JohnTurbo's EJ9 B18C4 Shed


JohnTurbo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
942
Hi Folks, its been a loong while; like 5 years.

When last I was here I had an EK4 race car that had many of the useful bits (and look) of an EK9. It was minty and sorted and lovely and the world was good.

EK4 RACER

Since then I've been off on other tangents, including a K20 powered S1 Exige - this made me realise the K20 is a soulless machine even in one of the finest chassis the world has ever created.

Recently my garage has looked like this:-

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Thats a GKD Legend (BMW 328i based) and a 1982 911 SC.

But I've been bored with the lockdown and found myself missing the old EK.

Firstly I bought this:-

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- A B16A1 to clean up and maybe then to find a chassis for. Its been nice to work on a B series again. But seemingly I found myself looking hard for a whole car, and while I was looking at Integras and EEs and EGs - the EK is the closest to my heart. I reallised a nice EK4 is out of my budget - and EK9s....well fook. I bet you guys bought yours a while ago right? Nice move!

So even EJ9s are tough to find now. The breakers are killing all the old Hondas like some kind of evil Pied Piper!

Eventually I found this absolute sh*theap on Gumtree of all places:-

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The seller was a nice guy and seemed to be starting to do some useful bits (like new pads, buying a rear interior) but decided to shift it on after I assume a pretty short tenure.

Its got the full chav spec:-
* B18C4 conversion with an idle issue, randomly polymounted - Why would anybody with less than 1000bhp use poly engine mounts? It has an idle that's too high but isn't smokey!
* The usual "long" gearbox, the s9B - which is nowhere near as long as you'd think. Oh but its got nooooo synchro left on 4th gear.
* An exhaust like the end of the known world, that hits the chassis in lots of places, and no hangers?!
* Half the interior missing because chav spec as mentioned
* The full set of pink **** at the rear. Yes not 1 but 2 braces and the LCAs to boot. - OK the ASR brace is useful.
* A deep dish OMP wheel where all the suede is worn totally smooth.
* A nicotine stink
* A ride height of about 25mm on Gaz coilovers, set up by someone who thinks the damping knob is something you swing on like a volume knob rather than "set" - therefore:
* A ride like a trotting horse - even on the smoothest of newly laid asphalt.
* Rear camber arms where it appears insulation tape is the bushing! (really!)
* Stupid aluminum things and elastic bands pretending to hold the bumpers on.
* Scuffs, the remains of a big audio install, bad body repairs, a grill badly rattle canned matt black.
* Purple **** all over the engine and a hard pipe "induction kit" that's rubbing the chassis. [Edit an AEM CAI no less!]
* FOUR, yes FOUR new keeper supplements from the last year or so!
* Filthy inside

But!!!
* It has EK4 rear disk conversion, and 262mm front disks. Great mod!
* The front camber arms aren't stuffed. [Edit - they were stuffed]
* Most bushings are ok, and the rack has been converted to manual quite well by the feel of it [edit, not quite well]
* Its NOT THAT rusty. Just one area; to follow.
* The b18C4 is a peach, is mapped and supposedly running 198bhp (seems incredibly unlikely) and has a p28 chipped ECU; useful
* Decent wheels with good AD08 tyres
* The necessary (for C4) Skunk2 manifold, and a decent 421 - albeit smashed into speedbumps.
* A decent all-ally radiator - though no bracket and no expansion tank?!

So first jobs were:-

* Raise ride height:-

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I went up from 5 threads to 13. This meant the spring actually sat in the cups when extended! Probably a 3" lift at the rear.

Front wasn't SOOO low but the springs need replacing to get it higher so a job for later. Generally adjusted damping which was set for probably 30KG/mm springs rather than the circa 3kg ones fitted. The ride improved immeasurably!!!

* Stop the throttle plate sticking:
Some moron had backed off the stop screw and the butterfly was WEDGING in the bore. This made the throttle pedal awful.

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* Steering wheel replaced (and after the pic one hell of a vacuuming)
This is a cheap spare off my kit car but much nicer and more sanitary.

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* Induction kit sawed down and filter relocated to engine bay. Daft bumper scoop thing removed.

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* Rust repair quoted.
Just a patch near the front mounting for the forward rear suspension link on the passenger side. £100 - booked in for next wednesday. It will then need a lot of cleaning up, painting etc under there to protect it.

* Rear side trims refitted. Stickers removed. Engine mount drilled to try and reduce the ridiculous shaking.

Parts ordered:-

* New Grille
* New Bumper (front)
* Steering Rack gator
* Rocker cover gaskets
* Stock engine mount (rear) and an EG mount (cam side) - because 3 post mount.
* DC2 back-box. Aiming to shorten pipes and get it to be much more quiet.
* Some wheel nuts as one is missing and another doesn't match
* Rear Left handbrake cable - broken.
* Replacement adjustable rear camber arms. - Will also reduce the camber from "scene" to "track".
* Shifter bushings (loose stick)
* Paint
* Sump Baffle

Next plans:-
* Find whats loose in the drivers door
* Fix the high idle - perhaps an air leak? Its a bit odd as you can drag it down to 1000rpm with the clutch and it will then stay there.
* Paint grille and bumper
* Fit the above stuff.
* Sort new front springs - need to measure.
* Welding next Wednesday

Maybes:-
* Rear wheel bearing might be going
* Decide on carbon/brass/used synchros because I'm getting a touch low on funds.
* Pick some ARBS - again funds dependent.
 
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Fair play for buying an EK when you have an old 911 and the other car! Looks like most of the EK's around my way but fair play to clean it up :beer:
 
Had a busy couple of days.

Got a new cheap bumper - all of £33 delivered and a £15 grille to go with it.

Got some rattle cans mixed and painted them. Mid way through:-

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And on the car:-
The fit wasn't wonderful but I'm not surprised at those prices.

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Next was fitting a DC2 backbox. I found evidence of people fitting these and some who tried and failed so I was going to be interesting. Actually with the "Beaks Bar" removed it bolted up fine. - Well after I rebuilt the badly cracked flange with the welder. (Not shown).
Thanks for that surprise ebay seller person!

As you can see - all that was needed was to extend the hangers. I used stainess threaded bar and put in a brace piece too. It doesn't look pretty but its hidden anyway and its strong!

By the way its a myth that the DC2 backbox is heavy - its quite light, but it is massive!

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Its a good fit, but the tail pipe could do with trimming back a bit.

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Another view for info:-

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Next was to fix this botched camber arm:-

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A nice new pair fitted, and also wound off some camber because I couldn't give a fook about scene points.

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Lastly fitted the reg plate. Need to order some new ones that aren't randomly illegal font size!

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Other jobs not pictured:-

* Removed and refitted drivers door card which was loose and rattling.
* Replaced the rear and cambelt-side engine mounts with non-aftermarket ones. The car no longer shakes and rattles!
* Found the battery tray was loose and tightened it up.

Took it for a run - its so much more pleasant!

Next jobs:-

* Look at high idle
* Remove a bit of metal that someone welded on to support the exhaust but touches and vibrates.
* Replace rear handbrake cable
* Fix glovebox
* Remove "Password JDM" chavvy bumper fixings, fill and touch up

Later:
* Paint the underside.
* Replace 4th gear synchro
 
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Had the afternoon off to try and fix the high idle. - Its funny because if you drag the engine speed down with the clutch it will idle at 1100 rpm, but otherwise it wants to be at 2000rpm.

So far:-
* Checked the TPS calibration - ok.
* Checked the PCV valve and replaced the hose as it was sucking flat
* Resealed various sensors
* Sprayed round with carb cleaner - no effects on idle speed.
* Tried changing the ignition timing - doesn't help.

Next - try a different lanbda sensor.

I've a feeling it could be related to the ecu or map on the chipped p28. Have bought a Moats Burn2 to play with this.

Meanwhile I removed the chavvy puple crap form the cam cover and fitted anew set of seals and gaskets. The inside of the head looks clean and unworn:-


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The spark plug bores were half filled with oil and leaks in various places, so this is at least some useful progress.

Ordered also:-

* 450lb/in front springs to lift the front of the car to a good height
* Radiator bracket - there isn't one!!
* Replacement steering rack boot - split at the end
* Bumper clips
* A massive spray can of bilt hamber Dynax UB to rustproof the underside ("Proper stuff" not hide-all black gunk)
* New legal numberplates!
 
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Done a few more sessions on the car.

My main bugbear was the high idle:-
* I fitted a different lambda sensor and there was no difference.
* I remembered how aftermarket timing gears are god-awful on the machined accuracy of the keyway vs the engraved or printed +/- degrees marks. They also lack the necessary marks to align to the edge of the valve cover. As such I removed the aly adjustable gears and replaced with stock and retimed the engine.
* Since the alternator was missing one of the 1 fixings (the long bolt!) I replaced that.
* Pretty sure the engine was almost a tooth out on the exhaust cam. In any case it runs better now but still idled too high.
* Tried burning some basemaps with the Burn2 - they were all worse, and no playing with the IACV duty helped.
* Finally I swapped on a different throttle body and gasket and the engine started idling properly. - The stupid **** "thermal" gasket was leaking from the TB main venturi to the IACV. This reminded me that in the past I'd always CHECK THE NON HONDA PARTS FOR ISSUES FIRST. Its always poorly fitted, poorly made, ill considered aftermarket bits that fail. Why even fit a thermal insulating gasket when the hot water is still plumbed into the TB?

I'm enjoying fixing this stuff that the previous owners have fooked up but it also beggars belief!

At this point I had a patch of welding - on the chassis jigging point near where the toe arm attaches to the chassis. Not actually a necessary part of the bodywork but I didn't fancy explaining this to an MOT tester. The welder covered it in black **** and made me wish I'd just done it myself. (I was afraid I'd set the car on fire as my welding tends to set stuff on fire).


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Next was to jack up the front of the car to a ride height where it might have a chance of cornering and passing basic bumps int he road without destroying further the exhaust manifold.

Gaz kindly told me the stock springs for GHA are 450lb - but I found 275lb fitted.

I got some springs the right spec and fitted these:-

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Naturally I also wound off some chav camber. - Except there was naturally bodged bolts stuffed into the camber arms at angles, one of which sheared on removal. Had to drill and re-tap to sort this. (Managed to get it back to 4 bolts

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Fitted a legal front plate. The rear will need work as the plate surround is shattered. Actually the photo below is fitting the new handbrake cable. You know its quite satisfying to work on such a well designed car- handbrake cables can be a PITA but this was quite straight forward.

Also removed the offending bit of welded on metal holding up the exhaust. - Removing it though shows a proper hanger or two is needed.
AND! Replaced the shifter bushing under the stick with a poly one which helps tighten the shifting action up a bit.

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Then on Sunday I put it in the garage and up on axle stands to:-
* Investigate a squeal from the sump - expected to be a partly blocked oil pickup
* Weld in baffles
* Weld up a crack in the manifold
* Weld on another exhaust hanger

First the manifold. It only had a tiny crack but I welded it up to death. I did grind back and paint but no photos of this.
Its about 2-3 inches further from the ground now so shouldn't be hitting stuff anymore.

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The baffle:-

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No photos of the hanger. It wasn't pretty as I forgot to turn the gas on on the MIG. Strong though(!) and stops the clunking.

Oil was very clean and free of metallic particles - suggests the engine is generally in strong condition! I think the donor MB6 was probably loved better than this EK has been!

Replaced a few bumper clips too.

Next on the list:-
* Cleaning up, treating and painting areas of surface rust. - Jacking points at front, and various areas in the rear quarters. Its mostly pretty solid, but another year and it would have been much bigger a job.
* Squeal wasn't the oil pickup so will need more digging. Only does it when hot, stops when you rev. Could be the input bearing to the gearbox.
* 3rd and 4th carbon lined synchros arrived for the gearbox - will fit when I investigate the above. Need to repatriate my engine crane!

Got the dehumidifier in the gargae to aid the rustproofing!
 
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Clean-up front jacking points, rust killer, zinc primer, Silver paint, then Bilt Hamber brown wax coating (not shown):-

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Found rust behind underseal in Drivers arch. Was also a patch coming round onto the bodywork.
Patched with weld-through primer'd sheet metal, seam sealed, undersealed.

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And a patch on the outer arch - fitst the rist was cut out, then a patch made and welded in, and smoothed. Another patch was made to rebuild the arch lip.

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Losts of surface rust, but the jig point (bottom central) was rotten and needed to be rebuilt....

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ACtC-3cZgIZ40NoVyxz1Qy668aqgfnjjc8BHGrIYlKKqIxjRikawgcprMfI31zV74KXoIhroEgMDjTs6vQ_LVGFPmfWc47YDOar45lvsJPkhnfzJgQpRU6eK9wVT6w6RmLrSNLW0JUPztkQE5Fy8FN0uTF0K4A=w1214-h910-no


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Onward to pulling the engine and gearbox:-

ACtC-3c1rYUdh_zIvGe8g5ji-SQ1V0PDXmEgEbg7t1s9qW33K9blaDXs7x-n909wA7ruAd8dybjx9j4SLwUTb0ecoUNXfTginYNPrDu9mCqgUD_u1AsNwabjWSGGQ5iCEqASKoLVIssY7wZbyalgj8kmJgdN2g=w1214-h910-no


Driveshafts out...

ACtC-3fUcygBWKRHRY6Njb4fJIUfvGV1_U-yYun1EtOtZdq6eHFTHLTxh8vNjhegNIBSyoqc93YrUMfdWFHxMLiNSOHtJy7kHK5IV6B1v1ld5quO_H6HuGAIDxIXS1f2nagckhdSLvQYRxud8wIabcYjU9c5Tg=w1214-h910-no


Engine and box out...

ACtC-3cHok9qIZ3hPNyR_NfGBU5jcvMBuyLy2ppRx0wMq2w3X3oPzAmOoliEUil1TtvkWZV1W_VqPxg77M7Yys5HPJ2ybDkTPIIVZRczsOw0C7u-QEaSIo7-sbQphzSQaGUaQfGRzWL3-nWuzVnfS0RtdXxgfA=w1214-h910-no


Not a fan of the coolant colour!

ACtC-3eo6FWgQFb6RlT4jApWdyajYB7DSi-XWpkZwv5vsAxXU9gMeBDwrnsWqnLEA7me9m-3kW3fh1CpO0STdBswYrXQa_Qo5Ta4SnQRTl8GqFav9AuQ5SYlvoW7fBuKoU1AfJzOnioldwYXo3k6BUT2UWtXEg=w683-h910-no


Gearbox separated...

ACtC-3d4g9SMr7CWfFsSV2aQWBzzJK3yfyLfCIw-8augLTu1NLbFd-t1OOndpe6FiAqZ8H1-b3zlYulYGK1mFqsVGV8-vXAYpyFmD_NnFST1IYnFJ32W1LhUx8Svq0K_bXQTUw1-0XquAXklODnAFDV9SsMHIg=w1214-h910-no


Exhaust ports are not to sooty - good sign...

ACtC-3cVM6bJ3HnNplHjaGu6_4iYjKGRCGD5-rV8ajriz2v6vwWgSaQJphMd6TjvA3Oy9woH7YbkPufgub1tsnc84DTbYMTIkzSxPIV5kqViqBIkxmBMTfW2QGau4CSPZhJgzWvFS3baimt3SdnEd5rM63ujHw=w1214-h910-no


Wanted to check out the bearings - both con rod and main bearings look fine.

ACtC-3dIiPMD2u0EOwggt7UjeN0Yki0kQG1Cy7Ry2ywqdw1a6sdMBPfqFyCZhTxIH9cJ8hrdZfg_fqOXCqKaPrwKoZAl3syI04NkFFZNZ_YAh8sAOnCgAI0xGCtNSB7vUAL7Bhj0VicfZhcVWM4NbBat1Y3SmQ=w683-h910-no


Just a single light score here:-

ACtC-3eWT3RdDqa20hBp89_C-1nXaZGPvxRZ-rPKOpFOUQC495SNx23Gmcj2BNUjR7M7cX9nr2ueIFN7q-D-KPmcqSnjCzAyvjnUn6XQhF57yVL8uPPVBkFTYmmjAzDaM2psNNdjUOGuvxgL0oQaOrPIpmfjdw=w683-h910-no


Gearbox being split for synchro fix:-

ACtC-3fhoCXrxCSmMSAfD3TAuH4iogYTz6chlbuFVf4XMTcme7tnGGEqDvlz2b26onfYznlKNpnbFBeywyG2KmLrmagt69RjbyfIDoJnAIrA9J7ihGlA3496V42XJpnWjddkmdEHVwWliIhTMo8D5-JErBTHXw=w683-h910-no


ACtC-3d9IWE-8uy90oyA8CIYmawj6hPbgraUO9Q1Y-s8WbX1Ji6ZUxZn8GorWzIYDkH3JwRaoGQVMseLp0ZDs7zceUekkxISJI22zuuymOyZqCIj0yuI-A0JvAggcLSY07UhVfsbPqm80MbzlQecgCLrq02Q9g=w683-h910-no


A bit of metal on the magnet, nothing so bad. Oil was cleanish but obviously the wrong stuff - farrr too thick to be MTF.

ACtC-3f4sSsbIb2qmKwWJjPzsWDkWbCRkD6xcKkaeRLG_mvFUvVuKqS0iXeZ89xKOMkzzVKl3V1JABb-TMvCtjVvEzmkcI1lLNxYhC2B81rLm9L-JRahoa8kC-50O3amyPidajdW2i0cpBA11OG8fkd0h8rcQw=w1214-h910-no


Stock baulk ring vs Synchrotech carbon lined.
4th gear ring changed - clearances checked on the others; all good.

ACtC-3fmq8zWIla3yc71vi1-7goLgl-sdCWz8-ZGtl0UK7SHXnEkkMDsmc0hQDGFBNpT9I482QAuuIgv9ggTF86OqPPy1_Z-5H8MZ2cPxFfR-Y9F5sXjw4q9rlgOjZ09xoQTUuFpsnjAis7qwH4hBt5OBCCjRw=w683-h910-no


Resealed with red RTF.

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New bits:-
* Silver hammerite for engine bay
* Millers CFS Nanodrive 10W40 oil (in post)
* Honda MTF 3 (in post)
* Big end bearings (probably not needed)
* Flywheel pilot bearing - its a bit rough!
 
Last edited:
Just wanted to look at my costs so far. Quite scary what it can add up to! - So far £1009 into the car, and this excludes some stuff I've bought and not needed.
To date I'm up to over 50 hours labour (my own time) too. at garage rate of £45/hr that would be a scary £2250.

Of course I'm doing this just for fun.

DateDescriptionSourceCostTOTAL COST
18-Nov-20​
Civic EJ9 - Wayne B dearsIn Person
£2,300​
£3,309
Front Pads, Rear Pads, Blueprint filter included
19-Nov-20​
Sump BaffleEbay
£20​
21-Nov-20​
New GrilleEbay
£15.99​
Silver (VSM) Paint 400mlEbay
£10.99​
Handbrake Cable N/S/REbay
£49.15​
Shifter Bushing (Poly)Ebay
£8.99​
Skunk2 Rear Camber ArmsEbay
£62.50​
4x Honda WheelnutsEbay
£6.45​
Used DC2 BackboxEbay
£115.00​
22-Nov-20​
"Vtec DOHC" side decalsEbay
£3.00​
MB6 Engine Mount Cam SideEbay
£24.00​
DC2 Engine Mount RearEbay
£24.00​
Rocker Cover Gasket SetEbay
£7.75​
Facelift Bumper BlackEbay
£33.54​
23-Nov-20​
Steering Rack GatorEbay
£12.88​
25-Nov-20​
Bilt hamber Dynax UBEbay
£17.95​
27-Nov-20​
3rd and 4th Syncro (Carbon)Ebay
£30.00​
28-Nov-20​
10x 10mm Bumper ClipsEbay
£2.59​
29-Nov-20​
Radiator Bracket (Password)Ebay
£4.59​
30-Nov-20​
450lb 8" 2.25mm Diam SpringsTMR Supplies
£48.00​
01-Dec-20​
Number plate Front&RearDao Ltd
£27.96​
05-Dec-20​
10x Skirt ClipsEbay
£3.25​
10-Dec-20​
Autoweld Failsworth - Weld NSRCash
£100.00​
17-Dec-20​
Full B18C4 Gasket SetJapserviceparts
£105.98​
21-Dec-20​
Sheet Metal 1.2mmWickes
£15.39​
21-Dec-20​
Zinc Weld-Through Primer, UndersealToolstation
£19.47​
26-Dec-20​
Silver Hammerite PaintScrewfix
£7.99​
27-Dec-20​
Genuine Honda MTF3 2litresEbay
£19.80​
Millers Nanodrive CFS 5W40 SynEbay
£47.95​
VSM Silver Paint, High Build PrimerMotorcolours
£51.36​
28-Dec-20​
Gearbox Pilot BearingJapserviceparts
£14.03​
30-Dec-20​
x190 Body ClipsEbay
£9.99​
DC2 (UK Type) Catalytic ConverterEbay
£84.08​
03-Jan-21​
Front 2x Stabilizer Link armsEbay
£10.26​
Rear Wheel Bearing/HubEbay
£28.90​
Std Honda Camgears - EK9FB Marketplace
£15.00​
04-Jan-21​
Rear Wiper Arm & BladeEbay
£14.99​
£1,074​
Return (Sold)
27-Dec-20​
Stainless BackboxEbay
-£53​
27-Dec-20​
Engine MountsEbay
-£6.50​
27-Dec-20​
Beaks barEbay
-£5​
-£65​
 
New sump gasket fitted:-
(as well as windage tray and oil pickup being refitted. What was a surprise was the fitment of the girdle on B18C4)

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Easiest Oil Filter fitment ever with the engine on the bench:-

ACtC-3e0iCE3BUfybDEbXhmhBHmSBc9yNlgJwiune-Aq5lLAkWapRZmYVfcwTW7mmyVPbGGDcH_wxCvp-v1UmPY1TzQKpozyMG9DVIGQ2cjMelfNhva4hDlVDHgkFcOiSSydZZxTUYtthoD6ocrezijg_FpdEQ=w618-h823-no


Meanwhile a small patch needed above the driver side wheel arch liner. Here the wheel arch clip hole causes rust to spread, though it wasn't so bad really:-

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And a Dynax UB coating:-

ACtC-3edkVV4DoUzuRRwpzHsitpicFvVewucG0QdLbLlPG4c-AQ1qN3zW2Dkfgjok1D8dfuHNgO6ci5_9zDC0LAWCfOYUWHqrNP6uMSzp4mzdlkA44PLdRP-4U57Tfipaji1iMrVqDaZLH0oYgt5DKo1GAGJSQ=w1098-h823-no


I painted the top/rear of the front panel in silver hammerite and much of the engine back and under the front chassis legs in black while the engine was out.

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Engine ready to go back...

ACtC-3fO6AmzY_JDQD-nWHgG8_dtut8U9pJVpU1rGIO8hAk1uzwa9CDG1ijZ6rtSzqBeTheLKVOS_nOS52XHdq2q8oe5Gb2ZnNLDCH_3alXSmB4Ax2z_WZ4qPL-_YKh08fsWSP9pe0Knhp16xbI9eA_K2ZQ8lQ=w1098-h823-no


ACtC-3chC5DP-7CpPDCS27ekNJ61oEUqSBxyDwKTtCyDwfYFKz3y4evkkmYSujFQX2MBdPsHGHu4tBOGw_S-v3QGz9FMSbJp0dwTl0bwpKajqSBZElpMqbxFjrFUmO3XK3eL3kuJ-BZCp-z_skTvuwUFRGLcvw=w618-h823-no


The gearbox needs MTF to work optimally. The MTF3 has added calcium which helps the syncros function. 1.9 litres is needed.
Also for track work all oils are NOT equal. CFS works up to a higher temperature than 99% of oils and B-series can easily exceed 120C on track. It is bleeding expensive though!

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The engine fired up and ran fine as they always do. I did have some fun with the sensors - thrown by the loom having a knock sensor connector but no sensor being fitted and the loom not quite fitting the engine, it took extra thought to find the right locations especially for the few identical plugs.

So the engine had been making a whining noise when hot - I'd originally assumed it was the pilot bearing or a poor sump seal. Sadly the noise came back with both of those replaced. I knew also by this point the big end and main bearings were in good condition.
Struck me I should also check compression - these readings with the throttle closed:-

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ACtC-3e8Pt5A5lUnfqQqbcNJZnTL2zJEXdhsq9Ia5lirbS--GdbQJz9O0FJS_lhuHKRGIa4wMjTMnw4yoRrw6_6RToRHzCAPLwNy5L-vFx9gkHqZIvFWQ4gOkbO5FLykyqiRYq53c2dgwnDzQD3WBtrZKW60YA=w1098-h823-no

ACtC-3fHLRW8ci5y31zu95KETPhPrjbhqjd-1UtgesIlfUVvzlK8qfOjongwMksIuD6Oq0y3opp-W355TDXq5jnh6oKx5ibwMJxqLTRNdkM9C_Qe8K4nXht-pF_Q72aNDF2NkfCor91Z0ljfKHReA-1ybXBjmw=w618-h823-no

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All 14.7bar to 15bar. Great for a B18C4 - especially with a closed throttle.

I still had the noise to investigate.
I ran the engine and stopped it and quickly observed the aux pulley - the pulley stopped, then a second later the noise stopped. This meant the noise could not be related to rotation/bearings/rubbing. I suspected it must be to do with crankcase pressure.
I removed the cam cover breather hose - and found the noise would stop. With it replaced the noise returned!

That hose has a one way valve and it was fitted backwards!! Therefore the crank case was pressurising and the pressure was forcing its way past a seal, making the loud squeal. such an easy fix - and another inherited issue solved.

Next jobs on the list:-
  1. Fit DC2 (GB) catalytic converter
  2. Replace a rear wheel bearing -one of them is squeeking
  3. Sort paint on one of the plastic sill covers - very tatty
  4. Investigate a slight rattle from the rear end.


Meanwhile I degreased and painted the B16A1 from the start of the thread ready to sell:-

*
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Also because my Skoda Superb MOT expired, I've used the Civic to drive the 50 mile commute yesterday (and tomorrow) and loved it!!
 
Last edited:
Although some of that welding made my eyes bleed (welder by trade) its good to see your actually repairing where the rust is and getting this in a really nice state.

The BoM does add quickly, I stopped doing mine once I got the bill back for engine
 
Haha! I did have a lesson from a friend who is a welder - on the bench I can make it look ok, but not under a car.

I do get reasonable strength/penetration though.

If I had argon and 0.6mm wire it would help as half the issue is I add too much material. No better way to learn than to practice though!
 
Haha! I did have a lesson from a friend who is a welder - on the bench I can make it look ok, but not under a car.

I do get reasonable strength/penetration though.

If I had argon and 0.6mm wire it would help as half the issue is I add too much material. No better way to learn than to practice though!
some of it where you had it tacked in place looked really promissing weld wise.

Just keep to the same principle on the thin stuff. tacks next to tacks. move around the pannel too trying to to run a continuous line as that helps with distortion.

Honestly though, you'll be from where you are now to welding in a way most would not see any downsides with only a couple more hours practice.

Either way, your car and if your not trying to enter concourse competitions then it doesnt matter as long as you can enjoy it
 
Haha - one thing for sure is it will never win any concourse competitions!
Thanks for your comments - I've been enjoying it and will get neater with time I hope (as you suggest!). I'm not ready to go near the Porsche with the welder just yet - thankfully it doens't need it!
 
Had a bit of a top end oil leak from the end of the cam areas (dizzy end).

Changed the o-ring on the plug...

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And the Dizzy O-ring...

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Had bought a rear hub due to a squeek, but I removed it and it was smooth, but the rear calipers were binding due to rust under the pad springs, and on the driver side the caliper was stiff. Took out the piston and cleaned it up....

ACtC-3eH2PiXNJDSHM8ssvGEdJ2R9HoV5HQ5ZUnS23v_DCdbmsovrIW0rVlTVNog2VrIa8E75zr1pAB9GaQk_WMgNw259UyLStp7THFqWXgYjhSOgTl7YKTCm0p-4iOdHCRQgcfR93MWKKnEQiNKKqCfe39CKA=w704-h938-no


I noticed the oil was all draining back the the sump and sometimes a few seconds needed on a cold start for the oil light to extinguish.
This coul dbe nothing to do with traditional "oil pressure" issues as the light only needs 3psi. It meant the oil pump was having to prime every time. Level was high on the dipstick too.
I diagnosed it by pouring a little oil down the oil pump hex hole and starting cold - it primed immediately.
This meant the oil pump needed replacing - perhaps due to a sticky pressure relief valve or similar. There wasn't much wear inside it.

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Shiney brand new oil pump fitted and priming and drainback issues resolved. Quite a rare issue fixed.

ACtC-3fzwwaSVQ1PP13hqNSDrXUiSgcD9WZVwS_VmgZ5TJrX8iuYRqflDNrTjwRSoXOq4X08-m-pyHDLQbaBK2YlKF-N80l3kuEblJfrndBIHekK-qNPIt0nLnyVlEdc7CCb1RfqgmAjMQvP9MLL9d0YOIqxZw=w1251-h938-no


While in that wheelarch the first of the front droplinks was replaced. A grinder is nearly always needed for these buggers!!

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Not pictured but also completed:-
* DC2 new Cat fitted - the correct 17" length and 2" diameter out of the collector.
* About 10 lots of glue and sikaflex removed from rear plate recess and rear plate refitted more neatly.
* Grille and front bumper screwed together - kept pinging apart along the join, creating a small gap.
* N/S headlight adjuster (side to side) was snapped off and missing. I've thown a lot of money at this car and I'm trying to mimimise it, so I effectively made a replacement system for light adjustment from a highly modified bolt and a nut that was plastic welded in place. Pretty happy with the new parts - work like original but much stronger!


Next work:-
* Other droplink (Driver side)
* Repaint N/S sill cover
* Investigate horn and interior light issues
 
Last edited:
Mostly little bits of tinkering this weekend. (also forgot to mention sawing down the exhaust tip last week)
* Fitted O/S front droplink
* Topped up screenwash
* Fixed horn (earth was disconnected)
* Fixed interior light (boot light was missing and wires twisted together by some previous owner with no clue)
* Fitted new bulbs to dash for any blown
* Repaired and refitted the inner drivers wing mirror trim
* Touched up a few areas of paint - door edges, a scuff on rear bumper
* Silicone spray on rubbers to make opening doors easier
* Various screws missing replaced in dash and interior trim
* Washed it...

ACtC-3eOeY7R1XzjwX5LYCHMnM6Dv2CQyhuIq4qJIwb0wfdbUFNx54RbmWijuwO_i84VIF3uvQZpOMhjhhH7_1l1L_eRDnqoHlnC6c7FHpj7F7OQk6zTIwMhTv-kxk0aodPwDpruBrpkTQoOS5hZiBoB8obwnw=w578-h433-no


Discovered it has fully ORANGE sidelights. Photo doesn't really do the colour justice... (Illegal no doubt)

ACtC-3eOImOY77u5mv3AFqHyK4v0SHoSct-cKgVaiW2OEyxZZzi3ckQ3eZLHR4G8YU-JE4V98CN5j1tT_4-i6nmFTKbqtSuE57xrZBNYEkhPXSAfNaQ57TSD3pjFvQB5OB6uoDZap48By20Pih4ffro-1-9htg=w325-h433-no


Most interestingly I took a look at the brakes again at the rear as there was still squeeks. Turns out this is from the pads being too small and thus the pad springs touching the disk instead.

Odd problem and after some investigation I find the rear disks are 262mm (ie EK9/DC2 size) but with EK4 rear calipers and 4x100 hubs. These may be MG disks then? Quite odd.

Have ordered some DC2 pads which should solve it.

Also found some damage to the rear hub carrier where someone had ground off a bolt and slit the metalwork. Will be getting the welder out to sort this. The bolt was non 8.8 and bent, so also replaced this.

Also found a speaker connector was loose and rattling so sorted that.

Got a stereo adaptor cable on order alongside the brake pads and some new fuses as I'm getting short!
 
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Few bits done last weekend.

Mentioned before that the brake pads on the rear were too small. Here is the fitted pad (left) against replacement DC2 sized pad.

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Naturally it wasn't just so easy. Since the caliper is EK4 which uses thinner pads it wouldn't take the deeper material on the DC2 ones and I had to shave them a little with a file.

Its now sweeping the whole disk which is great as the springs aren't rubbing/squeaking.
Also welded up the small slot in the hub carrier at the same time.

The paint was iffy on the N/S Plastic sill cover, so tool this off and painted it to sort that out.

Also got a stereo fitted - mostly to close off a hole.

The horn wasn't working and after removing and testing it found the issue was the ground to the switch was missing. Got this connected up. :)

Sidelight bulbs have been switched to legal white ones. Washer jets at the front cleaned out and re-aimed - all four quirt right and the glass now!

Finally I attached the ASR brace and LCAs with a can of black "Underbody Protection" to in effect de-purple them.

So we have a Before and After shot:-

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I'd say I'm about 100x less likely to be "randomly" stopped by a traffic cop now.

You can see I've touched up a scuff on the bumper and refitted a rear wiper, fitted a legal plate, removed the pointless Beaks bar, removed the stupid Jap can, and removed a load of sticker s(out of sight) between these two shots.

This shot shows the fitted stereo - and also a "Mugen" horn center I got hold of just to fill the gap.

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Lastly, another rear shot just for fun...

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Civic's MOT booked tomorrow!!
 
Civic passed its MOT.

Afterwards used the ramps we had at work to weld on an exhaust hanger. It didn't have hangers at all except on the back box when I got it - it now has a full set.


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Did a couple of other bits.
It was annoying me that the Blueprint filter wasn't a Honda or Hamp one, so got hold of a new Hamp oil filter and fitted that.

The RTA bushes are not bad by any means - probably didn't need changing but they are so important to the handling of these cars that I wanted fresh ones.

Have bought a proper tool on Ebay; its on its way.

Started taking driver side arm apart so its ready for the tool. Interestingly with the Skunk2 LCAs/camber arms you can't pull the RTA down, so I've totally removed it except for the handbrake cable holding it in place. Its still farrrr from being a difficult job.

In the next photo you can see I've started scraping old paint and underseal off witht he improved access of having the arm dropped. This will be getting the Zinc primer/black paint/Bilt Hamber UB rustproofing treatment.

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