K20 costing and requirements


simon_32

Pre-Facelift EK9
Joined
Apr 17, 2011
Messages
543
I’ve been considering replacement of my B16b with a K20. I’ve heard many conversations and prices thrown about, but can anyone tell me or give me a definitive list of what is required other than a K20 motor and gearbox? Also, is it a task an amateur mechanic can complete, or am I best asking the professionals for a quote?
 
I would attempt it myself but i am mechanically minded, google ktuned
 
Make the most of your b16b I say that's what I'm planning , by the time you falked out for the swap say £6000 are you not just better off selling your 9 and just buying a faster car :-/ ... May be it's my age lol
 
Thanks for the link Mike, but a need a breakdown of the parts required.

I think the ek9 has such a good chassis, but the B16b needs working so hard to preform. It would just be nice to have more lower down torque and more power, plus a 6th gear for economy.
 
This had been covered so many times

You need motor and box and engine loom
Ecu
Conversion harness
Shafts
Fuel pressure reg + lines
Exhaust manifold
Engine mounts
Clutch line
Shifter box + plate + cables
Rad hoses , fan switch, temp sender


Not hard if you can change a clutch you can do this
 
Also Immob delete if UK EP3 ECU

How does the power steering work if you use a K20A2 engine? use a DC5 PS unit?

OEM DC5 radiator and hoses fit in right?

how do heater matrix hoses connect in?
 
This had been covered so many times

You need motor and box and engine loom
Ecu
Conversion harness
Shafts
Fuel pressure reg + lines
Exhaust manifold
Engine mounts
Clutch line
Shifter box + plate + cables
Rad hoses , fan switch, temp sender


Not hard if you can change a clutch you can do this

As above, you will also need:

ITR DC2 subframe and lower arms

And im sure it goes without sayin, youll want to upgrade your brakes. lol:)
 
Oh yea, good point. :))

OP, buy Ekk2 mounts. Apparently much better fitment. :nice:

Agreed !!!
It's harder on the hood, you will need to cut almost all reinforcements, but the sump lays a LOT higher than EKK1. My sump on a K24 EK is almost at the OEM B16 sump height, so if you want to ride slammed, EKK2 is your best choice.
 
That ebay link above has ekk2 mounts, ITR DC2 subframe, ITR steering rack, Anti roll bar, EG suspension knuckels too which is needed.
 
you do not need to cut out all under bonnet framing, possibly with the taller K24, but with the k20 on EKK2 mounts, just need to trim the bonnet for clearance above the brake boosted vac hose if you are using a RBC/RRC inlet

it's a straight forward swap, although it is as expensive as most say, especially when you consider the "essential" bolt on's

- diff and cost of fitting (if using anything other than a JDM box)
- different intake manifold (RBC/RRC)
- k100/kpro & tuning

for the person above who stated "why not fit a B20", you have obviously never been in a kswap car with good bolt on's

k20 swap is very fast, but most of all it's a much more pleasant drive, more modern engine is alot smoother, idles and sounds better etc

even on a base map right now, my K20 with 5.1FD is faster than my old 243bhp hi comp B18 with ATS gearset
 
big time!

the B18 was ace, but it didn't like low revs, or cold starts, etc etc. pulling 9600rpm in it was quite a rush though and sounded epic haha

K20 is effortless to drive! k-tuned shifter/HR cables gives that sharp knotchy feel you would expect from rod change and even though i've only had a couple blasts up through vtec it is mega quick!!

shame it costs so much, but if you are seriously looking for good reliable power in an EK9 chassis it is certainly the way to go :D
 
How much extra does a JDM engine/box command over a UK one, out of interest?
 
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