a wind up, wheres the hidden camera?????
 


Tuff

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Nov 11, 2010
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155
Why? it is a long winded post i know lol. Coming from a 400bhp ep3, given that up for a k-swap.

I THINK the ej9 and ek3 are the same other than engines, but read a few different things regarding those. Where does the ek4 come in? what does that have which the ek3 and ej9 doesnt have other than rear brake discs and different suspension. Actual chassis/shell wise what are the differences?
 

Last edited:

kellsled

Phil
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Dec 12, 2008
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this is a wind up, wheres the hidden camera?????
dont see how thats helpn the guy mate.

to the op the ek9 is gd but if your for building it id buy a vti ek4 and just a bit on the chassis altho they come with front and rear arb's etc as standard would just need a bigger brake set-up up front.As for the ek9 seam welding its only a bit around the boot that is welded not the whole car like people think easily done.Most guys just buy the vti and seam weld alot more of it themselves.
The other option would be to buy a dc2 integra and sell on the b18c engine and your set for you new engine and all
 


Tuff

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Nov 11, 2010
Messages
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Cheers for that Tama666 and Kellsled, very helpful. The ek9 with the stronger rear subframe aswell which is slightly thicker.

So the k9 doesn't have as much seam welding than i thought it did? nice bit info that!

I have seen the guide on here on how to convert your ek4 or ej9 into a ek9 type thread, but with all the bracing added on, that is adding weight to the car, but a standard ek9 is already lighter than the ek4, once added the extra weight onto the ek4 with bracing, that will make it even more heavier.

The car will not be a full on track car, will be keeping it for road use aswell, and the odd track day and hill climbs etc. This will be a toy, but will be used on the road now and again aswell to keep it going. Oh and i don't think i fancy a full cage, would like to have something like the spoon civic EK9 k20'd, i don't that has a roll cage and handles like a dream round the Touge, could be to do with the trick suspension set-up. But if Spoon didn't feel like they needed a cage, think il give it a miss too lol.

DC2 is a good shout. ALso looking more into EK4's now :thumbsup:
 

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goba

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Sep 21, 2007
Messages
291
Best to find a rust free base model with no sunroof.

The rear subframe is reinforced on EK9 but the ASR or F7 plates are cheap enough or there's the comptech kit, you'll want to uprate the OE EK9 ARB I would have thought anyway.

The EK9 isn't properly seem welded.

So what if the EK9 is 5 stud? This makes absolutely no difference.
 

Last edited:

Tuff

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Nov 11, 2010
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Best to find a rust free base model with no sunroof.

The rear subframe is reinforced on EK9 but the ASR plate is cheap enough or there's the comptech kit, you'll want to uprate the OE EK9 ARB I would have thought anyway.

The EK9 isn't properly seem welded.

So what if the EK9 is 5 stud? This makes absolutely no difference.
so would you go for a ek4, ek3 or ej9?

I wasn't really Aware of the ASR plate or the comptech kit, just had a look at the ASR plate, and i think if i had one at hand to go off, I could probably knock one out at work on the CNC's, which could help things greatly.
 


Topher-EK9

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:secret: I might get banned for this but have you considered the Eg chassis? Or Ef chasss. :nerv:

If the ek/ej is the shape you are after then go for the ej9 some of these can be picked up in good condition for around the £1000 mark.. throw the money you'll save by not going for an Ek9 at the ej's chassis and you'll easily have a setup that will be equal, more than likely better, than the Ek9 chassis. like mentioned above there are methods and parts that upgrade any ek chassis to a monster. Standard editions of both is no comparrison but if its a ground up build there really is no need to go for the Ek9 chassis.... Imo :nice:
 


kellsled

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u mentioned weight,an ek4 isnt as light as a ek9 but doesnt mean it cant be as light if not lighter. The ek4 has the sunroof,sound deadening etc extra if it was completly stripped there a light car,i stripped my jordan and made a massive difference to the weight
 


Tuff

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Nov 11, 2010
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Cheers for the info guys, keep it coming!! Your personal opinions are very welcome too.

Im starting to sway towards the cheaper option now, like a ej9 or the like.
 


689R

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if your a baller to afford a kswap you should start with the best possible model imo

would you rather tell cunts you have a k20 civic type r or k20 ej9?
 



goba

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Sep 21, 2007
Messages
291
if your a baller to afford a kswap you should start with the best possible model imo

would you rather tell cunts you have a k20 civic type r or k20 ej9?
I'm not sure I'd care much either way, you're doing it for yourself at the end of the day.

How about a yellow dc2? That's already been a k-swap?
If you wanted to save money you should seriously consider this. Having seen the car in person I would have thought it was one of the cleanest DC2's in the country.
 


haitch

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If you hadnt driven an EK4 and an EK9 in anger to compare, take the cheaper shell. I believe Mr Whiteman spent a fortune on handling mods for his EK4 and said it didnt handle or feel like the 9. A full cage can still be minimal for easy use, if I could do it all over again the cage would be one of the first things I would do, its easier at the start and should you want to do more with the car its ready, especially if you are starting with a shell.
 


Tuff

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Nov 11, 2010
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@tegiwa, tbh wouldnt mind buying a ready one, but really fancy doing a full project myself. Main purpose of the project is to keep me busy and get my hands dirty :).

Hmmm, wouldnt really mind if its an ek4,ej9 or ek9 shell tbh, as long as it handles good. Looking at that spoon ek9 going round the track is pretty amazing.

Still doing my research and reading around guys. Some VERY VERY good info guys, keep it coming.
 




Si vti

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Oct 18, 2009
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if your a baller to afford a kswap you should start with the best possible model imo

would you rather tell cunts you have a k20 civic type r or k20 ej9?
I challenge you to a duel Sir. :win:
 


Tuff

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Nov 11, 2010
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If any of you does have something decent available, dont mind dropping me a pm with what you have. I will be selling my ep3 soon, so if your looking to move onto an ep3 and after some sort of a deal, drop me a pm guys.

Ive dropped tegiwa a pm aswell, thought it was a completed kswap car thats why lol, didnt realise it was shell on its own.

HIATCH i know you really do know your stuff regarding k-swaps, and your race car ek's etc. With your experience, which would be the best to go for, and best value for money too?
 


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