K Swap Rebuild EK


that_civic said:
Main reason was the wheel choice, all I could find was Rotas in 4x100 and I want to move away from fake wheels now. On my setup even with brand new Nissin calipers they seemed to bind even with the handbrake slackened, looked into the disc widths between the MG and Honda and the MG are thicker, not sure if that had anything to do with it but only makes sense to me. But yeah the main reason was wheel choice more than anything. Got the SSR Hasemis now just need to figure out a colour for them to suit the wheel and the car, but that can wait as you can see I have a lot to do haha.

Thanks for the comment :))
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Hmmm I was looking to do the 4x100 front 282 and 262 rear. I hope your wrong about the binding as I've bought the front calipers already lol.

Am sure it will look great once you put the work in. Keep at it!
 
qasim said:
Hmmm I was looking to do the 4x100 front 282 and 262 rear. I hope your wrong about the binding as I've bought the front calipers already lol.

Am sure it will look great once you put the work in. Keep at it!
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Can always get Mtec discs, if you buy them directly from their site you can have them drilled to your stud pattern, I was using Pagid discs from Euro Car Parts and Nissin pads. When I got the new calipers on I wound the pistons back a few times and it never stopped binding. No idea why it was doing that for me, not sure if anyone else has noticed or had this issue but I did.
 
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I couldn't resist. Started taking bits off the K24, the stuff I don't need like inlet, injectors, rail, manifolds, all that will be bined if they don't get sold on eBay within a week.

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Still tackling the bay but It's almost finished, also started the chassis legs where most of the rust is, there's a rusted hole in the floor from a bad repair when I accidentally put the screwdriver through a few years back taking out the sound deadening.

We are getting there, slowly.
 
Pulling unwanted bits off
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Had an issue with the K20a2 vtec solinoid, bolt heads were rotten as you can see. k24 left k20 right
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So I had smash smaller sockets on the head to get them moving, eventually after a lot of banging around I managed to get it moving and off, swapped the k24 one over to the k20 since there is no difference in them.
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The k20 head is pretty bad condition wise, seems it's been sat for a long time.
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So whilst I had the wire wheel and drill attachment out from doing the shell I thought i'd clean it up a little bit and was left with this
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My only other issue with the head is, the guy took it apart and had everything lying around and during moving it around all the rocker assembly has come apart so I need a breakdown diagram to figure out where everything goes. All the little metal bits and springs for the rocker assembly are lying around on the floor and I have no idea if anything is lost either. Not sure if I can buy new either so a little advice would help me out.
 
I would advise sending the head for a proper clean especially if you've been wire brushing, all that dust floating about the place, get it checked for flatness and stem seals done
 
b16 mini said:
I would advise sending the head for a proper clean especially if you've been wire brushing, all that dust floating about the place, get it checked for flatness and stem seals done
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It will be, it will be hot tanked and pressure tested before I start spending any money on it, without being sat in a dirty unit for ages and no history with it I want to make sure it is healthy.
 
The Honda Bond on the sump was no joke, took a lot of effort to get the sump free.
 
Loving the updates, so the plan will be k20 head and k24 bottom end?

If your looking for swap parts, I think h tune have 10% off at the moment on k tuned products!
 
qasim said:
Loving the updates, so the plan will be k20 head and k24 bottom end?

If your looking for swap parts, I think h tune have 10% off at the moment on k tuned products!
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That's right. I saw, not sure what I need just yet so can put out until their next sale, they've always got a sale on anyways. Trying to concentrate on the body for now, the engine will be stripped down and left for a while, only bought the engine now because of it's mileage and the price was reasonable, also it was local so couldn't pass it up.
 
Very true, sale will come back, best to buy stuff when you require it.

Ahhhh I see, you keeping it NA
 
qasim said:
Very true, sale will come back, best to buy stuff when you require it.

Ahhhh I see, you keeping it NA
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Yeah, I feel Hondas should be N/A, in my opinion anyways. Can't beat the sound also aiming for 300hp which will be plenty quick enough.
 
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