Best engine mounts


They have too much flex when running big power/torque, also I could get rid of both torque mounts when using the uprated ones which is nice from a space and weight saving point of view.
more flex more smooth ride( for street use)
 
Done abit of research and ive read that if you change all engine mounts to hard rubber or poly but keep the rear engine mount oem you dont feel the vibration that much as that one is obvs closest to the dashboard. Has anyone on here tried that install before?

Also how much is a rear engine mount from Honda?
 
The rear engine mount is a torque mount though, the two big ones either side support the weight of the drive train. You may get a lot of 'rock' on the engine with a standard mount, I know I did when the car was NA nevermind boosted.
 
So your conclusion is to go all out?

Do you have a video of how bad the vibration is it idle and boost?
 
Personally I would, fit and forget then. It's a link to a trackday video as it's the only thing to hand atm...
 
watching that doesnt look so bad as your going all out! How fast were you going?

I dont really so track days. How is the car if you were say wanted to go for a cruise or use it for shopping say? Would it shake your passenger to death lol
 
Top speed maybe 145'ish down the back straight.

I go out for a drive in nice weather or to shows etc, my CD played doesn't jump with them in lol! But they're not nice, I wouldn't like them if I had to use it every day for shopping or work etc.
 
Looks like hardworks is it! Its in between OEM and Innovative.

Thanks for your input Matt
 
Sounds like a good option for your application. No worries, its what forums are for:))
 
So another thought. If i get the two top ones left and right from Honda as they hold the engine and get the front two lower and rear poly which are the torque mounts so get most abuse wouldnt that be better? hmmmm
 
My 2 cents... The three mounts you talked about ( both front lowers and the rear) are what I perceive as the torque mounts. They are the mounts that receive most of the torque as the engine flexes up while your big toe is tickling the radiator cap. I believe they are a very important area to focus on when trying to lessen engine movement. If you swap those mounts with stiffer units, you will get good performance feed back but a lot of vibration. Nature of the beast as those mounts are 'torque limiting mounts'... I went the opposite route on my current build. I installed a "engine dampener" on the left upper location where the fluid filled mount is. I found that helped a ton with no new vibration what so ever, but it felt uneven from the other side during hard launches. And doing burn outs still caused more wheel hop than I wanted. I then Installed a Hasport 88A mount in the right upper location (transmission upper). There was finally some vibration, but not as bad as a complete set of Hasports, or any kind of mount insert kit. Wheel hop was almost eliminated (most of the issue is left in my cheap tires now). I ordered a 66A mount from Hasport to see if I can get the same results but with less vibration. Kind of experimenting with mounts and I'll let you know when I get them. Trying to leave the torque mounts stock so I can still go on long coastal drives and not have my hands go numb from the vibration.
I am not boosted however, current set up is a fairly stock B18C1. I would imagine the safer approach to strap your engine down would be to follow what the guys were talking about earlier in this thread. More power means more chance of ripping mounts out and denting hoods or breaking exhaust welds.
I couldn't imagine running boost on the stock EK mounts. When I swapped in My B18C1, it felt like it was being held down with rubber bands. And this was with all new factory mounts. My bad, wont waste that money again haha.
 
Ok great. Aint 88a too much? Thats like drag racing right? Why not 70 or 62a?

Also why Hasport and not Innovative?
 
I had a mutual friend that had Innovative mounts- they self destructed with in 6 months. That left a taste in my mouth after seeing that. I have never seen or heard of a Hasport mount failing yet.
I have a bud who boosts his B18C1 and makes 600 hp. He ran the Energy Suspension mount inserts for many years with no problems.
If you have high power goals, you'll need stronger mounts to stop your engine from ripping out of its resting place.
I just received the 66A at the door step. I'll install it tomorrow and through my experiences.
 
Another question. I want to freshen up certain parts in the engine bay and have seen The nuts and bolts that connect the engine mounts to the gearbox are rusted so if i replace them with brand new stainless steel ones would that be good. would they be strong enough to hold the engine/gearbox.? Reason im asking is the oem nuts/bolts have rust on them so they are strong steel so would stainless or zinc covered ones be as strong?
 
Got a chance to install the upper right Hasport 66A mount to counter balance the Ingalls 'Stiffy' engine dampener I have on the upper left mount. The vibrations aren't much more than stock, but gear engagement feedback tells me its staying in a much more neutral location. Super stoked thus far about the combo. I'll give the set up some stress at the next race and see whats what.


Another question. I want to freshen up certain parts in the engine bay and have seen The nuts and bolts that connect the engine mounts to the gearbox are rusted so if i replace them with brand new stainless steel ones would that be good. would they be strong enough to hold the engine/gearbox.? Reason im asking is the oem nuts/bolts have rust on them so they are strong steel so would stainless or zinc covered ones be as strong?
The idea of "pay me now, or pay me later" when coming in contact to rusty bolts always tends to stand true. Better to deal with them now than wait for the cancer to get worse. But if its only surface rust, then its 'ok' but industry standards, and there is no mechanical reason to replace them. You got pics?
 
Surface rust. ill just clean them up. Also had a good look round and the previous owner kept the top 2 mounts oem, the rear mount standard and only changed the front. bottom 2 to poly inserts and tbh its very good with littles vibes and no engine movement.

Since it drives nice ill keep that setup except im going to put brand new oem mounts and change the front lower torque mounts to Hasport billet ones as they are a good company that specialises in Honda mounts and see how it goes. By the way the oem mounts on it are the same one from 98 so they held up very good with 390 bhp so ill just put brand new ones.
 
Sounds like a solid plan. So you know, solid billet mounts will shake your fillings loose from your teeth.
I too may need to go with inserts on my lower two for better wheel hop control.
 
You should change the 3 main mounts to a level up to street upgrade. Innovative mounts are more than adequate. The 2 little ones on the front sides can be left OEM :)
 
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