B16A1 raising compression


The engine has done 165k so I think I will drive it and do a few track days first and then look for more power, if the engine needs a rebuild I think I will look for a B18C4 by the sounds of it :) or sell the itb's and go the forced induction route, no budget as such, it's a 3rd car so can take as long as I like.
 
_JT said:
So you have ITB's and a mani? Well, yes I would start with a B18. You can either choose the B18C, which I'm assuming is out of your budget range (1800 or more with box). Or a B18c4, which is waaaay cheaper, around 600-700 quid with gearbox in the UK. Only need a shorter gearbox if you want to get max results.

Pro 1's are, AFAIK, not the mildest cams but also not the wildest and to get 200bhp out of a B16 is not economical and would need VERY wild cams.
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Pro 1's are good for over 200bhp on a b16a with high comp pistons.

Here's a Eg6 rally car belonging to my friend I mapped some time ago. I over laid power graph from when his engine was stock with just type r cams compared to the now built engine.
ab4cd563.jpg

To give you a idea of just how much power this little 1.6 is packing! A b18c with stock internals and mapped Ecu will see around 190-205bhp with 130-145ish torque depending on mods and health of engine on this Dyno. Pretty impressive for a 1.6 don't you think and there is no itb's on this engine, there not needed.
 
Pretty impressive yes, with only pistons and cams?? No other intake mani, tb etc? How much did it cost him to get the engine to where it is?

But still, topicstarter had said he is not willing to change pistons etc so then (with stock internals) you would not reach 200hp with these cams :)
 
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_JT said:
Pretty impressive yes, with only pistons and cams?? No other intake mani, tb etc? But still, topicstarter had said he is not willing to change pistons etc so then (with stock internals) you would not reach 200hp with these cams :)
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Yes just a set of 81.5mm Wiseco pistons and Pro 1 cams with supporting head package(springs+retainers) and cams correctly dialled in.
ITR intake manifold and throttle body. Good exhaust and intake etc.

I was merely pointing out that Pro1's are perfect choice cams to pick when trying to get a b16a over 200bhp but yes you will not reach this power level with stock pistons. For his budget he would probably be best off getting a 1.8
 
_JT said:
What is your budget if I may ask?
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Best question asked. After you establish a budget, then settle on some goals you'd be happy with and we can then tell you if what you're trying to do is feasible.
 
Blimey that was more than I was expecting, maybe I should consider a piston change! Hopefully with itb's I might see a little more torque too... hmm
 
I'm building "poor mans B16B". EK9 pistons, ITR cams, ITR intake manifold. Still looking for exhaust manifold. I want to achieve 190hp from that engine.
Btw we have B16A2 in Latvia with 210bhp.
22102011017.mp4 - YouTube
 
Vtec6000 said:
Yes just a set of 81.5mm Wiseco pistons and Pro 1 cams with supporting head package(springs+retainers) and cams correctly dialled in.
ITR intake manifold and throttle body. Good exhaust and intake etc.

I was merely pointing out that Pro1's are perfect choice cams to pick when trying to get a b16a over 200bhp but yes you will not reach this power level with stock pistons. For his budget he would probably be best off getting a 1.8
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Yes, well it is quite a mdeium-heavily modified B16A with so much changed and I know it's possible. But tbh I thought Pro 1's were relatively soft cams. Guess I was wrong.
RagingAngel said:
Best question asked. After you establish a budget, then settle on some goals you'd be happy with and we can then tell you if what you're trying to do is feasible.
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Yes well, that's the first thing you should do when making plans :D
t3gav said:
Blimey that was more than I was expecting, maybe I should consider a piston change! Hopefully with itb's I might see a little more torque too... hmm
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What are you after?
1. As much power as possible from a 1.6
2. As much power as possible with a given budget
 
Another newb question but I see the term B20 quite a lot, do you mean making a B18 2 litre by increasing the bore/stroke or actually using a B20 engine and changing the head etc? The reason I ask is that the standard figures for the B20 all seem to be lower than the 1.6.
 
b20 means you take the bottom end of a b20b/z and put a B16a/b/B18c head on it... thus making a 2.0; vtec motor, but engine code b20b/z still.
 
Thanks for the quick reply, I thought as much, are the pistons etc any good in the standard B20 bottom end, also what is the compression with a standard B18 head on a B20 bottom end?
 
dunno about a standard nonvtec b18 head on a b20.. dont see why you want to do that? just keep the stock b20 head then. try searching, there is LOTS of info in this subject man.
 
Extracting 200hp from a 1.6 is easier with the B16B as the base engine compared to the b16a in terms of budget.

If your hp numbers really concern you, its best to use a hub dyno so none of that rim/tire size will affect it. Its also even better if you have a friend with a stock FN2R(200bhp) to put on the dyno to get 'REAL' figures. When my EK9 was stock, it was 20whp away from the FN2R. On same dyno, same day. That reminds me... I should be going back to that dyno to see how much has changed :)
 
The difference between a 200hp 1.6 and 1.8 is this;

-1.8 more power throughout all rpms, most noticeable from 2000-7500rpms
-1.6 is very peaky, it makes most of its power up top above 7000rpms (will only benefit if you can get it to make peak power very high therefore increasing the rev limit to get a wide top end power band).

Very difficult to build a 1.6 that would make you forget about the 1.8 but it can be done with research and patience ofcourse $$$. For the same money, the B18c4 will inevitably make your car go faster with the same gearbox and mods. So you need to ask yourself, what are your goals? If its just to go faster, go with a bigger capacity engine. If its for bragging rights, stick with the 1.6 but its going to be expensive...

My EK9 1.6 pulls dead even with my friends jdm DC5R(mugen parts) in 1st and 2nd gear. But since he sucks at changing gears and my peak power is at 9200-9400rpm, I pulled away from him from 3rd gear :D
 
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Kozy said:
Get a B18C4 bottom end, fit the pistons out of your B16 in it with some new rings and bolt up your B16 head, drop a set of B16B/B18C cams in and you have the 'poor mans Type R' conversion. Should see you a nice 180bhp and 130lbft, maybe a smidge more, but could cost less than a set of brand new Spunkpoo cams.
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Why use the B16A pistons is this to keep the compression up? Is the only difference between the blocks the B18 is 15mm taller so essentially this will make the rocker cover closer to the bonnet and the exhaust manifold closer to the sump?
 
The B18C4 ones are low compression but B16A pistons are very similar to B18C ones, it's cheaper than buying new pistons if you already have a useable set laying around.

IIRC the B16a/B18C blocks also have different diameter crank journals as well as the deck height issue.
 
Here's an old engine bay shot, a new rocker cover turned up today as I don't like the smooth look, I've tidied the engine bay a bit and the ecu/wideband is now fitted in the glovebox :)

metro.jpg
 
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One of the exterior on the alloys, I have wide steels for the road.
 

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