B18'd EK9 - EK9 transmission vs DC2 transmission


Gee

Gee

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Dec 7, 2008
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Sorry, I don't know the gearbox codes!

I have read into this a little already and people have mentioned with EK9 box with a different FD, but I want to keep this simple.

When dropping a B18C into an EK9 for street application would you use:

B18C + EK9 stock box

or

B18C + DC2 stock box

?

The advangage for me using my orignal box is that it lowers my over all conversion cost, however I hear the DC2 box has a better LSD?

Thoughts?
 
Im pretty sure LSD is the same??

At the end of the day the differences are minimal. With 98 spec onwards DC2 box you get the 4.7 final drive and has the 1st, 2nd and 3rd slightly shorter then 4th and 5th are pretty much the same as EK9 box... So you get a drop in revs from 3rd to 4th....

I can tell you the EK9 box, gears suddenly become shorter when B18CR installed lol.... Get through the gears quick........

ive heard the best combo is a EK9 box with the 4.7 final drive.....
 
I don't want to be opening the box and messing about Dan.

Had too much hassle with modifying cars in the past, just want to keep this simple.

So, as there is nothing in it, might as well save some dosh and keep the same box.
 
Drop the B18C in mate, keep the stock EK9 S4C for a while, when money is in the bank go MFACTORY :nice:
 
kaks_EK9Rx said:
Drop the B18C in mate, keep the stock EK9 S4C for a while, when money is in the bank go MFACTORY :nice:
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Great advice... :p

Keep the EK9 box.

They are similar to the 96spec boxes which imo is superior to the N3E 98spec box which has a 4.785 final but a taller 4-5 that makes the car fall flat on its face.
 
RagingAngel said:
Great advice... :p

Keep the EK9 box.

They are similar to the 96spec boxes which imo is superior to the N3E 98spec box which has a 4.785 final but a taller 4-5 that makes the car fall flat on its face.
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That's my plan ;)
 
keep the EK9 box, it's EXACTLY the same ratios as a 96 spec integra anyways :)
 
RagingAngel said:
Great advice... :p

Keep the EK9 box.

They are similar to the 96spec boxes which imo is superior to the N3E 98spec box which has a 4.785 final but a taller 4-5 that makes the car fall flat on its face.
Click to expand...

But according to you own MFactory Gear Calculator, the 4th and 5th gear on the 98-01 ITR are just a tad shorter than the 96-98 spec ITR because of the final drive?
 
_JT said:
But according to you own MFactory Gear Calculator, the 4th and 5th gear on the 98-01 ITR are just a tad shorter than the 96-98 spec ITR because of the final drive?
Click to expand...

They end up just about identical Both 96 spec and 98spec ITR will be at the same rpm in 5th gear when cruising on the motorway. Since he already has a B16b box it would be ludicrous to buy a 98 spec box, I still have not drive in a car with a 98spec box but i hear for road racing the b16b/96spec boxes are much better as the the gears are all matched up much nicer opposed to the 98 box having a gap between 3rd and 4th.
 
Thanks guys!

Will be keeping my box!

Got money to do the swap NOW..but will wait until I get my work bonus and use that money instead.

Watch this space! :D
 
ive got the 98 spec s80 with final drive and it is super short,

id say top speed is 135/140mph maybe but by god do you fly through the gears to get to it

also you have to consider the fact that it will drink the juice quicker,

currently when i cruise at 100kph im doing 4000revs which does get a bit annoying to be honest

but its better around towns as i can pull of from zero in third without going under 500 revs and getting the horrible juddering,i usually just cruise about town in 5 all night long at around 40 kph so it has its upsides
 
See if you just keep your ek9 box are you not best to have your b16b stroked rather than have the engine swapped??

Least that way you'd know the history of the engine and how healthy it is etc rather than taking the risk with a replacement b18 that could be past its best/fcuked.
 
Engine is from somebody on here who has done swaps for members already, so hopefully he has a good rep. Will do some more digging :p

Stroking the engine would cost more than just dropping in a B18C.

I know what you mean though..it is a risk.
 
Gee said:
Engine is from somebody on here who has done swaps for members already, so hopefully he has a good rep. Will do some more digging :p

Stroking the engine would cost more than just dropping in a B18C.

I know what you mean though..it is a risk.
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I guess its all good if you know the guy well; i was thinking bout a b18 for summer time but rekon i'm gonna go down the stroking route unless its silly expensive.

You could use the ek9 pct pistons aswell so you'd have a high compression build i THINK.....

but thats probably best kept for another thread.

:nice:
 
blinx9900 said:
They end up just about identical Both 96 spec and 98spec ITR will be at the same rpm in 5th gear when cruising on the motorway. Since he already has a B16b box it would be ludicrous to buy a 98 spec box, I still have not drive in a car with a 98spec box but i hear for road racing the b16b/96spec boxes are much better as the the gears are all matched up much nicer opposed to the 98 box having a gap between 3rd and 4th.
Click to expand...
Alright, I can understand that arguement. I was thinking along the lines of getting shorter gears but not for thousands of dollars :p Then the 98 spec box is nice, only too bad the 4th gear is still as long as th 96 spec (taking FD into account), but a gap between 4th and 5th gear would be completely acceptable for me as I seldom use 5th gear for hard acceleration :D
 
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